2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Give me a Brake answer

[thepitts]

I have a problem with the front brakes on my truck. The pads look fine, under light peddle all is OK. Under heavy peddle it feels like something is hitting and the front end shakes. Could the caliper be warped or a pin stuck? Need your help

 

[Oxjockey]

For the shudder, check the torque on your lugnuts on both sides. Can't help with the sticking/obstruction.



Bryan

 

[thepitts]

Torque checked

The torque is set to 135 lbs on all four corners, but thanks for the come back.

 

[raf2000]

Sounds like warped brake rotors. Classic symptom for it. Everything can look fine, you can''t see the runout on your rotor until it's on the lathe. Also, if they have been turned before, they become more prone to warping as they are made more thin and can't handle the heat...

 

[Oxjockey]

Re: Torque checked

Originally posted by thepitts

The torque is set to 135 lbs on all four corners, but thanks for the come back.

I'm glad to see someone torqueing! But like raf2000 said, they're probably warped. But you can check runout with a dial indicator and magnetic base if you've got one or access to one.



Bryan

 

[Joe Mc]

Check - shocks, tire wear, inflation, track bar & joint play, stabilizer shock. You didn't mention if the pedal is pulsing when applying the brakes. Does the shake definitly come from the front? If it only happens when applying the brakes try leaving foot of the brake pedal and lightly apply the emergency brake. if it happens then the problem could be in the rear - oh you're a 2001 probably all wheel disc. Like the others said check runout w/a dial indicator.



Also, as far as the caliper pins being stuck - if they were they would probably have worn out your pads by now, but do a search on "slide glide" and you should come up with the procedure for lubricating the caliper pins. Not sure if it's a problem w/the 2001's but willing to bet it is.



I'm at work now, if you want to PM me I'll send you the pin lubricating instructions I have on my PC @ home this evening.

 

[thepitts]

Track bar

Have a new track bar, no problem with back brakes while using emergency brake. I did have the tires rotated when I started to notice it, will have tires checked again. No problem at speed, brakes in a strait line no pull, just feels like a hammer hitting on the pedal. Will check for run out.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Brake

Thepitts, if I were you I would make absolutely sure that one of the front pads is not metal to matal and that the sensors for the ABS are both in place. It sounds to me like either a worn out pad or the ABS is activating. bg

 

[thepitts]

ABS

I will check the pads again and most likely just replace them. I do not have ABS brakes but thanks for the ideas.

 

[Snow man]

Ptits,dont waste your time replacing pads,you have a warped rotor. New rotors,or getting them turned is the only answer to the shake. To avoid warping them in the future do not sit with your foot on the brake after a hard stop,get off the brakes,so they cool evenly,or creep forward,so they will cool evenly. They usually warp only if they are used hard/abused quite a bit. I havent warped one rotor in 17 yrs of driving,yet my dad can borrow my truck for one day,and they are warped,its the way you drive most of the time that warps rotors,in my yrs of being a mechanic,the late brakers/tailgaters always had warped rotors way before the pads wore out.

 

[illflem]

Don't waste your time getting the rotors turned, new Bendix rotors from napa are $59. You could probably spend half that much to have them turned incorrectly.

 

[dan_gilson]

Checking rotors for runout is fairly easy. magnetic base dial guage and jacking and removing the front tires.



The Shop manual says . 005" runout. I had problems with that. My tire guy lathed them on the truck. This was much cheaper than removing them and he said the best you could expect with removing them was ~. 005". When he was done with the lathing they were within . 0005" and I have not had a problem with them since.



They have not been making any noise or anything else?



A cheap trick would be to spray everything down with a can of brake cleaner.



My problems started when a dealer over greased my front grease points. Some got on one or both of the rotors.



You can also wrap the rotors if you let the rears go way out of adjustment. This puts all the stopping on the fronts. Causing a lot more heat.

 

[thepitts]

Thanks

Thanks for all the great info, this is the first time I ever had warped a rotor. I think it was from drag racing and not letting the brakes cool before the next run. I will check for new rotors from NAPA.

 

[thepitts]

Rotor

Checked price for rotors at NAPA for my 4X4 the price was 119. 00 each. Cheaper to have them turned

 

[dan_gilson]

The stock brakes will be pretty heat stressed comming down from triple digits speeds. They would fair better if you keep them spinning so that they will cool more uniformly.



You might want to think about moving to a better pad and rotor. Cross drilling the rotor will give you some better cooling. Carbon pad will keep you from glazing and fading.



I have not upgraded to an after market set yet. I have been eyeing the stuff from ERG: www.EarthRoamer.com/egr/

I do have their metal braided lines and have been very happy with them.



I have been waiting for my current calibres to give out before upgrading.