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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission grid heater questions

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I have a '94 which has become hard to start. I usually use the block heater for over an hour but even then it often takes many tries to start it. I have started it cold a few times and the grid heater isn't coming on anymore. One poster on this site recommended "recycling" the grid heater system by turning the ignition to "on" and waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and then doing the whole process again before trying to start. Lately I read in my owners manual that you shouldn't do that because it can damage the grid heater system. Did I most likely do some damage?



Also, is there a diagram of the grid heater system available? Thanks for any help.



SHinkamp
 
Hard starting is more than likely caused by the fuel system losing its prime. You should check out the fuel lines especially the rubber ones by the transmission. I have started mine in the snow without waiting for the heater grid to even cycle. The Cummins is much better at cold weather starts then the Ford or Chevys. If you are sure that it's the heat grid, you need to verify that it's working, check the relay and also you may have to physically see if it is working.
 
I agree with surfbeetle that it is probably the fuel system. But to check the grid heaters turn the key on and check the volt gague, it should show a heavy draw for about 15 seconds then when the wait to start light goes out the gague should go back to the 12 v level. If the gague don't drop your not getting power to the heaters. There is also a thread here you can search that has pictures of the connections to the grid heater near the intake manifold.
 
As regards damaging the heaters by double cycling, I'm pretty sure my manual suggested it not routinely but for severe cold starts!! BUT I believe 2 cycles sequentially was all that was suggested.
 
Hard start problem solved

Hi Ram fans,



After some mucking around I finally figured out that my hard starting problem was due to a malfunctioning shut off solenoid. I did not damage my grid heater system. I bought a custom made cable with twist lock for $70. 00 from California Push Pull, Inc. and replaced the solenoid. The cable works great and I am glad to get rid of that pesky solenoid.



Thanks to all who offered advice and suggestions. Happy New Year!



Steve
 
Have you trashed the solenoid? I need a plunger if it is still around. Will gladly pay for shipping.
 
I have considered removal of the electric solenoid as well. But I was thinking about a "fail-run" set up with a spring, avoiding the twist lock scenario. Can you post some pictures of the cable connection at the p-pump?



I have always wanted to go into a quick-stop store and leave it running in the summer for the AC, but I can't bring myself to managing 2 keys or leaving it unlocked. I assume the cable set up would fix this. Pull out the key and lock the door... . trucks keeps running.



Would this cause an adverse (bad) reaction within the electrical system, charging, etc?
 
Shut off cable (Solenoid replacement)

Hey Guys,



I'm new to posting pictures, but here goes. I bought a spring and mounting bracket at Home Depot. I mounted the twist lock cable from California Push Pull, Inc. under the dash with the bracket and fished it through the same grommet that the hood latch cable goes through. The cable then arcs across the brake fluid reservoir to where the shut off solenoid used to mount. I made a plate and mounted the business end of the cable through it. You can see how the spring, clevis, and stop work from the pictures.



Steve



P. S. The extra stuff under the hood is for my SVO system.
 
Thanks very much for posting the pics. I had the fuel solenoid on my 97 crap out on me half way up Sylvan pass in Yellowstone National Park. I had stopped for road construction and it would not start again... ... . and after every body had gone around me..... it finally started after a while, lucky me.



Ever since then I've been interested in doing the failsafe cable method.
 
Getting stranded

Hey Ol'TrailDog,

I've heard of a lot of people getting stranded when the shut off solenoid malfunctions. I've also heard of guys who can't get the truck to shut off. I'm glad to not have those problems anymore. I'm also glad you posted because it gives me an excuse to stick in one last picture I couldn't fit on the last post. Good luck to any who try the cable solution. It's not that hard.

Shinkamp
 
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