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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Governor Pressure Solenoid / Sensor

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) AFE Progaurd 7 for Scotty II

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My truck recently was doing second (2nd) gear starts. After searching here, I found the usual suspect is Governor Pressure Solenoid (Transducer) and/or Governor Pressure Sensor. I replaced them both and thought I would post some pics as I had never seen one and some tips on the removal for the first timers like myself.



The Solenoid (Transducer) and Sensor is located on the valve body inside the transmission pan. The Valve Body is what you see after you drop the pan. There is a metal bracket with two star bit screws (T20's I think) and 3 - 11mm bolts holding it on. This metal braket holds the Solenoid in place and seats it into its socket upon tightening the bolts. On the sensor end of this bracket is a "C" shaped slot that entraps the neck of the sensor to keep it from coming out. There is also a "C" shape that necks the Solenoid in a similar fashon to hold it in. After your remove this bracket the Solenoid will just fall out. You then can just pull the sensor out also. Attach the wires and replace the sensor. It'll just pop back into the valve body and hold itself in. Attach the wire to the solenoid and craddle it back into the bracket and insert it back into its socket. At the same time aline the "C" back onto the sensor as this same bracket holds them both in. This will all clear up after you drop the pan and see it if this does not make sense now. If I had only taken a picture of the bracket also...



Part #'s

Governor Pressure Sensor # 56028196AD $62. 70

Governor Pressure Solenoid is # 4617210 $108



Hope this helps,

Gap



Governor Pressure Solenoid on Left and Sensor on right.

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Bottom view of Governor Pressure Solenoid. How it looks when its installed on the valve body.

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Just to throw one more tip in, don't drop the valve body to do this. Do it while the valve body is in the transmission. It will save you a few headaches.
 
Prices

i need to buy these parts. does anyone have a place i can get these without paying an arm and a leg... or are they dealer only items?
 
I think a quality transmission shop would have them. I would call Goerends, ATS or DTT, to name a few (in no particular order).



I bought mine from the local Dodge dealer. They went into the stocker, I used to have.
 
If you can do a fluid/filter change for your AT you can do the solenoid/switch change too. Might as well change the filter while you are in there since it has to come off so you can get to the other parts. Do a band adjustment too if you have a torque wrench. When I did mine I even got a pan gasket upgrade since the new ones are plastic with a rubber seal... much better than the old cork ones that are folded in the box and hard as the dickens to get to stay flat.
 
Here's how you check them out. Install a wet gauge on the governor port on the right side of transmission. Use a scanner, go to the transmission fuctions. there is governor pressure. There should be one pound of pressure for every mph. If the wet gauge and scanner to read the same and the pound per mph is off. It is the tranducer. If the wet gauge and scanner (sensor) is different, change the sensor. Just pull the pan off and change the filter and bad part. Should only take a few minutes to fix.





Dan
 
transmission Trouble

jtsandbird said:
change both parts and the truck runs the same :--) 2nd and 3rd gear starts

hello he's what i would try first,check the transmission relay under the hood,you can use the horn relay to see if the transmission relay is good or not,put the transmission relay in were the horn relay goes, blow the horn ,if the horn blows its ok right,,if that is not the trouble replace the senor on the rear of the transmission, where the speedo cable use to be,dodge part #04800879 cost 27. 34,this senor tells the transmission when to shift, this is the number one trouble maker, hope this helps', smithy.
 
I think it’s more than just the output speed sensor you can unplug it to see if it changes than put a new one in and still have concern. I would check more down the line of electrical like power grounds and connectors at trans. Any way to check for codes? That would help out to see what is going on. I know its easier to say check this and that than to do it but that’s all we can do at this time. Save money and time now and perform some checks if you can. Check and see if you have any concerns with the internal harness and if alls ok then I think your looking down the lines of a valve body. But before we go any farther when does the truck start of in 2nd or 3rd? Is it at start up or after driving for a time? Cold? Hot? Any codes? I would like to know more of what is going on before I would tell you to put parts on... .







Just my 2 cents hope this helps
 
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