Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Getting P7100 calibrated

[Dave Remillard]

Over time I have read comments about these pumps needing calibration. I'm @ 125K and feel that I may be a candidate for getting this done. Can anyone recommend a shop in the Portland, Oregon area? I'm sure the pros out weigh the cons (if any), but can anyone elaborate some on what can be expected and maybe a feel for what the cost would be to do this? I live within a days drive of Piers location, and he is probably the best choice for this, but if I can get it done closer to home and get the same quality of work, it sure would simplify things for me. Thanks for any ideas any of you have.

 

[bighammer]

Are you having any particular problems with the truck? If it's running well I don't think messing with it would be worthwhile except your timing could be bumped up in the process.



If you like wrenching and saving $$$, removing it and taking just the pump might save you some green. I don't know what the cost of checking it out would be. Of course it would depend on what it needed. (if anything)

 

[Dave Remillard]

It runs OK, but I still have some issues with getting GSK and AFC kit and all the little fine tune adjustments just right. I've done all I feel I can. I'm mainly going on what I've read. These pumps operate on adjustments in the thousanths, and after time need to be fine tuned and adjusted again. I'm hoping someone maybe has done this before and can offer coments on it's value. Most of my issues on how this truck runs is in the 1100 RPM area and down. Just doesn't seem to run as smooth as it should. Thanks bighammer for the reply.

 

[illflem]

Piers is best for fine tuning, but for a rebuild you can get it done closer.

One of the main pump rebuilders in the NW is in the Williamatte Valley, not exactly sure of the name but Oregon Fuel Injection Inc. rings a bell. Yellow pages will find them.

 

[Extreme1]

With the PDR parts in the pump, I'd remove it and send it to them for balancing. Expect it to cost somewhere in the $2-300 range but that's a guess based on what the local shop was going to charge me.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

After PDR got my old pump they spent just a tad bit of time on the bench with it knowing that it was just a little off at idle and got real good results out of that. They were surprised that I had that much fuel coming out of a stock 180 pump with just bolt on's, they did not rebuild it only a little tweak, My thought would be to send it to them, you will like the results.



Jim

 

[1dslram]

Jim is right send the pump to Piers it is worth it.

Bruce

 

[Dave Remillard]

Thanks for all the replies. I will look in the manual tonight when I get home to see what it takes to remove the pump. Does the pump need to be off the engine for the fine tuning to happen? I was toying with the idea of towing the Jeep up with me and take the wife to Vancouver BC while Piers did his magic. If the pump needs to be removed anyway, I might as well save that added expense and just send it to him. On a scale of 1 to 10, how difficult is removing the pump, and do I need special tools? The older I get, if it's a borderline frustrating job, I would just as soon not deal with it. Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

[JGK]

Six. Shooter,



Contact Wentland Diesel in Milton Freewater, just northeast of Pendleton about 30 miles. Talk to Richard. Unless they've changed their policy, you can even stand there and watch him calibrate it on the test stand (machine).



I'd bet if you left early, you could drive there early in the morning, have them do it and be back home that evening. I did it and I'm in Boise, ID.



You'll save a hundred or more R&R'ing the pump yourself if you can. I watched them R&R it on my truck. It takes them an hour more or less each way. There's a couple of tricky bolts, and you have to be able to essentially do the timing when you put it back on. Unless you're ready for that, probably better to just let them do it. I did, and I was still home by 8:00 PM.



Wentland's number is 800-822-3875.



-Jay

 

[illflem]

Take the whole rig to Piers since you're so close. More than likely it won't need to be removed anyway plus he can bump your timing up if it hasn't already been done.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Six. Shooter



It's your call on the pump on pulling it or letting Piers do it, pulling it is no big deal except for the timing, that is the only hard part (well there is the getting it out of the engine bay) other than that there are the lines, linkage, intake hat, air tube to the hat and 6 bolts but you will have to have a timing kit if you don't pin the pump at TDC.



Jim

 

[illflem]

You don't have to re-time it if you remove the gearcase cover and mark the cam and pump gears, then put it back in the same way.

 

[JGK]

FWIW: Richard at Wentland normally sets the timing on the pump and pins it. I'm sure this is a standard procedure. The guy R&R'ing the pump finds true TDC before pulling the pump. Then when the pump is bolted back on, everything is where it should be to just bolt it together (other than perhaps rotating the engine a bit to take out gear lash before setting the gear on the pump's tapered shaft).



For true callibration of the pump, I'm not sure it can be done on the engine. On the test stand, the pump is run at various speeds and each plunger is adjusted so the amount of fuel each is putting out is the same (within Bosch's tolerances). Richard got mine so close the differences was under half the tolerance range, or there abouts.



The beauty of going to Piers is you could have any number of other custom mods/adjustments done at the same time by one of the best. Just be prepared to willingly hand over gobs of $! Resistance is futile.



-Jay