Grease fittings popping up all over!

[DUNE RACER]

Well I finally did it, drilled all the steering balljoints and zerked em. Everything but the lower knuckle balljoints now have zerks on them, I didn't see any way to do these as the cap is right under the stub shaft u-joint.

Heres what I used-

- 7/32 drill bit
- 2 1/4X28 strait zerks
- 2 1/4X28 90 degree zerks
- 5/16 & 3/8 wrench
- 1/4X28 tap
- tools to remove front wheels
- flex shaft for drill (optional)

Its a pretty strait forward deal, remove the front wheels to drill the 2 outer tierod joints. Only tap the hole about 3 turns so the zerk threads tight. Use the strait zerks here.

I used a flex shaft to drill the 2 center joints so nothing had to be unbolted for the operation. I just turned the wheel until I had a spot where I could reach. If you don't have a flex for your drill then the tierods will need to be unbolted. Don't beat on the balljoint end to remove them. Insted use a large hammer and smack the side of the object where the balljoint shaft goes through. This distorts the hole for a split second so the shaft can pop out. If there is room to use 2 hammers, hitting both sides at the same time will be more effective.

After the center holes are drilled and tapped use the 2 remaining 90 degree zerks and put everything back together. It took me less than one hour to add these on my rig, now my grease gun has a use again. Each joint took 5 pumps before the seal started to bulge a little, lubed for life: Ya right!

Tips/info-

- center the zerks on the caps
- the cap metal is about 1/16" thick
- grease the end of your drill bit and the tap to keep metal from getting into the joint
- if you must tap on the end of a balljoint, use a punch that will center on the end of the shaft and be careful. I've messed up my share of joints hitting a nut threaded on.


Hopefully some useful info here, maybe more than most need.

Grease on- Zach

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2001 black dually,4x4, 6 speed H. O. ,loaded up and then some!

 

[illflem]

Zach,pretty easy job for the $ and headaches it will save down the road,eh?I'm not familiar with the bottom of the newer rigs,did they short you on the zerk for the drivers side of the track bar also?If so it would be an easy one to add. If you're feeling adventurous/brave now you can tap in a zerk for the front wheel drive U-joints. You will see a flat spot on the U-joint cross where it was supposed to be. The grease passages are already there you only need to drill in 1/4-3/8",tap and zerk. It can be done by turning the wheels all the way without removing the joint. Its important to drill straight towards the center of the cross and remove ALL the shavings with a magnet and/or shop vac,a U-joint isn't as forgiving as a ball joint. After you master that there's still the U-joints on the drive shaft left to do.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)




[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 01-13-2001). ]

 

[DUNE RACER]

Illflem, I was wondering if the u-joints had the passages in them already. Have you added zerks to all the u-joints in your truck or just the fronts? Do you know of a way to zerk the lower steering knuckle balljoint? Its a bit pointless that they offer a way to maintain the upper joint but leave the bottom one to rot. I didn't see a way to do that one.

 

[illflem]

Zach,I've just done the front wheel U-joints. I've been hesitant to post here about it because if a person doesn't get all the shavings out the u-joint will fail,I didn't want folks blaming me. It's best for most folks to buy u-joints from Napa with zerks for $41. My '95s came stock with zerks on all the ball joints. Looking under my 4x4(newer one may be different?) the only ball joint I thought would be hard to drill was the one at the pitman arm. That joint looked like if removed it would swing down enough to drill,especally with a flex shaft adaptor like you used. If you did the pitman arm joint without removing it then your setup must be entirely different,on mine there is no room for any type of drill.

 

[TomGolden]

Howdy all,

I was wondering about getting a spare U joint to carry in my tool box. Are all the U joints identical in a 4x4 long bed, meaning I would only need to carry one spare, or are some different?

Thanks,
Tom


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Get outta the way: The Cummins is Cummin'!

Tom Golden
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, TDR decal, Jack antenna ball
2001 Zinc Yellow SVT Mustang Cobra on order
NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California