Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Guide me in the right direction: Longevity and power

[ArtVandalay]

Well, despite my recent crank seal issues I am head over heels for my new truck. Coming from a 94 12v auto this 98 12v 5 speed feels like a Ferrari.

That being said, I do want a slight increase in power. I would be entirely happy with somewhere between 250-300 HP. I understand how easy ti is to get to 400 hp but I just don't need it or the decreased life expectancy of parts. I am very easy on my truck and hope to get about 400-450k miles out of it before needing any major work. It currently has 71k miles.

I will likely have a Dodge mechanic replace the crank seal this week, the KDP has been tabbed. I have an EGT and boost gauge that should be installed within the next 2 weeks or so.

Right now I am thinking of having the mechanic increase the timing to about 15* to help power and mileage. I will likely never tow anything and have nothing more than a few boxes of household goods in the bed. ( I bought the truck because I've always wanted one and love the idea of driving one truck for 20 years). Would this be worth while or would I just be increasing the possibility of head gasket failure?

I currently have a BHAF. I have a 4" exhaust on my other truck but am starting to think I don't want or need it on this 98. I plan on putting a 3" straight trough muffler on the stock exhaust just to give it that turbo flutter and better sound. From what I understand this will give me a drop in EGT. Based on my reading, going to a 4" will have no benefit over keeping the stock 3" with a straight muffler welded in, correct?

I have also been looking at the TST #12 power kit. There is a big jump in power between the #12 and #11. The #11 seems about perfect for what I would want, but #12 seems much "safer". Is a #11 kit safe for a stock clutch with a BHAF? I plan on upgrading the clutch in the future, but likely not until I hit 150k miles ( unless of course it doesn't last that long).

The NV4500...I wanted a 5 speed the entire time I drove my 94 auto. Now I have it and love it; I plan on putting a filter kit on the PTO cover ( on its way) and changing fluid every 50-60k miles. From reading online it seems as though everyone thinks the NV4500 is a weak kneed ticking time bomb. Is it really that bad of a transmission? Also, regarding 5th gear nut failure, are there any definitive tips for keeping it on? Currently I only use 5th when doing 50 MPH or better....what exactly is considered lugging?

Sorry for all the questions, but after weeks of reading I would appreciate some confirmation to what I have learned and suggestions.

 

[GAmes]

Here my opinions, based on my truck (which I've owned since new) and over a decade participating in two or three forums. I ran a #11 plate for quite a few hundred thousand miles while towing all types of trailers all over the country. I found a better plate for towing (my portion starts at post #5) http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...dynomite-fuel-plate-cost-why.html#post5540081 I never slipped the stock clutch with the #11 plate, and it put me in the HP range you are looking for.

I experimented with different timing settings and settled at 15* BTDC. The timing you need depends on your engine, how you drive it and at what RPM you spend the majority of your time. Since the majority of my miles are highway, at about 1800-2000 rpm, hooked to a trailer I get the optimum mileage and performance compromise at that setting. There is no "one size fits all" so rather than pay a mechanic to set it I suggest you spend the same amount of money for a timing kit and learn to do it yourself.

Every time I read an excessive blowby thread it seems the writer has a BHAF. Since that is a generic term, there is no way to pin down the quality of the filter. There is currently a guy in WA who is working on a 10,000 mile test to see if his filter can beat my filter's oil analysis of 2ppm silicon after 12,000 miles. I don't think it will happen.

I have a 3inch Walker muffler in my shop that I was using until the exhaust pipe rusted away. My EGTs did not change when I installed a stainless MBRP 4". If you were close by I'd give you the muffler.

I went through 12 NV4500s before I did my G56 conversion. It was never designed for commercial use. A couple of them were warrantied replacements, so 10 is a better number for just plain wearing out. I've had the G56 for over 300k with no issues other than replacing an input bearing. In your case, the NV4500 should give you years of good service. My 5th gear nut fell off around 86k. Other than having to drive home from ND with only 4 gears it wasn't a big deal. If it falls off get a fully splined mainshaft and you will be set. More than likely the trans will be due for a refresh then anyway.

 

[ArtVandalay]

Wow...thanks GAmes for such an awesome response. I've seen your name quite a bit while reading all the forums....

I think and hope you're right about the NV4500. Like I said before my truck will be a DD, even on Atlanta highways I rarely go any faster than about 60 MPH. My rev band is usually between 1600-2000.

If only I was still stationed in Abilene...I'd love to use that muffler. I do appreciate the offer!

What air filter are you using? I currently have a Donaldson BHAF with the outerwears cover on it. I have a read a few negative things about the BHAF in general but didn't pay it too much attention since they are overwhelmingly endorsed. That doesn't mean it's right, of course....I'll have to do some more reading.

Looks like a #11 kit will put me exactly where I want...

 

[GAmes]

My filter choice is the AFE Proguard 7 which can be had in several configurations. When I bought it it was sold by Genos IIRC. They now sell Airaid products which are similar.

 

[ArtVandalay]

My filter choice is the AFE Proguard 7 which can be had in several configurations. When I bought it it was sold by Genos IIRC. They now sell Airaid products which are similar.

Would a drop in AFE filter like that still be useful in a stock airbox? I can't quite swallow $408 for an intake...The BHAF type filter with the heat shield is more palatable.

Also, from my turbo BMW and DSM days, I was under the impression that any oiled filter on a turbo engine was a bad idea...is that not the case?

 

[GAmes]

If you are the "more is better" type and over oil the filter, I suppose so. I can tell you it works for me, I've had it for more than a half million miles. I have no experience with drop ins, but I do know what an engine overhaul costs. It is more than $408, but I didn't have to cough it up until the engine had 800k on it, and even then it wasn't due to blowby. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...g-an-800-000-mile-engine?highlight=dissecting

 

[ArtVandalay]

Well then it looks like I should heed your advice and go for the full intake setup. I'll just run the Donaldson BHAF until I can cough up that $408 for the AFE. Right now I have a crank seal to fix and whole bunch of fluids to change....

 

[GAmes]

I'm flattered, but mine is only one story. Perhaps there is a member with over 500k using a BHAF and getting low numbers on their oil samples. I only have 200k on the current engine.

 

[ArtVandalay]

I'm flattered, but mine is only one story. Perhaps there is a member with over 500k using a BHAF and getting low numbers on their oil samples. I only have 200k on the current engine.

True, but there aren't many stories like yours. So much of what is on the internet is conjecture....it is nice to be able to use the knowledge gained by someone who has already put many more miles on their truck and done the testing...