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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Greasing front u-joints

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I suspect someone has already tackled this project, if so please share. The old truck is at about 120,000 miles and I think it's time to inject some new grease into the front u-joints.



Currently, I'm considering drilling a 1/8" hole in the center of each cap and using a needle grease attachment to add a little grease.



My current thinking is that by going slow and keeping the drill bit greased, most if not all the metal chips should be pulled out of the cap and not contaminate the roller bearings.



It's what to do next I'm undecided on. First thought is to just clean things up and use silicon to plug the hole. Likely better, would be to install a self tapping allen head plug. I considered using zerks, but it looks like clearance would be a issue if left permanently installed, though I may install temporarily for the initial greasing.



Any thoughts? What size plug (thread, pitch etc )would be required to accomplish a safe seal on the drilled caps?



Thanks, Ronnie
 
Or you could wait until they crap out and get a greaseable replacement... . :rolleyes:



I'm not confident that drilling and greasing will save them, and just putting in new ones isn't that bad.
 
Don't listen to bighammer :) ;) The U-Joints aren't that bad I guess, it's getting them. If you live in the salt belt it is particularly interesting.



Maybe I have such a negative attitude about it as my truck is currently up on jack stands while I'm waiting for my hubs to be pressed back together.



I will agree though, that at 120k they are probably on their way out already. Mine made it to 90k before they were noisy and 120k before they started to fall apart.
 
I don't think you can get away with drilling and trying to keep any chips out of the bearings. I had one axle U-joint get rough at about 200K miles. The other one is still the original at 222K miles. The "Bad" one was not that bad. I noticed it when I was checking the front brakes. If I rotated the wheel with the steering straight ahead it was as smooth as usual. If the steering was hard over it was kind of hard to rotate so I changed it. I got the U-joint at NAPA. There are two listed for a Ram 2500. One is about the same size as a drive shaft U-joint. The other is a lot larger. You want the big one. I don't know the part number for sure. The box has a large number 374 on it and a small number 1092201-A. I think I paid $48 for it.
 
Aren't the Spicer / Dana solid U-joints in our trucks just that, solid? If so, I don't think drilling would be worth the time and effort compared to simply changing them out.
 
What kind of bit.....

would you use to drill that "hard" stuff? I am of the "wait till it wears out and replace with a greasable unit" mentality.



However, I am not that way with most things.



Oh well;)
 
You guys are probably right. The best thing may well be to run the originals till they poop out.



However I've ran farm equipment with sloppy u-joint for a very long time by greasing them a lot. Thought I'd try the same thing here.



Steve, I was gonna try a standard split point bit. After some of these thought provoking comments, I think I'll pull a old u-joint out of the salvage rack and experiment on it.



GFogey, I'm thinking about drilling each cap, four on each side, really shouldn't take long. Especially when compared to the horror stories others have shared.



illflem, didn't you do something like this a couple of years ago?



Thanks, RR
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

I noticed it when I was checking the front brakes. If I rotated the wheel with the steering straight ahead it was as smooth as usual. If the steering was hard over it was kind of hard to rotate so I changed it.



I had one like that, it lasted 2 more years before it lost rollers and I replaced it. That was 2 years ago, the other one is now bad.



One of the NAPA joints is greasable. You will have to remove the zirk and put the plug back in, it's too long and will hit the upper balljoint.
 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!! I have changed one of the steering knuckles and the rest are still stock at 429,000 miles.
 
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