Has anybody heard of a goose box instead of an adapter. This is for a 5th wheel. any thoughts or suggestions. Thank you Brian
Yes, Reese is marketing this "Goose Box" with Lippert's apparent blessing as Lippert is the exclusive distributor for the Goose Box to the U. S. RV marketplace and gets a cut on each one sold.
GOSHEN, Ind. , Aug. 16, 2011 /PRNewswire/ -- Lippert Components, Inc. , a subsidiary of Drew Industries Incorporated (NYSE: DW) and a leading supplier of components for the RV industry, announced today that it has been designated the exclusive supplier to the RV industry of Cequent Performance Products' innovative new patent pending Reese® "Goose Box™" adaptor for gooseneck hitches.
Everyone around me except my brother in law has converted their 5th's to a GN of one form or another. Every single one of them has had to fix the front portion of their frames, had to reinforce areas, etc. My 5th gets used more, and harder (lots of time in dirt/rough roads etc) and is a few thousand pounds heavier than any of theirs, and mine is still good after ~6 years of abuse. Mine is still a 5th wheel hitch... not a GN.
My sister and her husband (the brother in law i mentioned) recently had an accident in their 05 cummins/29' cougar, and rolled it all. I was amazed at how the 5th wheel hitch itself held up. It stayed attached to the truck, while the 5th wheel was falling to pieces.
I've guess I got one of the strong enough frames that most adapter users have.
Of course frame failures occur most often with the more common Fiver hitch...
I figured I would stir the pot.
I was an Engineer long ago and studied statics and dynamincs, strength of materials, etc. I'm not whistling. Obviously the loads at the kingpin slightly exceeded design one time. The infamous "bending" loads affected the plate at the end of the Pinbox so slightly with no other apparent damage I probably have many more cycles to go... I have replaced my Dometic Fridge with a residential one so my RV won't burn down so I'm not ignorant of risk analysis. Its amazing how Camping World and so many other venders get away with selling adapters from many manufacturers without online rants from dissatisfied users. Its just not right!
I figured I would stir the pot.
I was an Engineer long ago and studied statics and dynamincs (sic), strength of materials, etc. I'm not whistling.
Obviously the loads at the kingpin slightly exceeded design one time. The infamous "bending" loads affected the plate at the end of the Pinbox so slightly with no other apparent damage I probably have many more cycles to go...
I have replaced my Dometic Fridge with a residential one so my RV won't burn down so I'm not ignorant of risk analysis.
Its amazing how Camping World and so many other venders get away with selling adapters from many manufacturers without online rants from dissatisfied users. Its just not right!
A word of caution is in order about the use of the Cody Coupler! Because of its design, additional pressure may be placed on the "King Pin" of the trailer it is mounted on. This is a result of the leveraging action involved. Because of this, we feel it is wise to mention several steps that should be taken by the owner of such a rig. These are "common sense" suggestions that could and should apply to any type of trailer hook-up.
REGULARLY INSPECT THE INSTALLATION OF THE COUPLER
Make certain the "King Pin" is securely attached to the Pin Box. Occasionally, additional reinforcement might be advisable.
AVOID THE "POP-A-WHEELY SYNDROME"
Smooth, even starts and stops are always better than the jerky motion.
TRAILER BRAKES SHOULD ALWAYS BE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER!
And properly hooked up.
Pwerwagon,
Sounds like the same basic design as the industry favorite for Class 8 trucks.
Holland FW-35.
Yoke/bar goes down beside each jaw. Can't get out of there.
Mike.![]()