Guage Install Questions (Very Specific)

[EHerrling]

Hey everyone,



I finally got a three gauge setup (Dipricol with the dash top gauge pod) from DieselManor (EGT, Boost and Trans Temp) and have a couple of questions that weren't answered in instructions.



1. For the Boost Bolt - Should I use some form of threadlocker/sealant to attach the bolt to the engine? What about attaching the brass "boost tube fittings" to the Boost Bolt? I have read that people have used RTV sealant, but that doesn't seem like the right application.



2. While dry fitting everything together, it seems the "boost tube" is loose in the brass fittings, however it looks like there is a crush washer that will cramp down around the tube holding it in place when tightened. Is this the case?



3. I also got the cooler line with sender port. Should I use any threadlocker/sealer for this? What about for the temperature sender attaching to the port?



4. For those of you that got the Dashtop Gauge Pod, did yours come with a metal bracket to attach it to the dash? Mine didn't. But I did get some screws in the bag. I can fab one up I am pretty sure, but if there is a ready made bracket out there, I want to save myself some time.



Thanks in advance for your help, hopefully I can get everything right on the first try. My wife is even excited to see what they look like once installed.

 

[TJarecke]

1. Use some sort of sealant on most all my fittings.
2. The fitting will hold the tube once you tighten it down
3. I would use thread locker here too.
4. Don't have one.

 

[jelag]

Do not allow the thread sealant to contact any plastic lines... . the material in most thread sealants will cause the plastic lines to get brittle... We use DOT air lines for our installations and they caution against contact with thread sealants... (liquids) not teflon tape...

 

[LSteiner]

>>4. For those of you that got the Dashtop Gauge Pod, did yours come with a metal bracket to attach it to the dash? Mine didn't. But I did get some screws in the bag. I can fab one up I am pretty sure, but if there is a ready made bracket out there, I want to save myself some time. <<



The one I got from Genos came with a U shaped bracket. It screws to the dash (it may have

come with doubled sided tape for mounting to dash but I used screws). Then there should

be two screws to mount the pod to the vertical sides of the bracket.



It is possible your pod is different from the kind I got from Genos. The part number I got

is GM-DG-15020 Catalog #57 page 14

 

[robmints]

I got the autometer pod from DM and it came with a bracket. If I were you I would try and get one. It will save you some time. Might check out this post too.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...cussions/142109-3-gauge-install-write-up.html

 

[PBrauer]

Hey everyone,



I finally got a three gauge setup (Dipricol with the dash top gauge pod) from DieselManor (EGT, Boost and Trans Temp) and have a couple of questions that weren't answered in instructions.



1. For the Boost Bolt - Should I use some form of threadlocker/sealant to attach the bolt to the engine? What about attaching the brass "boost tube fittings" to the Boost Bolt? I have read that people have used RTV sealant, but that doesn't seem like the right application.



2. While dry fitting everything together, it seems the "boost tube" is loose in the brass fittings, however it looks like there is a crush washer that will cramp down around the tube holding it in place when tightened. Is this the case?



3. I also got the cooler line with sender port. Should I use any threadlocker/sealer for this? What about for the temperature sender attaching to the port?



4. For those of you that got the Dashtop Gauge Pod, did yours come with a metal bracket to attach it to the dash? Mine didn't. But I did get some screws in the bag. I can fab one up I am pretty sure, but if there is a ready made bracket out there, I want to save myself some time.



Thanks in advance for your help, hopefully I can get everything right on the first try. My wife is even excited to see what they look like once installed.

Although I haven't bought anything from them yet I did talk to DM on the phone once... Call them up. I am 100% certain they'll tell you what's best for all of these concerns. Having said that:



1) I wouldn't use anything on the boost bolt to the "engine". The end goes down into the manifold... no need to risk getting debris in there. Just try to get reasonably close to the proper torque spec. and it should be fine.



When assembling NPT (pipe) threads, sealant is always a good idea but it doesn't take much. Start applying 1-2 threads from the end to minimize the amount that is at risk of ending up inside the "system". Use teflon tape or a liquid thread sealant... Do NOT use RTV, especially not here. Using RTV in place of sealant/tape is usually an attempt to seal threads that need to be replaced. Not saying I haven't done it myself but totally unecessary here.



