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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Good Pusher Pump

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Where can I find a good pusher pump? I was talking to someone and they told me I could get a good one for about $100. Thanks for the help.



Eric
 
Jegs



High Pressure with 3/8'' NPT Inlet and Outlet, 14-16 psi output, Requires Regulator, 100 gph Free Flow

180-P4601HP Competition Series, Black Pump $89. 99



Standard Pressure with 3/8'' NPT Inlet and Outlet, 6-8 psi output, No Regulator Required, 100 gph Free Flow

180-P4600HP Competition Series, Silver Pump $81. 99





Summit Racing



CRT-P4601HP Fuel Pump, Electric, Competition Series Black Pump, Rotary Vane, External, Universal, $89. 88



CRT-P4600HP Fuel Pump, Electric, Competition Series Silver Pump, Rotary Vane, External, Universal, $81. 88
 
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Rock-N-Rammer said:
Jegs



High Pressure with 3/8'' NPT Inlet and Outlet, 14-16 psi output, Requires Regulator, 100 gph Free Flow

180-P4601HP Competition Series, Black Pump $89. 99



Standard Pressure with 3/8'' NPT Inlet and Outlet, 6-8 psi output, No Regulator Required, 100 gph Free Flow

180-P4600HP Competition Series, Silver Pump $81. 99





Summit Racing



CRT-P4601HP Fuel Pump, Electric, Competition Series Black Pump, Rotary Vane, External, Universal, $89. 88



CRT-P4600HP Fuel Pump, Electric, Competition Series Silver Pump, Rotary Vane, External, Universal, $81. 88



what does it mean a regulator is required, and how much does that add to the cost?
 
I removed the stock lift pump and installed a good old Holley Blue rated at 15psi, directly in front of the tank on frame rail. I see 12-14psi @idle and nothing below 7@ WOT. The truck is in stock form except BHAF and 4" turboback. I am goin to try another pump soon just to compare.
 
heres my setup... The pusher pump is the carter 7# pusher. i have the stock one in the same location. Because of this I had to get a regulator and I bought the adjustable kind. I have 13-15 PSI no matter what... . even WOT!!



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Here is the Racor filter and water separator. this helps keep the pumps clean... I am using a 30 micron filter here...



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Here is the 7# pusher. the one-way bypass check valve is incase the pusher fails, the stocker can draw fuel past it to get home.



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here is the adjustable regulator... The hose for the return to the Racor filter is on the bottom below the plate.



When there is a little return to the inlet side of the Racor Filter, there is a small head pressure even on the pusher pump so even that one don't work hard pulling fuel from the tank...



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Hi Eric,

I am looking at a similar setup to what you have done.



Are you regulating the pressure for your gauge?

Do you use the factory filter/heater?

Why do you return from the regulator back to the filter instead of the tank return line?



I have 2 - 15psi pumps, so I would also like the one way valve, and the regulator. I was thinking about the regulator between the pumps to limit pressure from the frame pump, but after seeing your diagram it might make more sense to regulate the pressure from both pumps, with my gauge hooked up after the regulator. One problem with this is that I will have too much pressure for my pre-filter gauge, but I would rather not ($$) add in an extra regulator for the gauge. How about a bypass line that routes around the frame pusher and the regulator? I suppose that I would also need a bypass line around the block mounted pump as well. Any suggestions?



EDIT: btw, my factory pump died and I needed the truck back on the road right away so I replaced it. Then I ordered a plumbing kit and requested the 15psi pump on the theory that if one failed I could run on the other one until I fixed it.

Bill
 
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The Regulator is as it implies... It regulates pressure for the VP44. The gauge just reads what it is.



Yes I do use the factory filter and heater. I just wired the stock heater to the Racor heater so if one is on, the other is too.



I could have returned the fuel to the tank but I thought that if fuel was being returned, why not have a little pressure for the pusher pump so it don't have to work hard pulling the fuel from the tank and thus both pumps will last longer.



You're getting too worked up on bypass and regulators... Ok, 2 15# pumps make 30#'s line... . A regulator releases some of the pressure to to make it whatever you want via the adjustment screw.



Since the Gauge is after the regulator, it reads it no matter what. The pressure going to the FP sender is what the regulator is set at. So if you set the Regulator at 15 psi, that is what the FP sender will read.



The supply comes up from the frame, goes to a "T"..... one leg to the Filter, one to the regulator. it dead-ends at the filter sender save for the return hose to the rear filter. This system works... . Welll... . I have 15# idle, 13-14 cruise, and no less than 11-12 WOT.



On your spare 15#, keep that as a spare... . and get the 7# for the pusher.



heres the Regulator pic. you see the bottom of the reguator, The top of the red area..... the return comes out of there.



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So just to keep it simple, why wouldn't a 6-8 psi pump mounted just after the tank? Because it would just be helping the lift pump and not forcing fuel through there. Thanks



Eric
 
I did some what the same thing but much simpler.



AN-6 all fuel plumbing to the VP.



Tank. RACOR 690 to get clean fuel. OEM lp on the frame by the tank so it can push fuel. Bypass regulator after the lp bypassed to the tank, regulated to 12 psi so the lp check valve does not open. On to OEM ff. On to the VP



Carry a spare OEM lp.



Bob Weis



45k and running fine.
 
Get the carter 4600, plumb it in line with the existing lift pump, get a relay to control new pump. I use stock lines and am seeing 20 psi at idle and 18 cruise, working great 20000 miles.
 
EricBu12 said:
Ok, 2 15# pumps make 30#'s line... . A regulator releases some of the pressure to to make it whatever you want via the adjustment screw.



This is incorrect.

Each pump is referenced to atmosphere.

You will get the 15 lbs.
 
After my first lift pump was replaced(under warranty), I decided to add a Holley "blue" pusher pump. All I did was mount it inside the frame rail ahead of the tank and spliced it into the stock fuel line. I got an oil pressure switch so the pump only runs when the engine is running(no hard starting). It's a very simple system that works great. Fuel pressure: 30psi @ idle/25psi cruising/17-18 wo. BTW, I got everything from Jegs.
 
My 2 Carter 15psi pumps provide 19psi pre-filter, which I have regulated to 17psi going to the VP, and I am going to drop this down to 14psi next week. I went with 2 15psi pumps for redundancy on the theory that when one fails, I would still have a full 15psi pump to run on until repair.



I purchased a replacement pump from Cummins, line/fitting kit with pump (frame) and wireharness from OPoole, Regulator, misc. fittings, and 4' of hose from Summit and a local shop. The system is complete replacement from the frame very near the tank to the VP. I also added a "T" into the return to accommodate the bypass regulator, otherwise the return is stock. The system cost upwards of $700. I would recommend a FASS or Rasp for near that kind of price tag. Knowing what I know now, this is also the route I would go. The only thing that this system allows is for incremental improvement verses spending the whole amount at once. The downside is the Carter pumps are not very reliable for most people.



As for the reviously posted drawing, I moved the regulator between the filter and the VP and dropped the bypass on the factory position pump.



R-N-R
 
When I put the second pump on... it is 7# pump, it went WAY over 20#... . I Figured it might be at 25# or so..... so that is why I adjusted it to 15# with the regulator...



This setup is working flawlessly so far... over 3 years... .
 
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