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Geno's Plugs
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I like the lever type. It makes sampling for oil analysis very easy. Just my $0. 02
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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran off into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran off into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
Ranger,
Just received my lever type drain valve from Geno's today
#ad
It is well made and the lever has a nice positive lock. It shouldn't be any lower than 1" below the pan when installed. I opted for this type because I didn't want to mess around with a drain tube.
Wish I had this at my first oil change
#ad
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2000 DODGE RAM, 2500 HD, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab (135” WB), Forest Green, Agate interior, 5. 9L 24V Cummins Diesel, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin
DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
After-market: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Liquid Glass
Just received my lever type drain valve from Geno's today
#adIt is well made and the lever has a nice positive lock. It shouldn't be any lower than 1" below the pan when installed. I opted for this type because I didn't want to mess around with a drain tube.
Wish I had this at my first oil change
#ad------------------
2000 DODGE RAM, 2500 HD, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab (135” WB), Forest Green, Agate interior, 5. 9L 24V Cummins Diesel, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin
DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
After-market: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Liquid Glass
Last edited by a moderator:
I've got the other one - the one with the tube. I love it. The tube hangs right down into my drain bucket and there's no chance that the oil is going anywhere but in the bucket.
It's great.
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99 2500 QC LB 4x4 Auto, Laramie SLT, driftwood. Cummins 24v w/ 275 HP injectors & Banks Stinger Plus kit, EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar mount, Prime-Location fuel filter kit, MagHytec Diff and Trans covers, EZ Change oil drain plug, BFG 33x12. 50x16. 50, Procomp 2” stage II lift-kit, Rhino liner, Smittybilt nerf bars, Warn chrome Transformer brush guard w/Warn12000 winch, Tow Hooks, Xenon fender flares & Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter. DTT's Valve Body & Torque Converter.
It's great.
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99 2500 QC LB 4x4 Auto, Laramie SLT, driftwood. Cummins 24v w/ 275 HP injectors & Banks Stinger Plus kit, EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar mount, Prime-Location fuel filter kit, MagHytec Diff and Trans covers, EZ Change oil drain plug, BFG 33x12. 50x16. 50, Procomp 2” stage II lift-kit, Rhino liner, Smittybilt nerf bars, Warn chrome Transformer brush guard w/Warn12000 winch, Tow Hooks, Xenon fender flares & Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter. DTT's Valve Body & Torque Converter.
I have the "EZ-Drain," which uses the tube. Screwing the tube on takes about two seconds and eliminates splashing oil. I store it in a plastic freezer bag in my tool box behind the cab. No muss, no fuss.
The two things that would worry me about the other "fingertip" valve type device would be that: A) It might be popped open when driving through tall, woody-stemmed brush, during off-road hunting, etc. Or, B) It'd would be easy for somebody to intentionally flip it open as as a prank, or an act of vandalism.
I've never seen one of these, so I could be very wrong about the chance of either type of inadvertent drain release happening. But the EZ-Drain is very secure, and fits flush with the bottom of the pan, similar to the original drain plug.
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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.
The two things that would worry me about the other "fingertip" valve type device would be that: A) It might be popped open when driving through tall, woody-stemmed brush, during off-road hunting, etc. Or, B) It'd would be easy for somebody to intentionally flip it open as as a prank, or an act of vandalism.
I've never seen one of these, so I could be very wrong about the chance of either type of inadvertent drain release happening. But the EZ-Drain is very secure, and fits flush with the bottom of the pan, similar to the original drain plug.
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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.
I too am a tuber, Really nice to just screw in the fitting and drop the oil. I retained a few empty gallon oil bottles and it drop it right into there. Really uncomplicates an oil change. Someone I know had a person (if that's what he calls himself) open up the lever-drain unit at a truck show recently and he started his truck that night and the oil pressure didn't come on. 
#ad
He shut 'er off immediately and shined his light under the truck in the dark to only see the sand he was parked on was black. Thank heavens an oil vendor was still packing up at the time.
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1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc.
#adHe shut 'er off immediately and shined his light under the truck in the dark to only see the sand he was parked on was black. Thank heavens an oil vendor was still packing up at the time.
