Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) GSK installed..having problems

[Erik.Miller]

I insalled my 3K GSK from TST last night and everything seemed to go okay during the install, but the results are not what I anticipated. I must have done something wrong and need some advice. At WOT I am only getting about 2250 RPM. In 3rd gear (I think it was 3rd), it seemed to slowly approach 2500 RPM. During the installation, I did not find any shims. Are there always shims? I left the large spring in place per the instructions, but was wondering if there were possibly shims under the large spring that needed to be removed. My stock measurements from the stud to adjusting nut were approx. . 020 and . 070. On one spring I went back with . 020. On the other spring I went back with . 040. The reason for . 040 is that there was a factory mark aligning the adjusting nut & spring retainer, when I aligned these, I got the . 040. Do I need to make adjustments to my retaining nuts?

Please advice what could cause the low RPM's



Also, my idle RPM (in park) did not change, but my RPM at idle while driving went up to about 900.

I also installed a boost elbow during the GSK install. Do think this had anything to do with the GSK problem, but thought I would mention it.



Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[DSahd]

I have just finished mine and found 1 shim and the setting was at . 060 on each spring set. To make sure there were a total of 4 springs of which you leave the outer spring behind for re-use along with the 2 from your new set. I found my idle went up to 900 after the install, but the pulling power dropped off after 3150 rpm. I also installed the boost elbow and did not mess with the setting from TST. Hopefully someone here will be able to shed better light.

Cheers Derek

 

[Howard Durand]

Check this out: http://www.flex.net/~triplem/new/govspring.htm

It is a good write up on gsk installation.

Hopefully, you can find some help there.

 

[SDrake]

I remember thinking there were no shims when I did mine so I stuck a magnet up in there and out came some more parts. After I got all the parts out and looked things over and reread the instructions I understood better and put everything back as per the instructions and all was good. There were shims in there after all. I would expect that if there are some still in there that there would be a problem. My instructions were with Piers parts.

 

[JDKammin]

There was one shim on each set of my stock springs. I removed the three inner springs and the lower collar. You should have a new lower collar, two new springs and re-install the stock top collar and nut. I think my measurement was around . 070". My truck revs up to at least 3000 rpm.

 

[JoshPeters]

I believe with mine... . I had to remove the big spring to get the shim out. You will definatly need a magnet to get the shim out.



Josh

 

[Erik.Miller]

Thanks for the replies and keep the advice coming. I am going back in for more surgery on the pump this weekend to see if there are shims and recheck the adjusting nut. I pulled out the three stock springs, left the large outer spring and pulled out the lower two-piece bottom seat and found no shims. I also fished around in there with a magnet. Something is defintely not right, so I guess I will recheck everything.



Is there any other reason that my truck would only get 2250 RPM??

Maybe I did something I was unaware of while I was working on it.

 

[JoshPeters]

Also... . I never used the measure method.



Now... I don't remember for 100%, as it's been 2 years since I did mine.



BUT...

I believe it's 2 solid clicks on the adjusters. You feel one that bairly does anything, then 2 more and leave it. Good enough.



Shoot Piers a call. I'm sure those guys will be able to tell you in 30 seconds what's going on.



Josh

 

[Erik.Miller]

Okay, so I went back out to investigate the problem with my GSK install and found my problem. Apparently when I was moving my AFC housing out of the way to access the fuel plate, I broke the hard plastic line that goes from the manifold to the AFC. After a trip to the hardware store for some plastic tubing, I got it fixed and took it back out for a test drive. Man what a difference!!!! The GSK really opened my truck up. Now I am getting the results I expected from my fuel plate. Before the GSK, my only significant power gain from my plate was in OD. Now I have more power in all gears. At WOT, I pegged my 35 psi boost gauge (time for an upgraded gauge) and had to let off the pedal since EGT's were 1400* and climbing. However, my RPM's only maxed out around 2850.



Do I need to tighten my adjusting nuts to get more RPM or is this all that I am going to get?



Also, any suggestions on reducing EGT's. Right now I can't stay at WOT through all gears.

 

[Johnstra]

Glad you got it figured out. It only took me 6 hours to install mine today... mind you 4 hours of that was searching for the retainer nut I dropped It had lodged in a tight spot near the pitman arm Once I found that though everything went smooth. Big Difference :--)

-john

 

[Erik.Miller]

Congrats on your install... sorry to hear about your nut getting lodged. :{ I hate it when that happens!



So how high will your RPM's go now?



and how are your egt's?



I still don't understand the fundamentals as to why my broken boost hose from the manifold to the AFC would cut off my RPM's at 2250.

 

[DESL PWR]

That broken boost hose is bleeding off air to the AFC. Therefore the diaphragm inside is not moving that foot out of the way of the governor lever. Since your governor is not allowed to go full throw and hit the fuel plate, you are limiting the amount of fuel you are pumping and hence limiting rpm.

 

[Johnstra]

Mine will rev to 3k easily and I won't take it past that (that's plenty for me ) My EGTs get up there quick too - 1300*+. With a stock turbo, exhaust, and intake that is to be expected. Like DESL said, the broken hose prevented your AFC from operating correctly so you were not fueling.

-john