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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Governor Lever Adjustment

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2002 dodge ram rant

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Went in to check the governor lever adjustment today. When I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid up into the run position the lever barely moved forward and gets no where near striking the plate in the stock position. I have to move the plate all the way back to get the lever to strike the plate.



Does the adjustment screw on the back of the pump cause the lever to move forward? I was under the impression that it only causes the lever to move up and down. Should I move the plate back until it hits the lever? In the stock position I'm only about 4mm from the most forward postion. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I don't know if I did it correct but I had to pull the fuel shut down rod up and then pull the throttle linkage back a bit then the arm moved up to the plate, my arm hit at the point of the lower hump on a #6 plate
 
If the fuel isn't coming in fast enough for you try rasing the arm up a little, I do know you can't get it too high with a #6.



Jim
 
Jschafer is correct. You have to lift up the shut-off solenoid AND give a little throttle to move the lever to the plate. THEN check and adjust.



-Jay
 
Thanks! I'll try moving the throttle linkage with the fuel shutoff solenoid rod pulled up. I didn't think to try that, and it wasn't mentioned in the instructions from Piers.



Is the lever is suppose to touch the plate when the throttle linkage is at idle? If it is not touching when at idle, does that indicate that the throttle linkage is out of wack?
 
Sure put some new energy in my old truck. Went too far the first time and had to back the lever off a bit. Truck was awesome, but smoke and egt's too much.
 
SBozeman said:
Is the lever is suppose to touch the plate when the throttle linkage is at idle? If it is not touching when at idle, does that indicate that the throttle linkage is out of wack?

I don't know if it is or not. I suspect when the engine is running the governor has the lever up against the plate (or AFC arm to be more exact), whereas when you're adjusting it (engine off) you have to move the throttle to get it up to it's idle position against the plate/AFC arm.



In any case, don't worry about it. The whole idea of the adjustment is to get the lever up and out from under any "nose" at the bottom of the plate so the lever doesn't hang up there. Just get it a tad above the tip of the nose and lock it down.



Be careful though, a few have backed the screw out too far during adjustment and dropped it into the pump :eek: Time to go fishin with your magnet!



-Jay
 
I checked my adjustment because for some reason my engine would run full power to about 2800 RPM and max out at 3200 (goes to 3400 if I free-rev). This was on a pump with original tamper seals in place.



My adjustment checked out fine, but I'm going to pull it here soon and have a shop go through it for a major tuneup. Sometimes at WOT and 2500+ RPM it will suddenly smoke hideously and EGTs spike with no increase in power.



Vaughn
 
RBratby said:
i dont mean to hijack the thread but what does the little L shaped thing in the afc housing do? what is it for?



It holds the governor lever back and keeps it from contacting and following the plate profile - thus restricting fueling - until the turbo builds enough boost to burn the fuel.



By sliding the housing forward, turning the starwheel to relieve spring pressure inside the housing, changing AFC springs, etc. you're changing how it works so that it gets out of the way of the governor lever earlier and allowing the pump to supply more fuel earlier. The trade off is, generally, more low-end smoke.



-Jay
 
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