Got Gauges! ...and a few problems...

[R-N-R]

Installed 2 FP, 2 EGT, Boost and Trans temp gauges yesterday



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FP problem... Hewitt FP Gauge w/ isolator. I used the hose from Genos to tap into the schrader valve on the injection pump.

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Which connects to the isolator...

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The isolator tubing runs into the gauge mounted in the A-Pillar.

Air bubbles are present in the tubing. No kinks that I can find, but I also do not have any pressure! After a short drive, the gauge indicated about 1/2# of pressure. I tried both hose to gauge combinations on the VP port with the same results from each gauge. Anybody have any ideas for me to check out?



The pre-filter banjo has a plug instead of the schrader valve as I expected so I only have one gauge hooked up right now. Anybody know where I can get a valve that will fit?



The trans temp gauge is also not hooked up yet as the sender manifold is a different size than the sender that I have. I should have that corrected in a few days.



btw, many thanks to the guys at the GLTDR Wrench Day that helped me out with this project.



TIA,

Bill

 

[kluther]

have you tried removing the schrader vavle and tring it again? ken

 

[JWhitcomb]

Remove the valve core.

 

[R-N-R]

Well I removed the valve core... . the hard way.



The hose from Genos is designed to leave the schrader valve core in, unless of course you (I) tighten the living I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER out of it ! When that happens, you effectively turn an $18 FP hose into a $5 grease gun hose. Ironically, the $5 version was originally recommended to me. When the FP hose is overtightened, it "packs" the schrader valve full of white plastic "stuff" thus blocking any chance of flow. I assume the plastic was from the hose as it is now a free flow through design. Ahhh, leasons learned...



btw, 15psi @ idle and 5psi @ WOT



My turnbuckle on the wastegate fell off the first time I stomped the pedal... back to the drawing board on that one.



Next I'm onto installing the trans temp manifold, LOL, that should be fun. Then I'll be installing a tapped banjo bolt into the pre-filter port, guess I won't be needing that scrader valve on that connection after all.

 

[KLockliear]

Time for bigger lines or, if you already have those, a pusher pump kit... 5psi @ WOT is on the low side of optimum.

 

[R-N-R]

Do you think the banjo bolt kit would help, or at least be a start in the right direction?

 

[KLockliear]

While I've not tested their banjo's, we prefer the AN style fitting and a 3/8" line.



We normally see a 6psi increase at the inlet to the pump at WOT over the stock lines.

 

[Car_nut57]

Rock-N-Rammer,



When using these type of isolators a few small bubbles in the small lines to the gauge are not a problem. If you have lost a significant portion of the glycol or have air trapped in the isolator you will not get correct pressure readings on your gauges. I would suggest that you remove the isolators and recharge them with glycol just to make sure that isn't the problem. Not much volume in these isolators so it doesn't take much to throw them off. Good luck with it.

 

[R-N-R]

I just finished my connecting my second gauge. It worked for a moment, then fluttered, then dropped to 0. It came back up to 1 shortly thereafter.



The isolater line has major air bubbles in it. How do I recharge the line?



TIA,

Bill

 

[Car_nut57]

Originally posted by Rock-N-Rammer

I just finished my connecting my second gauge. It worked for a moment, then fluttered, then dropped to 0. It came back up to 1 shortly thereafter.



The isolater line has major air bubbles in it. How do I recharge the line?



TIA,

Bill

I am sure others may have better ways of recharging the isolator, but this is what I would try. Get large surenge and fill it with your glycol. Remove the isolator and make sure the piston is all the way forward toward the glycol end, connect the surenge to the isolator and inject the glycol until the isolator is full and the piston is all the way back towards the fuel side. You may also want to disconnect the gauge line from the gauge and repeat this proceedure. Once the line is full reconnect it to the gauge before removing the surenge so the tube will stay full and reconnect isolator and hose.

 

[R-N-R]

UH OH!

The gauge stayed at zero this morning on the way into work. I went out to check my speedo (ABS light problem) a few hours later and the gauge appeared to be worikng fine. I just got back from lunch, (gauge still "working") and found diesel on my floor mat. The glycol side of the isolater still has major air bubbles in it.



Car_nut57,

Thank You! Your directions are a bit hard for me to visualize, but hopefully when I have the parts in hand the process will be clearer. With diesel in the cab is it safe to assume that the isolator is toast?



Rob,

(okay, quit laughing I probably should have gone with the braided lines that you recommended... . ).

 

[Piston Slapper]

Fuel Pressure Gauge Shutoff

To make you feel better Here is a pic of my fuel gauge install. Cost a whopping $6. 43 for the line and the shutoff. Diesel fuel piped straight to the cab!:--) It hasn't leaked yet, about 10,000 miles. I really don't think it will either anytime soon. If it does happen to start. I have it barely open anyway and I can just turn it off. All us here love the smell of good ol #2 anyway! I'll just tell them it has that new TRUCK smell!



Good luck... really!

 

[R-N-R]

Piston Slapper,



Thanks, I needed that... :-laf :-laf :-laf



hhhmmmm, perhaps I should just let it seep, keep the truck smelling new...



Any chance you have that in "kit form"???



I appreciate the "Good luck", it's getting there slowly but surely.



Bill