Getting ready to tap the pump wire - need advice

[gsdog1]

My sig is pretty much up to date. I got the bug bad to tap the wire with my Edge Drag Comp (purchased and installed thanks to JR Adkins). Considering the 35" tires, and the fact that I don't tow, will the stock clutch handle it??



What's the best way to tap the wire? I am really hesitent to use the Scotch tap. Should it be soldered or what?



Also, I am concerned about the VP44 based upon what I have seen and read here. Should I "condition" it with additives? I have a new LP (thanks to Scheid), but over 130k on the VP.



FWIW - will be upgrading the clutch in 6 weeks or so. I have a Wildcat max fuel flow system on order that is supposed to arrive any day as well.



Thanks!



Matt

 

[Rob Thomas]

The Blue Chip pump cover would be the easiest/best way to attach the wire, it replaces the stock VP cover, and has a terminal on the top to attach the wire. However, if you don't want to spend the money(about $50) or wait for it to be shipped, you can always solder it.



You will find out how the VP likes the new box in short order, there has been more than a few VP failiers with-in an hour after tapping the pump wire, so be fore-warned.



If you slip the clutch, just turn the box down, you can make it last for 6-weeks, if your foot let's you.





Rob

 

[gsdog1]

Rob:



Thanks for the info. Any diagnostic clues on how I might insure the integrity of the VP?



Where can I get the cover?



Matt

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The Scotch Lok works fine if you don't try to turn it on the wire after attaching it. I would use long needle nose pliers to close the lok and while still holding it, attach the wire terminal.

Begin adding power gradually over a period of a couple weeks and that will give the pump parts time to wear in. It might reduce the possibility of pump failure. Some have had very good luck with lots of added power. Many of the failures occured very soon after installation of the box, and using the box at a high setting right away.

 

[gsdog1]

Rob:



Thanks for the info. Where can I get the cover?



Matt

 

[Rob Thomas]

I don't reccomend the Scotch lok, being in IN (I assume salt in the winter?) corrosion will be a factor.





You can get the cover here... www.bluechipdiesel.com







Rob

 

[gsdog1]

I am pretty sure I will go with the Blue Chip Cover, and yes sir the road salt is phenominal in Indiana!



Guess I will take my luck with the VP - got over 130K on it and just put on a new LP, less than 5K on it. I have a Wildcat max fuel flow system on order that I will mate up to this when (??) it gets here!



Thanks for the replies, more information is always appreciated!



Matt

Oo.

 

[Rman]

The TST grabber is quit a nice little device as well. Just another avenue. My brother put 172k on his stock clutch with an edge comp installed for about 150k of that. And he tows HEAVILY with his truck. Just be ginger and know when to apply the power. IF your doing any draggin and sled pulling though a new clutch is in order for sure.

 

[gsdog1]

I should have my clutch in soon. Looking at a DD from either SBC or Haisley with a 1 3/8" shaft. After all that some injectors and a turbo upgrade!



I think that I will be going with the Blue Chip Cover, and no stealth issues involved with 130k on the truck!



Honestly, should I use additives to condition the pump?



Thanks all y'all!



Matt

 

[Rman]

I do use additives. I'm not concerned about lubricity as much as some others, but i will concede it is something worth looking at. I've seen stock pumps go 200k with no addtives at all, some may last 40k. It's all in the luck of the draw. Sometimes you get a real gem that'll last no matter what you do to it. Sometimes you get a loser that even dumping all your money on additives will still die at 75k... the answer... to each his own.



I use additives primarily for the antigel... it gets cold and being stuck kind of sucks. Thats the one weakness diesels have... though they have improved on them 10 fold (anyone who's owned old school diesels knows this).



Just my 2 cents... sounds like your truck is going to be a real beast. . good luck.

 

[Hohn]

There's only one bulletproof way to connect the pump wire: SOLDER IT. Just solder it and be done if youare going to connect it. It also saves you the hassle of the BC pump cover (and $50) which is known to occasionally have connectivity issues.



The BC pump cover is mostly for guys who want to tap the wire and try to keep warranty (ethically wrong, IMHO).



Solder it and get some of that paint-on electrical tape to seal it up nice. no corrosion, no problems.



Be advised that the VAST majority of pump failures after tapping the wire are reported on the 1998 and 1999 year trucks. You can almost expect your VP to fail if its an original 1999.



Justin

 

[Dsul]

Just to add an additional point, I've got my pump wire tapped. It's a 99, original VP and LP, and had previously had a Powermax 3 connected with a scotchlok. I bought the truck with 99,000 miles and threw a Power Button (Blue Box copy) on it and most recently stuck a Blue Chip APB on it, all through the original scotchlok. The truck now has 141,000 ticks on the odometer with no hint of pump troubles. Of course as soon as I type this, my truck probably won't start. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, you'll love it.

andy

 

[gsdog1]

Well looks like I am in a crap shoot with my OE 1999 VP.



Thanks for all the replies.



I am going to do the clutch, BC cover, and pray - all in a day!



I will keep you all posted. BTW - still waiting on my Max Fuel Flow System from up North as well. I think those UPS guys need to repaint their trucks!



Matt