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1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc.
Sasquatch,
Were did you get the EZ-drain from.
Thanks,
Paul
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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps
Were did you get the EZ-drain from.
Thanks,
Paul
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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps
I have the Fumoto Valve (Lever type). It hang down about 3/4 of an inch, but is protected by the front differential. The lever has a very positive lock and out of the way. The only way it will open is if someone opens it.
The threads for the oil plug on the oil pan on my Ram have a baffle between the threads and the bottom of the pan. I assume that it is designed like this so all the oil will drain out. Seeing this I drilled 4, 3/16 holes just above the gasket on the Fumoto valve to enable the oil to completely drain through the baffles and out of the pan.
No more oil everywhere you don't want it and clean hands to top it off!
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<font color=blue>WHITE OBSESSION" 99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's LSD, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps with Stainless Cummins "C" add to rear flaps, Valentine One, Uniden PC78LTW CB, Hadley Bully Air Horns, Power Edge, Psychotty Air Induction, Braided SS Fuel Lines, 4" Jardine Exhaust (Love the deep throaty sound), 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's. </font>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9265455" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My 99 Dodge Cummins</A></font>
<font color=purple>
Things to come; The clutch has let me know it is going to need attention very soon!
Pyro, Boost and Fuel Pressure gauges, PE timing module and injectors.
NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)<font size=-2>
[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 11-03-2000). ]
The threads for the oil plug on the oil pan on my Ram have a baffle between the threads and the bottom of the pan. I assume that it is designed like this so all the oil will drain out. Seeing this I drilled 4, 3/16 holes just above the gasket on the Fumoto valve to enable the oil to completely drain through the baffles and out of the pan.
No more oil everywhere you don't want it and clean hands to top it off!
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<font color=blue>WHITE OBSESSION" 99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's LSD, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps with Stainless Cummins "C" add to rear flaps, Valentine One, Uniden PC78LTW CB, Hadley Bully Air Horns, Power Edge, Psychotty Air Induction, Braided SS Fuel Lines, 4" Jardine Exhaust (Love the deep throaty sound), 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's. </font>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9265455" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My 99 Dodge Cummins</A></font>
<font color=purple>
Things to come; The clutch has let me know it is going to need attention very soon!
Pyro, Boost and Fuel Pressure gauges, PE timing module and injectors.
NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)<font size=-2>
[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 11-03-2000). ]
Big Bob - I have the Fumoto and am just waiting to install. I've been thinking about taking a hacksaw and cutting down thru the threads just to the top of the drain hole. Any thoughts?
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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"
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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"
tlippy:
Don't mean to butt-in, but I wouldn't use the hacksaw approach. If you go that route you might weaken the fastener itself. Also, you'll do a lot more damage to the threads the whole length of their bearing surface. Seems like the drilling holes method would be safer and just as effective.
Don't mean to butt-in, but I wouldn't use the hacksaw approach. If you go that route you might weaken the fastener itself. Also, you'll do a lot more damage to the threads the whole length of their bearing surface. Seems like the drilling holes method would be safer and just as effective.
Ranger Dick, Sasquatch and DieselB59,
The EZ Drain is a derivative of a drain valve commonly used in the turbine engine and rotary wing industry. It is a very effective method of draining engine and gearbox oil. However, the EZ-Drain lacks a plug to protect against the elements when the drain tube is not installed.
The aerospace industry fills this with a chip detector or combination chip detector/oil temperature sensor. I worry about the accumulation of road grim/debris over an extended period.
If you worry about some BONEHEAD messing with the drain valve, drill a #40 hole at the end of the handle and safety wire the handle to the valve.
I was not going to install my drain valve with a safety wire hole, but I will and post an image to this forum so all can see.
The EZ Drain is a derivative of a drain valve commonly used in the turbine engine and rotary wing industry. It is a very effective method of draining engine and gearbox oil. However, the EZ-Drain lacks a plug to protect against the elements when the drain tube is not installed.
The aerospace industry fills this with a chip detector or combination chip detector/oil temperature sensor. I worry about the accumulation of road grim/debris over an extended period.
