Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) getting ready to tab the kdp on my new 94

[shendren]

bought another ctd. 1994 for hauling my concrete pumps. dually. 4x4. need to do the 1st 2 things necessary. kdp and timing.



i need to know the size of the bolt needed to do the tab. i also need the washer. anyone sell both of these items? thanks. scott.

 

[Joe G.]

E-mail me at -- email address removed --

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Srenden I recommend locktiting the timing case retaining bolts while you are in there per what Muddy was posting about. A bolt came out and did major carnage. So now recommendation is remove and locktite timing case bolts (not talking about the bolts for the cover of the timing case).



My '96 Ram with engine build date of May 25, 1996 does NOT have loctite from factory.



Dowel pin was out 1/8" at 353,000 miles.



Vaughn

 

[BV]

shendren - I bought both from Cummins NW in Portland. They cost about $2-3 for both. My 96 was out 3/16" (less then 89,000 miles) and a couple of case bolts were loose so I removed, cleaned and Loctite them. Sorry I don't have the Cummins part numbers (I'm at work) but they are available here if you do a search.



TST Products sells a kit also

 

[Nordby]

Any opinions on resealing that cover once the pin is dead? The TST kit comes with RTV Silicone, and the tech on the phone mentioned they have better luck using it, and no gasket at all.



Anyone gone the no gasket route and just used the silicone? Or perhaps use a light coating on the cover side and reseal with the gasket. I have the complete gasket set so I have a brand new one! New front seal too...



thanks, jon

 

[Big E]

I removed the old gasket and used RTV (Ultra Grey). So far no leaks



I went with the TST kit mainly for convenience. It had everything I needed (including the sealant) and a good set of instructions. Getting the fan bracket off was surprisingly easy. Since it was time to flush the coolant I also pulled the radiator out. That made things much easier also.



Just for the record, my pin had not moved and all the bolts were tight, but it's nice to know that there won't be any problems now.

 

[mechanic]

Any opinions on resealing that cover once the pin is dead? The TST kit comes with RTV Silicone, and the tech on the phone mentioned they have better luck using it, and no gasket at all.



Anyone gone the no gasket route and just used the silicone? Or perhaps use a light coating on the cover side and reseal with the gasket. I have the complete gasket set so I have a brand new one! New front seal too...



thanks, jon

I have done a lot of "no gasket RTV only" reassembly over the last 29 years. It works very well. However, when you have a bi-metalic situation as with the aluminum t/c and the steel cover (I believe the CTD covers are laminated steel), you get a differing expansion rates, and can sheer the RTV. Permatex has the Ultra Gray for this type application. However, that said, on mine I used a gasket from Cummins, and Permatex "The Right Stuff" to close it up, and not even a seep big enough to attract dust. This is the only RTV type sealer that I use unless the application requires high heat type RTV. Just wanted to add that when you install the front seal, if it is a teflon type seal lip, install it BONE DRY BOTH STAFT AND SEAL. This is very important. Also when you start installing it don't stop untill seated. If you stop the loc-tite will set and you may push the timing cover in (as in bend it in). How I learned that is classified. Start the seal on the crankshaft then remove the plastic guide and use the centering sleeve to drive it on in.



mechanic>>94 2500 2w/d auto lite mods.

 

[Nordby]

Thanks for these instructions mechanic - and the instructions I got from others on this site as well. The kdp tab went well. It was out 1/16", but not terribly loose. the 10mm bolts holding the gear housing were far from tight (18ft/lbs is spec, they were not half of that).



I pulled the cam and gear housing, resealed that with a new gasket, retorqued all gear housing bolts with thread lock, installed the cam (no real pits after 180K), put the P7100 back in and the power steering pump, and did the front seal dry like specified here. I used Permetex Ultra Gray and a new cummins gasket for the cover. I won't have a leak down test for a month or two, but at least made progress!



thanks for the help here,

jon