Getting bombed Tues

[RedRamer]

Finally got the local Cummins dealer to set me up for a plate to bump it to about 245 hp along with a pyro.

Question: He is suggesting I put in a K&N filter, same type that fits in the box. It looks the same as a Fleetguard.

Should I got with K&N or stick with Fleetguard filters?

Thanks

 

[Cooker]

The K+N debate has been talked over a thousand times. You might want to try a search. Trust me, you will be reading for a long time.



Persoanlly I don't like reusable air filters. I'd say stick with the Fleetguard filter. You might consider the BHAF - Fleetguard AH19037. Do a search on this and you will get a ton of results as well.

 

[QRTRHRS]

My first aftermarket air filter venture was the K&N replacement for stock. I noticed no difference. Second came the "Pyscotty" with the K&N880. Big difference. Nice drop in EGT's. Then on to the BHAF with a further drop in EGT's. BHAF gets my thumb's up.

 

[HerbW]

Message for Goober

I installed the plate and gauges in my own truck for a reasonable price. You can buy from Piers all these parts, at a discount if you're a TDR member, and with the instructions it went in quick. Just my two cents. Piers is in Canada also! I installed a TST #8 plate that is rated at 230 hp and 605 ft lbs of torque. I don't down shift to climb hills anymore, instead I just go up them. It's awesome! I have the same engine/transmission/gears as you have and I also installed boost gauge, pyro gauge and transmission gauge in an triple pillar. You'll be surprised at temps you can get into with your auto transmission if you're lugging up an old hunting trail. Good luck, Herb

 

[RedRamer]

I cancelled the K&N and looking into the BHAF. Noise was a factor, but this oil stuff and servicing of it is not what I want. One conceren I got with the BHAF is snow, wondering if it gets plugged or what.

HerbW - Did you do anything to your stock transmission after/before dropping in the plate. I'm guessing you pull something. What kind of weights?

thanks

 

[HerbW]

Message to Goober

Goober,

No, my transmission is still stock. I did at the same time as the upgrade(in the transmission), a new filter, oil and adjusted the bands. I would like to rebuild the transmission sometime to DTT specs, but I don't pull weight too often. I have a 1996 19. 5 ft Layton trailer that has a GVW of 6,000 lbs. that is towed about twice a year and a utility trailer that is even lighter. I let my transmission go through all the shifting and never give it any petal until I'm at my higher gear. I pull my trailer in "OD" when I'm on the flatland and in "drive" while in the hills. I was told that "OD" is bad to use when going over mountains with loads due to the planetary gears in use. I've so far gone over any hills I've came to without going "wide open throttle". I'm afraid to push the transmission to hard going up the hills even though the power is there. I've never felt yet any slippage in the transmission other that slow lugging up a very steep gravel road in 1st gear where I should of been in low range already anyway. Let me know what you end up doing. Herb

 

[RedRamer]

I think what I'll do is tune up the transmission before I get too far ahead. It works good now but I think with BKondolays VB and adjustments, it'll run better and last longer. Bill mentioned something about a resitor required because when with pump cranked up, the TPS gets confused because the pedal don't have to go as far for the sames speeds and it confuses the shifting.

My TC clutch locks up good. I pull a 6k lb billboard and it has never slipped. I guess with trany pressures at max, it should stay there after I crank up the pump. I liie to stay locked up in OD when crusin and 3rd if I'm takling a hill.

Like you said, if you don't hammer down and use the power prudently, it should never slip the clutch.

I just want to be able to cruise over the good hills without having to torque the transmission in OD at 1,500 rpm, cause that's where I end up partway up the those hills. If they get steeper, then I have to drop down to 3rd lockup.

I should be able to top those hills at 1,750 - 2k rpm (100-105 kph) without slipping the clutch. I mean hell, that clutch should hold 6k lbs as it does now when I go flat out into 3rd lockeup.

It's a lot of momney and fooling around just to get what I think is about another 20% more torque to keep me crusing over the hills.

Right now i'm puttin in the pyro. I'll have to read where it goes as I think I'm better off with it after the turbo. some say if the prod breaks up, it might take the turbo with it.

will let you know.

 

[Cooker]

True if the probe breaks it might take the turbo with it, but for more revelant numbers the probe must go pre-turbo. With all the TDR members with pre-turbo pyro probes, I have yet to read of one probe failure on a CTD.



It's your truck, so you need to do what you feel comfortable with. Either pre/post is better than no pyro at all.



Just my $. 02,

Ryan

 

[HerbW]

I agree with the cooker!!!

I agree with Cooker that pre turbo is best. I wrestled with the post and pre install of the pyrometer sender. I finally settled for the pre turbo. I'm glad I went that way as it is very quick to get readings and with the new senders, you need to tap only 1/8 in. pipe plug hole. Pretty small hole to put in the manifold. If you screw up, you can drill a second time and use a larger sender or spacer. This is true also for post turbo and there is a fine looking cast boss that can be tapped in the post elbow. I wonder if the sender goes bad it seems like your reading would go flat and give you time to pull out the sender before it goes through the turbo. If my pyrometer reading go flat, I'm pulling the sender pronto and maybe save a trip through Mr. Turbo. Good luck, Herb

 

[radixr]

Pyrometer location

If you locate your pyrometer post-turbo (in the elbow), and you have an exhaust brake there, be sure to check that the exhaust brake flapper does not hit the pyrometer when it closes and opens.