If you worry about some BONEHEAD messing with the drain valve, drill a #40 hole at the end of the handle and safety wire the handle to the valve.
I was not going to install my drain valve with a safety wire hole, but I will and post an image to this forum so all can see.
tlippy,
The Futomo valve is the same valve that Geno calls "Finger Touch Engine Oil Drain Valve".
www.fumotovalve.com
I secured the Futomo valve in a vise, then used a center punch to make a starting point about 1/8" from the surface of the gasket for the drill bit (3/16). The gasket and flange seal the plug from leaking. I drilled straight through the valve and out the other side, then repeated again so I have 4 holes, 90 degrees apart. A drill press would have worked great but mine is at a friends house so I just used a cordless drill. The holes are close enough to the gasket and flange, that they don't interfere with the treads for the drain plug because the threads are above the baffle at the bottom of the pan. I filed and deburred the holes, cleaned the valve throughly and installed it.
No leaks, drains completely and works great! No more oil all over my hands!
Hope this helps, Big Bob<font size=-2>
[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 11-04-2000). ]
The Futomo valve is the same valve that Geno calls "Finger Touch Engine Oil Drain Valve".
www.fumotovalve.com
I secured the Futomo valve in a vise, then used a center punch to make a starting point about 1/8" from the surface of the gasket for the drill bit (3/16). The gasket and flange seal the plug from leaking. I drilled straight through the valve and out the other side, then repeated again so I have 4 holes, 90 degrees apart. A drill press would have worked great but mine is at a friends house so I just used a cordless drill. The holes are close enough to the gasket and flange, that they don't interfere with the treads for the drain plug because the threads are above the baffle at the bottom of the pan. I filed and deburred the holes, cleaned the valve throughly and installed it.
No leaks, drains completely and works great! No more oil all over my hands!
Hope this helps, Big Bob<font size=-2>
[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 11-04-2000). ]
BigDaddy wrote:
"... However, the EZ-Drain lacks a plug to protect against the elements when the drain tube is not installed... "
Not sure what you mean by the above, to be honest with you.
"When the drain tube is not installed," there is a heavy, threaded, brass cap which is fitted with a rubber "O" ring that you are supposed to screw onto the bottom of the threaded valve stem; there is no way for contaminants to get in -- no need to "... worry about the accumulation of road grime/debris over an extended period... "
It won't/can't happen!#ad
"... However, the EZ-Drain lacks a plug to protect against the elements when the drain tube is not installed... "
Not sure what you mean by the above, to be honest with you.
"When the drain tube is not installed," there is a heavy, threaded, brass cap which is fitted with a rubber "O" ring that you are supposed to screw onto the bottom of the threaded valve stem; there is no way for contaminants to get in -- no need to "... worry about the accumulation of road grime/debris over an extended period... "
It won't/can't happen!
#adSasquatch,
Didn't know it had a cap/plug. I have not seen any pics showing it. Your right, "It won't/can't happen!#ad
Here is Geno's Engine oil drain valve safety wired closed. I used a #50 drill and . 032" dia. stainless steel wire. If you don't have a #50, a #40 will do just as good and any old wire. Don't forget to center punch proir to drilling.
#ad
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2000 DODGE RAM, 2500 HD, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab (135” WB), Forest Green, Agate interior, 5. 9L 24V Cummins Diesel, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin
DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
After-market: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Liquid Glass
Didn't know it had a cap/plug. I have not seen any pics showing it. Your right, "It won't/can't happen!
#adHere is Geno's Engine oil drain valve safety wired closed. I used a #50 drill and . 032" dia. stainless steel wire. If you don't have a #50, a #40 will do just as good and any old wire. Don't forget to center punch proir to drilling.
#ad------------------
2000 DODGE RAM, 2500 HD, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab (135” WB), Forest Green, Agate interior, 5. 9L 24V Cummins Diesel, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin
DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
After-market: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Liquid Glass
Last edited by a moderator:
Another fine product made better by the supreme intelligence of the fellow members of the TDR. #ad
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Chris
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc. Test mule for Auto Wurks race program
#ad------------------
Chris
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc. Test mule for Auto Wurks race program
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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