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Grinding in 3rd

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My 96 has an NV4500 and when going into 3rd when trans is cold it grinds. Has anyone else had this problem? I think the syncro is going bad. I changed the fluid and no metal debris came out. Once its warm it does not have this problem. I have 82000 on it. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have the opposite problem it shifts fine until the oil warms up then it grinds into 3rd.

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88 GMC CREW CAB 4X4 89 6BT,NO INTERCOOLER YET,AUTO METER LIQUID FILLED GAUGES,NV4500,NP205,4. 10's,35 BFGA/TKO,6" LIFT,DETROIT LOCKER,16CM,K&N,3. 5 EXHAUST,BD "PRINCE OF DARKNESS"INJECTORS 96 215 hp on the way. J. Mason
 
My 96 NV4500 does the same thing... only in both hot and cold... LOL Actually the only time it grinds cold... is from a cold-soaked (below zero) start... then goes away... then comes back again when shes warm.
Doesnt do it all the time... and it does it more when I speed shift it... if I ease the stick into gear... shes ok... but when I speedshift... . she'll grind.

Grind isnt all that bad... just lets u know its there. . #ad
124,000 on the truck, (been grinding since about 92k or so) transmission fluid due to be changed.

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"Shadows" 96' 2500 SLT, Reg Cab, 12V, 4x4, NV4500, 4. 10s, LB, LSD, Black Exterior w/chrome rockers, Camel/Tan Interior, Towing Pkg w/ Tekonsha electric brake controller, Walker Muffler, Kitty wandered off to the woods... :) K&N Filter--Silencer Ring gone,AFC opened up a bit, Optima Yellow-tops, 235/85/16 Michelin LTX A/Ts Other Upgrades pending $$$$ :cool: TO THE BOMB BAY!!!!!!!
 
Just an addition to the above post. . #ad


The other gears dont grind when I speedshift..... so Im suspecting the synchro is going out. Oh well. . planning on replacing it anyway with an upgraded one from Standard Transmission eventually. . #ad
#ad
#ad
Cheaper than the Dealer...
 
Mine does the same thing, so I thought that it was the clutch. But with further testing I think that I have found the problem. All the tests point to the master/slave clutch hydraulics. Here is the test that I did and you might try it to see if it works the same. When you come up to a stop sign, pump the clutch 2 or 3 times before you start off.
What I found on mine is that I can go into 3rd much easier,I think its because the fluid is not getting by the 'cups' in the system. I also double clutch when going into 3rd and it also helps. I compared it to pumping the brakes when the master cylinder is having problems.
I have a new'complete' system that should be here sometime next week. They only sell the complete system and its not cheap. I will keep you posted on what happens. .
My truck has 154,000 on the OD.
Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped
 
My does the same thing in third.
I find that I don't press the clutch
all the way down.
Just another inch and it is fine.
Maybe I'm getting in too much of a hurry.
Never do like pressing it to the floor,
keep thinking there is a clutch brake there.

my . 02

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97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z
 
Originally posted by RHARVEY:

I have a new'complete' system that should be here sometime next week. They only sell the complete system and its not cheap. I will keep you posted on what happens. .
My truck has 154,000 on the OD.
Rick
[/B]

My hydraulic slave cylinder was leaking by onto the floor and would not allow smooth shifts. I checked the price at Dodge. Ouch. I figured, what the heck, I'll take it apart. Well it is really quite simple and all it needed was to be cleaned up. I reinstalled the original seals and and greased the cylinder with brake cylinder grease. The unit is still working fine after 40K miles. The hardest part is purging the air out. I ended up taking it out into the hills and getting the truck on some steep inclines while pumping the peddle and that worked.

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves
 
The only reason that I am replacing the whole thing is that I got a great deal on a new one that is still in the package. Someone bought it and never installed it on his 97 and he sold it to me for $65, and the cost at the dealer was $349. 00. Everything is new from the res. to the slave clutch and all the tubes. .

Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. I am glad to see that I am not the only one. I do find
that shifting slower does help to keep from grinding. It also seems to help in making sure I push the pedal to the floor.
 
Originally posted by RHARVEY:
The only reason that I am replacing the whole thing is that I got a great deal on a new one that is still in the package. Someone bought it and never installed it on his 97 and he sold it to me for $65, and the cost at the dealer was $349. 00. Everything is new from the res. to the slave clutch and all the tubes. .

Rick

That's a great price!
 
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