Good Diesel Driving Tips

[joreilley]

Hey Guys:



I'm a recent CTD owner and a new TDR member. I've never driven a diesel of any kind before. Can you give me any tips on driving and care to make my CTD last as long as it possibly can?



For example, the manual recommends idling for 3-4 minutes after a cold start. It also warns about idling the engine too much elsewhere in the manual. I've often seen people warming up diesels much longer. What's the right thing to do?



Also, I'm new to automatics. I know how to nurse more life out of a standard clutch. I presume on an automatic that I should let up on the pedal slightly around gear changes, so I'm not wearing it too much. Does that make sense? Are there other things I should have in mind?



I'm looking for good driving diesel driving and care tips. No tip is too obvious or simple!



Thanks,



Jude

 

[Oil Burner]

Jude,

Welcome to the TDR! As far as driving habits go, these things are fairly durable but a few things should be considered. If you aren't towing and you are starting in cold weather, I would let the oil pressure come up then start driving very lightly. That is the best way I have found to warm up the ctd. You are correct in not letting it idle for long periods. I plug my truck in during winter months to a timer set to turn the block heater on three hours before I get in. That way it isn't on all night. The only time mine idles is during cool down. I have a pyrometer, so I know when it is safe to shut down. Usually around a minute of idle time for in-town driving and as much as a few minutes directrly after a very hard pull. Do you have a manual or an auto? Your sig says 5 speed and i thought that only the new 48RE's were 5 speed autos.

~Jason

 

[Oil Burner]

I would highly recommend a fuel pressure gauge. It is the one mod you MUST have. And if you have an automatic, a trans temp gauge is critical also. Get those and keep a close eye on them while driving. Both may save you thousands of dollars in repairs.

~Jason

 

[CRSmith]

Take a look at the search results about extended idling at the bottom. Basically, people will tell you that it doesn't hurt a diesel to let it idle. Well, it does. The cylinder temperature drops, the fuel stays in a liquid state and is unburned, and washes the oil off the cylinder walls. There is also a tsb for the 24 valves that changes the engine to 3 cylinder mode to keep the cylinder temperatures up. It is supposed to be a fix for bent valve stems from idling in the cold. It had hit or miss results. This was THE topic of 2001, and has been pretty well hashed out. The consensus was don't idle just to idle. I'd cut it on and off just like you do a gas car.



There's no need to idle after a cold start. The best thing you can do is start driving to get that oil warm, flowing, and get the cyl temps up. I don't ever dog mine until the water temp gauge gets up to operating temp.



Turbo cool down is important. After riding around let your truck idle for about 30 seconds before shutting off after normal driving. This lets the turbo cool. An overly hot turbo at shutdown will cook the oil that is trapped around the turbo bearing after it stops circulating. This shortens turbo life. If you get an egt gauge, the target temp is 300 deg F.



I don't think that letting off the fuel during shifts will do a lot for auto transmission longevity. I also think it would get burdensome trying to anticipate shifts and dealing with the resulting jerkyness. But I don't know for sure b/c mine's a stick.







search results

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by reduaram

There's no need to idle after a cold start. The best thing you can do is start driving to get that oil warm, flowing, and get the cyl temps up. I don't ever dog mine until the water temp gauge gets up to operating temp.

That depends on how cold it is and if the truck has been plugged in. If it is very cold and not plugged in, the cold oil is very thick. Almost like molasses.

Originally posted by reduaram

I don't think that letting off the fuel during shifts will do a lot for auto transmission longevity. I also think it would get burdensome trying to anticipate shifts and dealing with the resulting jerkyness.

Just stay on the power. It won't hurt it. It will also heep the line pressure up so things won't slip too much, particularly w/3. 54 gears. Best to lock out the O/D 'til you reach 50-55mph, then engage the O/D.

 

[Pit Bull]

Go to this site and read everything on it. www.dodgeram.org

 

[joreilley]

Thanks...keep it coming.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. It definitely sounds like I need to get some gauges and then starting watching my cool-down period:



- Is there anything out there that will tell you the right temperature ranges to watch (egt, transmission, etc. )?



- Where's the best place to shop for them?



- How hard is the install?



Thanks again,



Jude



P. S. I did have my signature wrong. Still learning!

 

[Oil Burner]

I have purchased all of my gauges and mounts from Geno's garage. I have found them to have good prices and excellent customer service. If you are reasonably confident at turning wrenches, the install is very easy. Just follow the supplied instructions. Walk yourself thru the install and write a post on anything you don't understand.

-Jason

 

[damar]

Welcome Aboard -- Having driven the "BIG RIGS" before I retired I wll give you the recommended practice for big trucks. When you leave the interstate, by the time you get to the truck stop, thru various streets and entrances and get parked, your turbo has cooled enough that it is not necessary to idle your truck to cool down further. Never lost a turbo using this method. Of course a good quality oil is important so it doesn't coke.

