Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Guages

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Straight piped

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission slipping????

Status
Not open for further replies.
I search most of the day today looking for the best answer for this question,,,,,,,,,, so those that preach "search the archives" i tried,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i'm doing guages,,,, egt and boost,,,, bought auto meter phantoms,,,,,, thought they looked pretty cool,,,, (planning on doing the rest of the dash in white face) boost is easy,(founf that with search) EGT is my question,,, I have heard the debate over pre or post turbo,,, think i want to do pre turbo,,, how hard is it going to be to drill and tap cast iron,,,,,,, where is the best place to put them,,,,, if i do post turbo,,,,, i'm looking at 1 1/2hr install time, tops,,,,, pre sounds harder,,,,,,,,



I also bought the autometer two guage pod for the A pillar,,,,, i have heard some say to use it with the stock,,,,,, others say dont,,,,, looking for opions and ideas form the hundreds of you that have already done this



Thanks



Trey
 
I put mine pre and it probably took all of 30 minutes to drill and tap. The easiest way is to measure the distance across the exhaust manifold where it meets the turbo divide in two then go quarter the measurement. If you use the forward quarter to drill and tap you'll read the temp from cyl 1-3, use the other quarter and it will be cyl 4-6. Just don't drill through the center of the manifold, there's a support web there and it will be hell. Do a search for pyro installs. One of the threads from a few years back gave a really good step by step and provided pictures...
 
Pre turbo i believe is so much better. You are concerned about the heat that is going to effect your manifold and turbo housing, so you want a very accurate reading. Usually the back cylindes run a little hotter, i would install the probe in the outlet for those cylinders. Take the turbo off and you can see exactly where you want to drill and tap. Usually the fitting is a 1/4 in pipe fitting and people say to use 7/16 to drill it and then tap it. I like to use a 29/64 drill bit. Cast iron is brittle at times and can crack. Take your time when doing this; the slower you go, the safer you are. Try and make sure there is not fragments in the manifold anywhere and the reinstall the turbo.
 
Cast iron will drill easily if you have a sharp bit and use a cutting fluid. The links given above will help you get the location.



Running the wires through the firewall is the toughest part.



By the way, I hope you are better at running a power drill than you are at searching the forums:)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top