Greasecar/full WVO kits

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I'm thinking about taking the '98 to the next level, install a second tank for diesel only and use the main for veggie, but are any of these kits very good and has anyone installed one? I would like to do it "right" even if it's fairly expensive. But then I could probably source parts and do it a lot cheaper myself, mainly would need to get an in-tank fuel heater, install and plumb a second tank, and do two 3-day switching solenoids (for supply and return side). Thoughts/comments?

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

I did my own grease kit on a Benz. I built an aluminum tank, heated with hot water. I used two 3-way valves to control fuel flow so I could flush the fuel system when shutting off without getting any veg oil in the diesel tank. I also used an electric in-line heater to heat the fuel before the injection pump. It worked OK, as most grease kits do. A nice addition is the "line inside a line" for heating the fuel line with hot water. They're kinda pricey though. I cut my oil with diesel when it got cold. Once the Veg oil gels, you're screwed, so keep it from gelling with diesel fuel.



Joe

 

[LSchulz]

Do it right and get a Frybrid kit. I would have done that from the start if I'd had the money (college students are supposed to be broke, right?).

 

[salty]

I disagree about Frybrid. The fellow who runs the company is unpleasant to deal with and arrogant. His kits are fine, but there are better values to be had elsewhere, and many pleasant people to deal with who will provide better service. I have run a GC kit for 130k on my Cummins with no issues. I did supplement the kit with a Vegtherm Mega.



I have to say that GC support was good as well. They get better with time. So many over-complicate this effort. It's about getting clean hot oil to your IP and guess what? There are many viable ways to do that.



lastly, I recently cleaned my GC tank and found ZERO poly or buildup on the copper coils...



You'll find that like anything folk will get polarized over issues that are really not a big deal. For example copper is only an issue if exposed to O2 so I've heard and that matches my flawless experience. Pex has likewise been perfectly adequate. I actually prefer it for flexibilty as on dirt roads or off road there is a lot of flex between the cab and bed. Simple insualtion, and sense can save a lot of money.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

salty I am so pleased you joined TDR. . . I've been wanting to do a full WVO kit on my '98 12-valve for awhile and recently started doing a little more digging on the subject. There are two reasons I want to do this. . . be able to start up and shut down on straight diesel, and to be able to burn a bio-fuel that doesn't take a lot of work to "process. " I like the idea of heating and carefully filtering the WVO then it's good to go. I have a good supply of it, the cafeteria at my job is glad that I take it off their hands.

My main issue is that because I have a short box with a canopy doing an in-bed tank creates an inconvenience with refueling, and takes up precious space. I don't want to hassle with cutting a hole in the canopy to make a fuel fill there. My plan is to install a fuel tank in place of the spare for the diesel tank, and use the main tank for veggie. It looks like it wouldn't be hard to make a fuel fill for the diesel tank behind the license plate, my '68 Cougar's fuel filler is behind the rear plate. I would cut a hole in the plastic behind the place and then mount the plate on a spring-loaded holder. . . should work like a charm. I was just spec'ing it out tonight.

I already have a Fox inline coolant-fuel heater under the truck, and I have the fuel line pumbed for -8AN (3/8" ID) all the way from the pickup in the tank to the stock fuel filter. To complete the system I want to add an in-tank heater, put some insulation on the tank, insulate the coolant lines leading to the tank, and try and put insulation on the fuel lines. I'm hoping this will enable the fuel to reach 160F rather quickly and be able to maintain heat on the highway in very cold temperatures. Then I need to add the 3-way valves, control switches, etc. and temp monitoring (1 probe in the tank and one at the fuel filter). At this point I'm not sure whether to spend the $$$ to buy a kit or try to piece together what I need, I think I could do it for far less than the cost of a kit. My only real concern is to buy quality 3 way valves that will be dead reliable no matter the weather. . . I have read of guys having issues with theirs sticking open and sending WVO back to the diesel tank. . not good.

The key to engine longevity is for the fuel to efficiently atomize and burn completely in the cylinder so it doesn't coat rings and injector tips with partially burned veggie oil. This is a bad, sticky coating will bake to hard deposits when the engine reaches operating temp. The engine and fuel must be thoroughly warmed up to prevent this.

 

[salty]

Vaughn,



I'd tend to leave the diesel tank alone and make the new tank a welded aluminum veg tank. You want to be able to clean it once a year, so set it up with a drain at a designed-in low point. You can flush with diesel and drain sediment out. No matter the foltration routine you WILL get some sediment. If you have heat coils in a tank be sure they are immersed in oil all the time, and you'll want to be able to inspect those. A few extra feet of insulated line is no big deal.



I think you can find all the hardware from several sources. My GC valves have been fine. Check out Plantwise and Craig Reese. Smart fellow who's practical.



I have no computers or heat sensors, rather just use intuition and practical sense. better to run the rngine till warm and then for a few more moments befor switching. If you insulate well and cover most of the radiator you'll find that the lines get hot to touch pretty quick. My filter head gets hot to touch about when the engine temp comes up. Hot to touch is about 150 degrees. Remember, by the time the P7100 compresses the oil and delivers it, it's plenty HOT.



I say, use good components but keep it simple. You are smart enough not to need a bunch of complexity to tell you things are warm.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

OK thanks salty, I'll consider going that route then. The main reason I was thinking of using the main tank is for capacity reasons, don't want the secondary tank to be too large.

 

[salty]

Sorry about the typos. I was in a rush. Good luck and feel free to contact me at any time. And my memory says that Craig Reese is with Plant Drive... Again, sorry.