Gulf Coast Bypass Filter

[rconti]

I would like to hear from those of you that have installed the GCF. Where did you mount it? How is it working? How hard was it to install? How long have you had it in operation? Would you buy it again?



Thanks

 

[Pthomas]

YEAH! ME TOO!!!!

 

[Cooker]

I think the cost of this thing should be enough to scare most guys away. For the money they get for them there are some very high end ByPass filters.



If you like the TP roll or paper towel filters, you might consider a Frantz filter instead. Much less money, and I see no reason, why they would be less effective.



JMHO,

Ryan

 

[HC]

One thing seldom mentioned in bypass filter discussions is pros and cons of the different styles. My spin:

GCF, Frantz - They work, cheapest element replacement, but more frequent service interval

Amsoil single - easy to service, long service interval, but more expensive filters ($23 from my current source)

Amsoil dual - easier to change full flow filter as well as bypass; but you will see less than stock oil pressure, and you may hear some humming noises at certain rpms

Oilguard/Racor - not as easy to service as Amsoil's spin on, but has reasonable service intervals (at least 10k, probably more with analysis), and replacement elements are $6 to $13 depending on source, putting halfway between the Spin-ons and paper filters in cost

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but maybe it will help someone who is still in the research mode...

 

[Pthomas]

Thanks HC!

More than i knew of them. Im looking towards the oilgaurd for more info!

Thanks a bunch!

 

[SlyBones]

Where and how much on the Frantz?

 

[redram]

Originally posted by HC

One thing seldom mentioned in bypass filter discussions is pros and cons of the different styles. My spin:

GCF, Frantz - They work, cheapest element replacement, but more frequent service interval

Amsoil single - easy to service, long service interval, but more expensive filters ($23 from my current source)

Amsoil dual - easier to change full flow filter as well as bypass; but you will see less than stock oil pressure, and you may hear some humming noises at certain rpms

Oilguard/Racor - not as easy to service as Amsoil's spin on, but has reasonable service intervals (at least 10k, probably more with analysis), and replacement elements are $6 to $13 depending on source, putting halfway between the Spin-ons and paper filters in cost

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but maybe it will help someone who is still in the research mode...

I have the Oilgurad and see no reason to change any sooner than once per year or 25K and this is conservative. Running with RP 15W40, I had TBN of over 10 at 22K on the Oilguard filter.



By the way, the 'best' type of bypass filter you could put on your truck would be a centrifugal filter to spin out the soot particles. Unfortunately, these tend to be more expensive.



How did you come up with 10K figure?

Cummins recommends 18K on a B Series Engine in a Class 5 truck running on standard filters.

 

[WadePatton]

TTT ******GCF

My neighbor just ordered a GCF for his 12v. I'm very interested in checking it out/helping him install it.



I've been planning a bypass filter for my truck, just hadn't had time to research it.



This is the first I've heard of the GCF. I think he paid $395 for it.



Anybody else running one?

 

[redram]

Originally posted by HC

One thing seldom mentioned in bypass filter discussions is pros and cons of the different styles. My spin:

GCF, Frantz - They work, cheapest element replacement, but more frequent service interval

Amsoil single - easy to service, long service interval, but more expensive filters ($23 from my current source)

Amsoil dual - easier to change full flow filter as well as bypass; but you will see less than stock oil pressure, and you may hear some humming noises at certain rpms

Oilguard/Racor - not as easy to service as Amsoil's spin on, but has reasonable service intervals (at least 10k, probably more with analysis), and replacement elements are $6 to $13 depending on source, putting halfway between the Spin-ons and paper filters in cost

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but maybe it will help someone who is still in the research mode...

You all are very conservative if you're changing the Oilguard at 10K. I've been running mine at 25K and could probably go 50K.



My god, the standard oil filter from Fleetguard will probably go 10K!

 

[bmoeller]

http://www.gulfcoastfilter.com/prices.htm

 

[Midnite]

Originally posted by HC

One thing seldom mentioned in bypass filter discussions is pros and cons of the different styles. My spin:

GCF, Frantz - They work, cheapest element replacement, but more frequent service interval

This isn't correct--GCF sells *three* sizes of bypass filters, the O-1, the O-2, and the O-1 Jr. The O-1 Jr. is the small one that takes a roll of TP and requires an element change somewhere between 2,000 and 5,000 miles (depending on your goals). The O-1 Jr. costs about $165.



The O-1 is much bigger and takes a roll of paper towels. Due to its large size, it also increases your engine's lube oil capacity by *six* quarts. This one needs an element change every 10,000 to 20,000 miles, and costs about $400.



The O-2 is *really* big and is way overkill for our engines. Like the model number implies, it's twice the size of the O-1 and takes two paper towel rolls. Put one of these puppies on and your oil system now takes 24 quarts of oil! That, in addition to getting good bypass filtration. The O-2 appears to be about $550.



I realize I'm kind of ranting when I say this (and it's NOT aimed at anyone in particular), but EVERY thread I've ever read on the TDR contains the same bad information--that GCF only makes one bypass filter, that it's insanely expensive, and that you have to service the thing all the time. I have no idea where this comes from--one look at the price page tells you that there are three sizes of engine oil filters and that they're completely different.



I don't yet have a bypass filter on my truck, but I've already decided that when I do, it'll be a GCF O-1.



Oh, and one thing to keep in mind to put this all into perspective--every million-mile Dodge Ram with a Cummins that I've ever read about has never made any changes to the stock oil system. Nothing but good oil and filters, and regular service intervals.



Mike

 

[GWHaley]

WOW, those paper engineers must have really known what they were doing when they engineered paper towels and t. p. !!

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by GWHaley

WOW, those paper engineers must have really known what they were doing when they engineered paper towels and t. p. !!

My uncles friend calls the tough TP, John Wayne TP.



Rough, tough, and don't take no crap off of nobody! :-laf :-laf

 

[WadePatton]

More on GCF

I have found that if you shop around you can get the big GCF PT filter for $300.



Oil supply comes right off the filter head, yes.



Now where are you bypass guys sending it back? Some use pan, some use valve cover. Some drill/tap, some use fittings. Oilguard has a fitting to replace the pan plug. FS-2500 folks prefer the valve cover. Some folks don't like the extra "wash" from dumping it in up top.



I'll probably use the pan, whether I drill it or use the plug fitting is undecided.



And Lawrence mounted the filter to the frame under the passenger side near the seat.