Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Got a donor 12V and need some info

[Crash_AF]

Hi all,
After almost a year and a half, I'm finally the owner of a Cummins again.

I just picked up a '94 regular cab that had a steering column fire and has been sitting for the better part of a year waiting on the PO to fix it. It was a wrecker before the fire so he had a fire extinguisher handy and only the column and gauge cluster got fried. The rest of the truck is a 3500 4x4 with automatic. My plan is to strip all the running gear but the front axle out and shoehorn it into my '79 F-350 Supercab 4x4. I'm considering repairing the Dodge, but I really like the look of the '79 Fords and want an extended cab.

First, does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagrams for a '94? I'll gladly pay Kinko's fees and shipping to get a copy so I can try to figure out the mess in the cab.

Second, Is the fuel shutoff solenoid easy to find so I can hotwire it to see how she runs? I'm a little nervous about having bought the truck without hearing it run.

Finally, is there anything I should watch out for with the engine having sat that long?

Later,
Joe

 

[Deezul1]

You dont need to wire the solinoid to run it. Just push it up and wire it or whatever to keep it there and the fuel will flow

 

[Bill Lins]

Welcome back, Joe! How's the family?

 

[midwestdually]

Crash... buy that truck off of eBay?

 

[Crash_AF]

Yep, won it on E-bay. It was delivered today and I'm itching to work on it.

Joe

 

[illflem]

For electrical diagrams I suggest you buy the Chrysler service manual here for $59. There are well over 200 pages of diagrams.

 

[bighammer]

You have a PM, Crash.



(just in case you get no pop up)

 

[Crash_AF]

After working for about an hour last night, mostly disconnecting the dash harness from the firewall and making sure there were going to be no more unplanned releases of 'magic smoke', I fired her up. After pumping the primer about a dozen times it turned over and caught after about 5 seconds.



I'm stoked, it sounds good with no mystery rattles or strange noises and will go into forward and reverse so it looks like the powertrain is in good shape mechanically.



Now for the big questions, does the transmission require the PCM to function properly? If so, should I keep the extra sensors and whatnot on the engine?



Also, does anyone need any non-mechanical parts for their truck? I'm looking to sell the sheetmetal and anything else salvageable before taking the remainder to the scrapheap.



Later,

Joe

 

[TPCDrafting]

What color is the body? and is there still a tailgate? If so, how's it look?

 

[Crash_AF]

Sorry, should have been more specific. The truck is a chassis cab that had the wrecker bed removed. It used to be red but is currently painted silver with primer gray sprayed over the old decals.



Not sure of what's good and what's not right now, but drop me a line and I'll do my best to get further information when I can get to the truck again. (It's stored 150 miles away from me right now)



Later,

Joe

 

[bluthndr]

Hi Crash,



I'm presently putting a '94 in a '98 Dodge (originally gas). I also work at a Dodge and Ford dealer and have the service manual for my truck.



It is my understanding that you need the PCM and the harness to run the auto trans. If you're going to use a manual trans or a TF727 you don't need the PCM. As far as the 47RH trans (in your donor) is concerned, I think all it needs from the engine to function properly is the throttle position sensor connected to the PCM.



I suspect the other sensors/senders are for the gauges, and to monitor that temperatures & pressures are within specifications, and trip the "check engine light" if they are outside the programmed values. The only other thing I can think of is maybe controlling when the intake air heater comes on...



Hope this helps.



P. S. If you are going to be taking all that apart wnytime soon, I would love to buy some miscellaneous odds & ends from you...

 

[wsmalley]

I am pretty sure the PCM dictates when the transmission hits lockup. Only a guess though because when you install a mystery switch you tap a wire coming out of the center plug of the PCM. Just my . 02 cents.

 

[Dieseldemon]

Lockup

You can use a toggle switch to lock it up

94 and 95 are both non electronic trannys

 

[Scot]

I have both service and powertrain diagnostic manuals. PM me if you need something.

 

[bluthndr]

I was under the impression that the 47RH had an electronic throttle pressure control (solenoid), while the 47RE had electronic throttle pressure, and electronic governor (speed sensitive) pressure. I will admit that I could be wrong (please correct me so I know), as I am more familiar with the 727 and 47RE...



For what it's worth I do know that the lockup clutch in the torque convertor can be manually controlled if a switch is wired in... Dieseldemon and wsmalley are correct.

 

[83 crew cab]

with the Rh it uses a cable off the throttle for the govener control (H = hyd) (RE= elec) you will need a switch for 4th gear and switch for lock-up



thats how we are do ing the lil red drag truck exept for the cable we are using a manual vavle body George

 

[Crash_AF]

So what you're saying is that I'll need a switch to engage OD and a switch to lock up the T/C? That sounds easy enough, but are there any other problems that I'll have to overcome in doing this? In other words, would I have to wire anything special to get either function to work properly?



Also, with manual control of lockup, will I have to 'relearn' how to drive the truck and unlock the T/C every time I slow down?



I know on my Excursion, the T/C locks at 40 MPH and unlocks anytime you drop below 40 or hit the brakes. Does this hold true for the 47RH as well?



Later,

Joe

 

[83 crew cab]

if you dont use the computer you will have to wire up the alt like the 89-90 were it uses and the cruise will not work with out it



yes you will have to lock and unlock the converter evertime if you use switch



I am not sure what speed the lock-up is set at in stock setup