Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Greasing Ball Joints

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) truck stalling

Status
Not open for further replies.
After reading all the Ball Joint woes I finally went to the parts house and picked up assorted 1/4-28 fittings. Ball Joint tolerances checked fine at . 012 play. Installation was a breeze. Both upper and lower took 13 pumps of Royal Purple synthetic to expand the boot. Hopefully I will not be posting the Ball Joint blues thread any time soon. Truck has 52700 miles when installed. Been an expensive weekend as the stock Michelins were worn out and a new set of Michelin M/S were installed. Not bad for Factory tires though.



Dave
 
mchelius said:
Sounds good Dave, How about a description of the install? Difficult?



On a scale of 10 with 10 being a real pain in the **s it was about 3. Picked up the assorted 1/4-28 grease fittings at Checker. Package contains 2 45's,2 90's and 4 straights. Removed both front tires and drilled 7/32 hole in ball joints dead center until bit broke through the outer wall and hit the internal parts (you will know when your there) there is anywhere between 1/16 or 1/8 between housing and the internal workings. I used an air drill which is probably what it will take on the lowers. Use a 1/4-28 tap into the drilled hole and install grease fittings. The top joints are REAL easy and can be done with an electric drill. The bottoms have a space limitation. I used the 45's on the top aimed to the front for easy access and 90's on the bottom.



Dave
 
I kept the area as free from shavings as possible down to where the bit finally went through. Some fine metal may have entered but I would think not enough to hurt anything. The ball joint mechanism is pretty tough compared to the housing I drilled through, it has to hold the control arms to the spindle. When the bit breaks through it is entering a grease cavity (there was grease on the bit and tap when removed). I would rather have some soft metal particles and lots of grease working with case hardened joints than no grease.



Dave
 
I really like this Idea, it's the metal shavings I don't.

How about drilling a second hole fore grease (and the metal shaving) to be evacuated.

Hmmmmmm. I'll have to climb under the truck and think about this.
 
Before you drill the ball joint, dip your drill bit into some heavy grease so that the filings will stick in the grease on the bit. Before you break through, regrease the bit. Then, do the same for the tap. I did this when I used to have to drill out spark plug holes in aluminum cylinder heads with the head still on the engine in order to install a heli-coil. It works... :)
 
My 4x4 was a bit difficult on the top ball joints because of the universals being VERY close to were the top ball joint needs to be drilled. It was even harder to thread the fitting in. It's TIGHT!

It's also a little of a PITA to get the top joint greased. I got one of those 90 degree K-car adapters and it's easier now.

Eric



98 12 valve 4x4
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top