2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Greasing front wheel bearings on 2001 1ton 4x4

[MFranz]

I'm doing a brake job on the front of my truck. I know that the wheel bearings are sealed . Im going to remove the ABS sensor and pump a little grease into the bearing as suggested by others on this forum. Does anyone know what type of grease the factory would use when they assemble these trucks. I want to use the same as I don't want a incompatibility issue.
These bearings have never been serviced and they have 135,000 miles on them. How many miles do some of you have on your trucks bearings.
Has anyone every had a dealer or shop service (grease there unit bearings,front) before. I know these trucks are high mileage vehicles but it seems that these unit bearings are a bad design. Your thoughts.

Thanks
Mike

 

[HHhuntitall]

Definitely a poorer design than the older free floating hub type design. As for bad, well, they run it far enough to get it out of warranty, usually. I consider it a CHEAP design. Less in design and production costs, plus the service is good for the dealership. I've greased many of mine, plus customers, and had good luck, considering the design. With both bearing in such close proximity, it give the spindle more leverage over the bearings, but there's not much you can do about it, cheaply.



As for grease, there shouldn't be any problems with compatibility. I'd use a good high temp, high pressure grease, and you should be fine. There should be no issues with incompatibilities, as all USA sold oil products have to be somewhat compatible with each other, just for liability's sake.



I see anywhere from 85k to 220k on these bearings, depending on their use. I think a lot of it has to do with where they're made, and how much grease got pumped into them during assembly. If it was Friday, and you got the last few of the day coming off the assembly line, you usually got those replaced in warranty. Good ones last quite a while, running up the highway. Not so much for offroad use..... you get the idea. Greasing them is a good idea, and greatly prolongs the life of the bearings. I even use the later models with ABS on the older trucks, just so I can use the hole for greasing. Adding a quality grease helps.

 

[MFranz]

Hhunt thanks for the reply. What type of fitting did you use to grease these bearings. I have heard of some using a Turkey baster and others have used a needle fitting on a grease gun. Whats the best way to check these bearings with the wheels off. I was thinking of putting a nut on the threads of exposed bolts and leverage a bar between the nuts to see if there is play. How much play is acceptable . Thanks again for the reply,I do appreciate the help.

Thanks,Mike

 

[HHhuntitall]

Mike, I use either a needle type zerk or a small zerk with an 1/8" tube on the end of the threads, it just depends on what I grab when I go to do it. The rubber tipped zerks will work, as well, just be certain no dirt is introduced through the hole into the bearing... ... I usually clean the area with brake parts cleaner or a good pressure washing before I work on it. The brake parts cleaner can eat up the plastic parts and wire coating, if it's too caustic.



As for the play, I feel the best way to check is with the tire on, lifted off the ground, pushing and pulling on the top of the tire. That gives you adequate leverage, and an idea of the amount of play at the end of the tire. There should be very little play, as in 1/8inch at end of tire to none. Any more will indicate the bearing is getting worn and needs to be replaced. Be careful and make sure any play in the tire doesn't result from worn ball joints. I suppose a pipe or bar wedged in there might give you a decent feel, but it needs to be tight so any incident play isn't misinterpreted to be wheel bearing slop. Also, I don't know how stout you are, but you might back the pads off the brake rotor, so the pads aren't holding on too tight, and giving you any false feel. If the bearing is out, you'll know it, either way, but if it's just starting to go bad, it can be overlooked by the pads holding the rotor, stabilizing the hub assembly.



As for volume, I suggest around 10 pumps. If you overfill the bearing housing, it can squeeze grease out when it gets hot, making a mess, and maybe even blow the ABS sensor out the top and break the hold-down tab..... I learned that one from trial and error. I've heard guys just filling them up, but I've done that, and it didn't work too well for me several times... ... If you service the truck regular, you can always add some when you service the brakes and have the rotors turned. Remember, there is some grease in there, already... . how much depends on the manufacturer. I've had some that wouldn't take a full 10 pumps, usually the USA made ones.....

 

[MFranz]

Thanks Hhunt,great information. Nothing like hearing it from the voice of experience. When I get rich and famous I'm thinking of going to dynatrac on the front end. There are claims of 2 miles per gallon increase in mileage and the bearings are greaseable and easily serviced and replaced.
Thanks,Mike

 

[MFranz]

Hhunt,One more thing I just thought of. Do you do the same thing to the rear bearings or are they oiled by the axel fluid. I have a 1ton dually .
Thanks,Mike

 

[HHhuntitall]

Mike, your rear bearings are what's called "oil bath axles" in that the oil from the differential flows outward into the hubs, lubing the two bearings. It's also called a "Free floating" bearing setup. The hub rides on two bearing on the axle. Your axles are manufactured by American Axle Manufacturing, or AAM. The correct oil level, on level ground, will allow around 1/4" of oil to flow outward through the tubes, between the axle shaft and tube, to the outboard bearings in the hub assembly. Here's a link to a PDF of a DANA 80 axle, such as in the duallies from 94-02, which is built very similar to the AAM. Same basic ideas, just different manufacturer's: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5332.pdf



As for the Dynatrac front hubs, they are a worthwhile upgrade, IMO. I have them on my '03 and '97, and they are a seriously heavy-duty unit. Recently, I've tried the Spyntec/Solid Axle units, and they are certainly worth the money, too. I think I actually like them better than the Dyantrac, expecially with ABS. Yes, they are expensive, but the way I use my trucks, they are invaluable.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Oops, wait, I just remembered you have an '01... . that means you DO have the Dana 80... . for some reason I had in my head you had an '03 or newer..... It's been a long week.....

 

[MFranz]

Great Info,Thanks so much . Exactly the information I was looking for. I was also looking at Spyntec,sounds like they might be cheaper. I also have a 2006 Dodge 1ton single wheel truck(Not a 4 wheel drive). Would they have the same type of setup on the bearings as my 2001,meaning I could grease the fronts but not the back bearings. Thanks for giving up your time to respond,I know how those long weeks can go. You Sir have made my week a great one by answering these questions. Take Care and enjoy the weekend.
Thanks,Mike

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yep, basically the same setup as the '01, just different manufacturers. I think the wheel bearings are very similar, maybe even the same?

 

[MFranz]

Great,Thanks again. Enjoy the rest of the weekend!

 

[HHhuntitall]

Mike, I just happened to notice your post on the '06... ... I saw it's a 2wd. Those bearings are free floating, but packed with grease, and not oil bathed. That's the original design. But, they can easily be repacked and sent on their way!! Many times, I pull the outside bearing, inspect, then refill the bearing cavity with grease and re-install the outer bearing and put it back together. Super easy to do, and a very reliable system.

 

[WilsonF]

If you do have the Dana 60 you can build your own manual hub kit with Ford parts. If interested do some searches, I got all my parts with new bearings/races, rotors for around $500. I did mine about two years ago and no problems with it.

Floyd

 

[MFranz]

Thanks Floyd,that sounds interesting . I will have to check that out. Certainly a lot cheaper.
Thanks,Mike

 

[Hootguy]

Hi Floyd,,,is there any way you could post a list of the Ford parts you used to make your manual hubs on the dodge axle???,,,pictures would be great too,,LOL... hopefully you could help a lot of US get manual hubs at more down to earth price,,,

 

[HHhuntitall]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?226856-Whoa-nellie!&highlight=Whoa+nellie



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...25-Hub-conversion-question&highlight=ford+hub