 

[MCummings]

Originally posted by JStull

i thought that only the new 48RE's were 5 speed autos.

Only the HEMI's come with 5-speeds. I am not sure if the 5. 7 HEMI can be equipped with a 5-speed or not.



The '03+ trucks have only a glorified 47RE, renamed a 48RE. Some hard parts have changed, and it has a little more holding power, but basic design is still the same since '98.





New CTD owner. Watch/Moniter fuel pressure. I'd suggest checking fuel pressure minimum of every 3K oil change.



Any other problems can be taken care of the TDR members here.



If you want to modify your truck for more HP, then more steps will need to be taken for maintanence, and more items need monitered, but for now, All you need to watch is Fuel Pressure.



Here is a good read about the VP44. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/Bosch-VP44.htm



Hope this helps.

Merrick Cummings Jr

 

[MCummings]

Jude,



I missed your questions about installs.



Evan A. Beck, he works at "The Power Shop" in Seattle Washington. Friend of mine, he knows his stuff.



1-800-835-8839 - The Power Shop



Ask for Evan,, tell him Merrick sent ya



Merrick Cummings Jr

 

[Mtngoat]

Merrick-Hello!

Met you at Muncie for a second, I was with FloorIt. I have always been concerned about my VP-44 as well as a lot of people. I just read the article you recommended from Blue Chip. Gotta admit, a lot of that is over my head. Maybe you can help me with it. Are they saying that most pump failures happen right after a enhancement device is put on it and that if it has not been a problem after a while (I think they said 20 minutes) chances are you have a good pump that will last? Are they talking about for example, an Edge Comp?

Your right, it was a good read, but like I said, a lot of it was over my head.



Robin

 

[MCummings]

Originally posted by Mtngoat

Merrick-Hello!

Met you at Muncie for a second, I was with FloorIt.

Nice to meet you again

Are they saying that most pump failures happen right after a enhancement device is put on it and that if it has not been a problem after a while (I think they said 20 minutes) chances are you have a good pump that will last?

EXACTLY Most problems have been in the '98 24V trucks and some early '99's. If your pump didn't go out within the first week of driving, and your fuel pressure is good,, and you keep good fuel pressure, chances are, you will have good life out of your '44.



I personally feel that short trips to 1-2 PSI of fuel pressure will not kill your VP44, but maintaning low fuel pressure,, say 5 PSI for 3 hours using lots of power, will prove detrimental to the '44's life.



As noted in the Article at Blue Chip Diesel, the failures come from overheating the pump. Any electrical piece of equipment used longer than designed will get hotter than intended. (Clear as mud?) (referred to as duty cycle)

As the fuel solenoid is held close, it creates heat. With stock fueling, the solenoid doesn't get very hot,, even when you are working the truck to it's maximum.

The trick to making power though, is to hold that solenoid open longer. Thus,, allowing more fuel to flow through the pump, and into your injectors. The downside is, As that solenoid is being held open, it creates more heat, and, without fuel presure, or like the '98. 5's and early '99 pumps with weak, or low Quality control and loose tolerance pumps, the heat would warp the internals of the pump, and cause the pump to hit itself, and cease up. The newer pumps have stronger parts, better QC, and good tolerances. I still think the extra heat warps some parts of the pump, but with the better built pumps, the small amount of warping is taken into account, keeping the pumps from hitting themselves and ceasiing (that's my opinion).

Are they talking about for example, an Edge Comp?

I think they are specifcly talking about their Blue Chip FMS.

BUT,

The concept applies to ALL boxes piercing the pump wire. Edge COMP, Edge Pulse, TST, Banks, and any other boxes that are being produced that pierce the pump wire.



The VP44 has it's own internal ECM governer of how long the solenoid can be open (duty cycle) The most the VP44 will let itself be open is as far as the Edge EZ, which is about 65HP in lower RPM, and abour 45 HP at peak HP. If you see any box advertising anymore HP than that without piercing the pump wire,, either they have come up with some great new technology worth looking into, or they are seriously pulling your leg. Ask for dyno sheets, 30 day money back guarentee's and such, becuase, you will probably be sending it back since it won't meet their claims, or your expectations.



The only way to get more HP out of the VP44 is to pierce directly into the wire that controls the solenoid.





Have you ever wondered why Bosch left those 3 wires exposed on the VP44? There is no reason for it,, and they could have been EASILY built into the pump. I think somebody at Bosch new we would be tampering with these pumps, and put those 3 wires exposed just for people like us to find it, and Pierce away,, find the limits, and see what works, and what doesn't.



Hope this helps, bad grammer and all.

Merrick Cummings Jr

 

[Mtngoat]

Merrick-



Thanks!!! That does help a lot. Hope to see you again in Muncie. You should see FloorIt since he had surgery. Face all swollen up, looks rough, (sorry John!)



Robin