Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) GSK installation Question

[xpetecx]

I recently bought a 3k GSK from tst, I was planning on putting it in this weekend but have a few questions. I read on the Peirs site that you can change the springs threw a pipe plug in the side of the pump. seems straight forward enough, but the Instructions I got with the Tst kit tell me to go in threw the top of the pump up off the afc housing and pull out the cam plate. This seem like more work to me. I guess my questions is which way is easier or better to do?



If I go in the top should I slid my stock plate too?



Also the piers intructions, http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm Say to leave the big outer spring in. The Tst instructions say nothing about what to take out and what to leave in. Any help you could give to clear this up would be great

 

[vssman]

Going in through the side almost eliminates dropping/loosing any of the parts into the pump. You may have to slightly loosen/move the shut down lever is you use this method. I've used Pier's instructions w/o any problems.

 

[JHastings]

I am no expert on this, but when I did mine, I went in from the top and only had to remove my shut off solenoid and then I could get at the plug. As far as the 3K gsk, I only took out the two inner springs and the lower spring seats as well as all the shims. I replaced the lower spring seats, put in the two new springs, and then put on the original outer retainers.

Jamie

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I've done it both ways. My personal opinion is that the side is easier. If you go in from the top and drop something into the pump, it could take a really long time to retrieve it. Don't ask how I know.



Jim

 

[K5IP]

I installed the 3GSK springs from the side on my 95 5spd. All quite easy to do. However, and for your consideration:

Before I installed the springs, I had obtained a baseline of boost vs rpm under full load conditions. I took boost data at 1500, 1900, and 2300 rpm under wot conditions.

I was supprsed to find that after installation, my boost was lower by about 4psi under each of the loaded rpm conditions.

After considerable investigation, I found that these changes can be expected because of changes in govenor arm/plate interface changes. It was necessary for me lto move the plate about . 020 forward (stock plate) to return the enging to pre-spring boost at a given rpm.

Now that it is done, I like the GSK kit very well.

Just some additional info to consider. easy to take some data if you have gages, all you need is a big test hill.

By the way, this base data has come in handy in troubleshooting other problems (leaking boost hose).

Rog

 

[GMichaels]

I just did mine. I went in through the side. I got mine from piers, the instructions were to go in from the side.



I would recommend getting a good magnet. I removed the seats, springs and shims with the magnet with no chance of dropping these items. you remove all the springs except for the largest one. I think I took out 3 springs.



took me 2 hours.



greg

 

[CToney]

Gov Springs

I did the plate and gov springs at the same time. I would put the springs in from the side but take your measurements throught the afc housing hole as going through the side is difficult to measure. I was also told that the newer 96 and up and 5sp trucks don't benefit as much from the GSK or trucks running a plate higher than #10 ie 11 or 12. I don't think I would do it again. I wish I could have drove the truck with and without before putting them in. Make sure you have a good magnet and get everything out. I messed up the first time. I still have some govener bounce which I can hopefully fix. I also wouldn't rev past 2700-2800 rpm. My headgasket went south. Maybe I'm a little gunshy but I hate learning the hardway. Maybe with the stock plate you'd be ok.



It's only my opinion



CR Toney

 

[xpetecx]

the majority seems to say go in threw the side. Thanks for all the reply all the info will come in handy.

 

[xpetecx]

well I got it in just now. Just came in form adjusting the idle. wow what a difference it makes. truck is runnin smother too. going in threw the side is the way to go. Thanks for all the help. .

 

[JAmos]

I had already put in a #6 cam plate full forward so I went through the side and it was easy. The hardest part of the whole process was fabbing a tool to remove and install the retainer, but even that wasn't too hard. I just took an old screwdriver with a big tip and cut a notch in it to fit around the stud in the center of the springs.



Jordan

 

[jpogue]

I too just had mine done by a mechanic buddy. The thing that concerned him was the measurement that they want left when tightening the retainer. He said he would have liked the retainer tighter but wanted to keep the exact measurements of 10 and 20 thousands that piers reccomends. I can tell you that it runs a little better now .