Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) gsk/#11 compatability

[pwerwagn]

Some people say not to use the 3KGSK with the #11, and others have had excelent luck. What gives? Should I go for the 3KGSK? Im looking into a #10 soon anyways, but want to try the gsk with the #11 to see how it reacts.

 

[K5IP]

Similar quetion,

I have a TST #6 in a 95 5spd. I was also looking at a 3K gsk but TST says the #6 plate is not compatable with a gsk. Anyone know why?

 

[Tardog]

I to have heard that the#11 and GSK don't mix. I was in Piers Diesel a while ago and spoke with a tech there, they said the #10 and GSK was the best set up (for a 97 5sp that is). If you have the #11, I'd get the GSK kit and try it, then if it doesn't work I'd swap out the #11 for a #10 for $50. just my . 02

 

[radixr]

I had 4k GSK and the #11 and the performance sucked! I don't know why but the #10 plate made all the difference in the world. Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[Deezul1]

I am running the 4K GSK and #11 plate and it managed to make 428HP, I guess it works ok.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

It will work but it does take a little bit of adjustment to get it there, John Gov arm is on it's last bit of adjustment to get the arm to hit the plate just right.



P. S. My Race pump has a #6 plate in it and yes I like it better than a cut plate.



Jim

 

[Howard Durand]

I hope this fits in with this thread.



I am beginning to believe that adjustment is an important part of installing any plate.

There must be a correlation between where the plate is set and where tha governor arm is set. I want best fueling at the least amount of smoke.

I have the #10 with 3K gsk and right now the gsk is not doing me any good.

The governor arm is set near the lower extent of it's adjustment.

When pulled forward it touches the plate just above the lower tip. The plate is 0. 030" forward of stock.

I can't get 3000 rpm. Fueling quits at about 3/4 throttle and that is the end of it.

Harry at Piers PDR says to move the governor arm up a little. That makes sense because I don't think it is raising high enough to clear the upper nose on the #10 profile.

The other option would be to move the plate even further forward.

Any ideas?

 

[Andy Redmond]

Howard:



Did you mention changing your gov. adj from stock previously, if so raise it back up to where it was, then report back to us. If you have your stock plate you can re install it to the oem position and adjust the gov lever to the bottom of the oem plate, shouldn't go under it...



The reinstall the plate and try it. That's why vendors often recommend the #10 or # 4 plates as they slope way off at the bottom and are forgiving of lever adj.



Also ck. for full throttle operation/travel. Remove the shut down solenoid and see if full solenoid travel equals full pump lever travel. Also if fuel psi, volume or restriction exists you will have top end performance issues.



Good luck

Andy

 

[BV]

PDR suggested an #11 plate for my use and when I asked about a GSK they told me not to get it. I'm pretty happy with just the plate and it seems to fuel all the way to 2500 rpm. Plate is in the stock setting.

 

[pwerwagn]

I really dont want to run a #10 yet, as I dont want to buy a clutch and I am going to be pulling 16K+lbs every weekend for quite some time and I dont want to worry about EGT. But I would like to rev higher than 2700-2800 so I can make a better 3-4 shift. any other suggestions?

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Why would you worry about a #10 when you can slide the plate back to take power away from it... ... ... ... ... I don't get it!



Jim

 

[Cooker]

That's why vendors often recommend the #10 or # 4 plates as they slope way off at the bottom and are forgiving of lever adj.

By sloping off at the bottom do you mean so as the governor arm doesn't have to fight to get onto the plate. The #10, at least the one I installed does exactly the opposite (I will try to attach a picture). Is this not a #10? It seems that this plate pictured would not be forgiving of adjustment? If the gov. lever is set too low I cannot see how it would possibly overcome the nose of the plate to get on to it. Maybe I am not thinking about this correctly?

 

[98rammer]

cooker, you're right. dunno if that's a #10 plate or not. the gover arm moves in relation to RPM, not boost or anything. so, if you floor it from a dead stop (with an auto, or go reaaaally slow with a manual), then the arm will go under the plate. there's full fueling, been there, had that many times. if the arm is low, say on the plate pictured..... well, rpms will raise the arm as you head down the road (not under immediate WOT conditions). now it's not running the right amount of fuel per rpm/boost (may be really smokey and/or lack power). adjust the arm up a little bit where's it's suppose to be set, and then the fueling curve is better suited for the truck.



k5ip, i don't know what the shape of the #6 plate is like, i'm guessing that it cuts back the fuel on the top end, hence. . "not compatible" with the gsk?

 

[pwerwagn]

So does a #11 fuel less on top end than, say, a #10???

 

[Cooker]

FWIW here is a pic of a #6 from Piers site.



#ad

 

[Howard Durand]

Cooker,

That is definitely a #10 and lowering the governor arm to that plate's lower point just about takes all of the adjustment available. In fact any more lowering of the arm can easily cause one to lose the adjusting screw and nut into the bottom of the governor case.



Andy,

This is the fourth plate I have had in my truck.

I did no governor adjustments when I removed the stock plate and put in the one that came with the Banks Power Pak.

About a year ago I removed the Banks plate and put in a #5. At that time I adjusted the governor arm slightly to touch the plate on the high side of the nose.

I am still toying with putting #5 back in. It really goes but egt's become a very real problem.

When I put in the #10 I set the arm to touch the nose just above the lower point.

The truck has very good response from the start with very little smoke but, as said before, it just peters out at about 75 mph unloded or around 2300 towing the trailer up a hill. It still has plenty of throttle left but no go.

I'll check the fuel solenoid and linkage again but don't think that is the problem.

I am thinking that either moving the plate further forward or raising the governor arm will make a difference. I am leaning toward raising the arm a bit first.

 

[hsmith]

I don't know about all of this. I ran the #11 for a bunch of miles, thought I was happy. Installed the 3k kit from PDR, adjusted the gov lever, and found a new love for the old '96. Don't want a different plate now, maybe a 16 housing for lower egt

's while towing. My #11 and 3k kit works very well together. By the way, I was not discouraged by the good folks way up north about this matchup.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

That picture of a #10 is a Joke, too small of a bottom nose and way too rough in the middle..... chop job, plates are cheap, buy a real TST plate and be done.



Jim

 

[Howard Durand]

Here is the #10 I bought from Piers, the Banks Power Pak plate and a TST #5

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Howard,



your '94 should still wind up higher w/ the 3k GSK. not sure what's up... but to really wind it out, you need a 4k on your pump.



you may want to swap that #10 out for a #100... no upper RPM defueling.



I had a #6 in my truck... it was a poor match for my 4k GSK... with the wastegate blocked off, I could watch the boost gauge and it would hit 35psi pretty quick and just sit there till ~2500rpm or so, and then swing to 42psi...



drove it like that for a while actually, then one day just got bored/tired of waiting so long for the fuel to come in... yanked the plate, ground it flat, and put it back in... 45psi from ~2100 up



I'm sure w/ Jim's monster pump and custom injectors, the slower come-on of the #6 is welcomed, but I didn't like it...



I did tighten my AFC up a little recently, and I think WOT acceleration from lower RPM picked up a little... higher RPM acceleration seems unchanged (still GOOD )



Forrest