2) The part you mentioned here is called a ferrule. It will seem loose until assembled AND tightened. A common mistake is to overtighten the compression nut which deforms the ferrule and/or crushes or deforms the tubing. Once again, careful and deliberate assembly is all it takes to get it right. It should only slightly compress the tubing. Once the tubing starts to compress it will be more than tight enough to seal the metal-metal surfaces.



3) The ends of the cooler line are compression fittings. No need for sealant on the ends. The "manifold" installed by DM will probably have a 1/8" NPT thread for your sending unit. It should have sealant. Keep in mind that 1/8" threads also don't need much torque and are easily damaged as well.



Also, take a good look at the fitting on the "cooler" end of your new line. Your cooler will have an adapter mounted between the compression fitting and the cooler itself. You need to remove the line from the adapter (compression) NOT the adapter from the cooler (NPT, I believe, but might be O-ring). Easy mistake to make since your arm will probably block your view while working up there. The compression fittings may be tight at first but will become "instantly" loose once they start to turn. Try to remember that "feeling" or "tightness" for reassembly. Try not to bust your knuckles when it finally pops loose either. You should "back up" the adapter but it's almost imposible to get two arms up there by yourself. Probably best for one person to hold one wrench through the wheel well while the other person holds/turns one from the bottom.



4) The dash pod should have included a simple bracket. I'm sure DM would replace it if missing. Personally, I didn't bother using that bracket. Looked like it would be a PITA and I wanted to be able to get to the insides quickly and easily. Mine doesn't move much at all unsecured but eventually I'll fabricate something from the outside (or maybe not... ). I'm more concerned with function and access than cosmetics. My wiring and tubing just go accross the dash then down between the pillar and dash. I wraped the wires with elec. tape and I also used a 1/4" OD urethane tubing (Black, from Parker) so it doesn't look that bad anyway. This way I can work with the pod while sitting "normally" in the seat or standing in the door. If you saw my dash you'd understand why this is of little concern to me... I'm half tempted to hold it there with black duct tape but even that is hard to justify... it just doesn't move enough.



Good luck. Gauges are a great idea for everyone. You'll learn a lot from them. Kind of wish I'd gone with the Pricol's myself and definately wish I'd gotten DM's trans/cooler line which would have saved me "much" trouble building one from scratch... The temp's in that line are far more dynamic than in the pan... definately worth the extra trouble.

 

[EHerrling]

Gauges Installed!!!!!!

Ok, so I just finished the installation and have a couple of observations for those that want to install gauges and a question or two for those that have already finished. Took a quick drive around the block and the needles moved and nothing is dripping or hissing or blew up so I feel pretty good right now.



1. Drilling and tapping your manifold isn't that tough. Once you get the first pilot hole in, you are committed so just take your time and make sure to practice cleanliness (use a magnet and vacuum each drill bit change. ) a 90* drill or adapter helps and I would think is a necessity. Also, make sure your drill bits are shorter than standard, I had to cut the shank off of one so it would fit.



2. IF YOU ARE USING A MODIFIED HOSE FOR TRANSMISSION TEMP, TRANS FLUID WILL COME OUT AS SOON AS YOU LOOSEN THE BOLTS. WORK QUICKLY OVER CARDBOARD WITH A LOT OF RAGS. Thankfully my wife is understanding about the ATF slick in our driveway right now. Anybody got any ideas how to get ATF off of concrete? I think I lost about a cup or two of ATF, can I drive to Kragen for more without any damage?



3. If you do this over two days and disconnect your batteries for the whole weekend you will throw a P2509 - Powerdown Data Lost Error. It will scare you because your truck will start for a few seconds then die. Disconnect the neg cables, reconnect them and start it up. It will go away after a few key cycles.



Now my question - I hooked my LED power switch (DiPricol gauges) to Pin #1 (WT/LG wire) on my headlamp switch. Lights don't work when I turn on the headlamps. The Dieselmanor instructions say to hook up to the dimmer switch (not what I did) but the Danin instruction say to hook up to the dimmer switch, which works?



Thanks to everyone that posted their instructions and advice to do this. It helped a whole bunch.