Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) guages

[AHunter]

i was planning on puting a 3 guage a-pillar mount on my 97 CTD with trans egt and boost, i was wondering if i bought the "kit" from genos garage does it come with everything needed and how hard is the install. any suggestions i would appreciate. and also what brand of guages. and what about the X Monitor by BD Power (Three Measuring Instruments In One Gauge) from genos

 

[WDixon27]

i got my isspro's and pod from genos, i wound up needing a couple extra 1/8 compression fittings (the little cones) and because i did a uncommon thing by putting a fuel pressure gauge in a 12 valve i was on my own for where/how to hook the gauge, i drilled and tapped the output side banjo bolt on the top of the spin on fuel filter housing

#ad


i have a 60 psi fp gauge now and after a few more bombs ill need a larger boost gauge too, i finally pegged it the other day but only just

 

[Joe G.]

I tapped the input banjo fitting to the injection pump. That location is out of the way. It does not interfere with bleeding air from the filter if you need to.

 

[MacMc]

I JUST FINISHED installing ISSPRO gauges on the pillar in my 96. I bought the kit from Diesel Manor. They assemble everything and include extra wiring and connectors and their own set of instructions which are more accurate and complete so you don't need to go through the individual guage instructions. Perhaps Geno's does this as well.



It was a little difficult to fit the 4-wire connectors behind the pillar where the wiring connected to the gauges, but I did get it done. I believe this is part of the preassembly that Diesel Manor does; there are probably some better ways.



I put in the Boost, Pyro, and transmission gauges. I have the AST exhaust manifold to still install, so that probe's not in yet, and I'm ordering a new transmission tank, so that probe isn't in yet either.



I didn't bother to paint it, just left the pillar black, so I can't comment on how well it holds the paint.



BTW, It took me a while to figure out that I keep the factory pillar piece, too, and the new one goes on top of it, so don't break it taking it out. It snaps free pretty easily, though.



The factory service manual was invaluable for learning how to remove the dash trim to access behind the headlight switch for the dimmer wire. It's the smallest of the wires there, but verify everything with a test light.



I found the best place to access the 12V ignition "ON" wire was just as it entered the fuse box from the back side. I took the prefused wire and then immediately added the inline fuse included with the kit.

 

[Diesel Manor]

Hi MacMc,

We've just updated our instructions. Perhaps you rec'd the previous verson. The new ones mention that the gauge mount goes over the factory pillar, etc... If you have any suggestions or comments on how we can improve our kits and instructions let me know. Thanks.



Dave

 

[MacMc]

Hi MacMc,

We've just updated our instructions. Perhaps you rec'd the previous verson. The new ones mention that the gauge mount goes over the factory pillar, etc... If you have any suggestions or comments on how we can improve our kits and instructions let me know. Thanks.



Dave

Thanks, Dave. I think I had the current instruction, but my confusion was that I was thinking the "pillar" was the steel piece in the truck and not the plastic trim piece I just took off. It wasn't until I got to the picture of drilling the holes in it that I realized you meant the trim piece.



I'd just recommend some smaller 4-wire connectors, and maybe a few more inches for all those leads that were preassembled. I didn't have much choice when it came to where to mount the driving boxes, just because the wires wouldn't let me get anywhere else.



Also, what's the possibility of getting one of those probes that goes into my transmission dipstick that I just learned about? That might be preferred until I just go ahead and get the new Goerend or ATS or something in a year or so.



I'm installing the ATS exhaust manifold tomorrow morning, so then my transmission gauge will be the only one still not working yet.



Wow, I'm sure glad I got the 60psi Boost gauge. I had no idea my truck could make 34psi of boost when I don't even quite floor it. And it's just a #6 plate and 15. 5 degrees of timing with everything else stock that I know of. It would probably really take off if I had a decent transmission.

 

[ScottLewis]

MACMc:

"Also, what's the possibility of getting one of those probes that goes into my transmission dipstick that I just learned about?"

I note that Geno's now sells an Acu Temp adapter that clamps on the outside of the output transmission cooler line and accepts the 1/8" temp sender unit. It's similar to one I made and am quite happy with its acuracy and response speed. The biggest advantage is that you don't need to open any cooler lines or have wires inhibiting the dipstick when checking fluid levels. Geno's cost is $32 for the adapter. Page 1 of the new catalog.



Dan

 

[AHunter]

anything about the X Monitor by BD Power

 

[ttbird]

Have had mine for about three years. Works good though sometimes it's hard to read due to bright sunshine. Some have made a hood. I just use my hand. It really doesn't happen all that often. I like the X Monitor because it's small and has three gauges with max. and alarm settings. Though gauges are cool too.

 

[Bart]

One thing that isn't in the kit is a can of color match for the plastic. The main problem (minor) was fishing the wire and boost tube down through the passenger compartment into the engine bay.

One thing I'd say is that running without those gauges is begging for trouble. Climbing "any" hill with a stock auto (under 45 mph) and the trans temp go through the 250* roof. Lugging your engine can drive the exhaust temps to the point of engine damage if continued. Even a stock setup. Bombing can be even more dangerous. That's what I'm working threw right now.

As for where to put the trans temp probe. I got a new trans cooler line from a 94 (I think). $100 approximately, but it has an extra port in the line for the proble and it reads real time temps as apossed to in the oil pan which is the coolest part of the system.