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I have a 2018 3500 Ram. Error code P2609 came up while on RV trip in N. Dakota. Since arriving home the grid heater and relay have been replaced. It has not been cold enough for Grid Heater to activate, (above 60 degrees.) Code does not clear so far with tuner. Question: 1. Does this code self clear after grid heater activates a few times? 2.
I use a circuit tester on relay terminal on the grid heater side of relay. So far test light has not lite, and pre heat indicator on dash has been on only for a very short time, about 1 second of time. My truck has a key fob normally I wait till grid light goes out on dash before engaging starter.
Any advise will be appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Larry
 
The code will clear after four good trips. Is the code showing active or stored? If it is active the problem is still there. If it stays stored it should clear after the grid heater comes on by itself four times. Did the dealer diagnose the grid heater and solenoid before he replaced them, or just took a shot in the dark?
 
The code will clear after four good trips. Is the code showing active or stored? If it is active the problem is still there. If it stays stored it should clear after the grid heater comes on by itself four times. Did the dealer diagnose the grid heater and solenoid before he replaced them, or just took a shot in the dark?
 
Thank you! I did replaced grid heater and solenoid myself. Yes it was shot gunned. It looks to be a basic system similar to a engine starter system. Your question about it being an active code or stored is a good one. I do not know the answer to that, and don't know how to tell the difference. I did try to clear the code, or turn off the check engine light with my tuner before I replace things, I got another code that said; "DTC clear failed error code 14000" I do not remember if I got the 14000 code after trying to clear code after replacing parts. Guess I might try that again, but will wait for your reply before doing so. I do know grid heater has not activated so far due to it being to warm, and also because of using a circuit tester. Truck is kept inside a insulated garage when not in use.
Footnote: Looking at my removed parts it likely was the solenoid that was the issue. There is an awful amount of current going thru the single solenoid as you probably know. Looks like it would be a more reliable system with 2 separate solenoids and heater elements like the older Rams had.
Again, Thank you Larry
 
No need to wait for the WTS light to go out unless you are in subzero temperatures.
Rest of the time it's only for emissions and to sell battery's faster.
You can start it right away.
If it is a push button start - just push twice in a row to over-ride the WTS.
 
I called the dealership, and they can't even get me in until January. Said it would take a week to test it. That's crazy. Guess I'll just keep it parked outside for now. Can you disable the heater without throwing codes?
 
No need to wait for the WTS light to go out unless you are in subzero temperatures.
Rest of the time it's only for emissions and to sell battery's faster.
You can start it right away.
If it is a push button start - just push twice in a row to over-ride the WTS.
Thank you.
I figured it had to cycle a few times before clearing but was not sure. I have a key fob, no push button start. We live in high desert in Arizona and the nights have been getting down in the 30's. Will leave truck outside hopefully grid heater will cycle.
 
Check your bolt into the air horn to make sure it isn't loose. If it is disconnect the solanoid at the battery until you get it into the dealer.
 
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