Guys, I need your advice...

[JCleary]

I got a Fluidampr during the group buy. I was being lazy and had it installed by the shop that was doing my U-joints. All was good for a week or so. Then it seemed like the dampener was less effective. I convinced myself it was in my head and kept driving. I pull up to my shop today and shut the truck off, only to hear a Crack-Ping!



I found one of the bolts holding the damper on the pavement, and two of the remaining 3 loose, one only on by 1 thread. Thank god I wasn't on the road to Tahoe tonight!



I tightened the bolts and pulled into the shop. I took off the belt, dampener and tone ring, only to discover some damage. I'm not sure i want to reinstall any of it. My tone ring has been "modified" so it moves a couple of degrees on the locating pin. So has the Fluidampr. And the pin is bent.



I'll attach some pics...



Pic 1 shows the Fluidampr where it mates with the Flywheel. The anodizing has been worn off from movement, and the holes now have threads.



Pic 2 Shows the tone ring. Elongated locating hole, and the surface is distorted.



Pic 3 Shows the locating pin coming out at an angle.



I'm at a loss as to what to do. With the elongated hole and the bent pin, there's definitely a couple of degrees timing change, and I think it's retarding the timing. The surfaces of the two parts are not flat any longer. I'll have to grind them to be flat. Plus, where's all that oil coming from? The seal is good, it seems to be leaking out from the bolt holes.



What do you think?

 

[TCluff]

I got a Fluidampr during the group buy. I was being lazy and had it installed by the shop that was doing my U-joints. All was good for a week or so. Then it seemed like the dampener was less effective. I convinced myself it was in my head and kept driving. I pull up to my shop today and shut the truck off, only to hear a Crack-Ping!



I found one of the bolts holding the damper on the pavement, and two of the remaining 3 loose, one only on by 1 thread. Thank god I wasn't on the road to Tahoe tonight!



I tightened the bolts and pulled into the shop. I took off the belt, dampener and tone ring, only to discover some damage. I'm not sure i want to reinstall any of it. My tone ring has been "modified" so it moves a couple of degrees on the locating pin. So has the Fluidampr. And the pin is bent.



I'll attach some pics...



Pic 1 shows the Fluidampr where it mates with the Flywheel. The anodizing has been worn off from movement, and the holes now have threads.



Pic 2 Shows the tone ring. Elongated locating hole, and the surface is distorted.



Pic 3 Shows the locating pin coming out at an angle.



I'm at a loss as to what to do. With the elongated hole and the bent pin, there's definitely a couple of degrees timing change, and I think it's retarding the timing. The surfaces of the two parts are not flat any longer. I'll have to grind them to be flat. Plus, where's all that oil coming from? The seal is good, it seems to be leaking out from the bolt holes.



What do you think?

i would replace the dowell pin, tone ring, and bolts, then reinstall myself and torque bolts to factory spec...

 

[Mundgyver]

This is one reason why I do all my own maintenance other than tires. The shop probably just slapped it on with a hammer.

 

[JCleary]

What about the oil leaking out of the bolt holes?

 

[Mundgyver]

I would rinse them out and then dry them with a rag. Take an inspection mirror and look very close for cracking and also check the seal. Could this oil be from the fluid damper itself? Don't know, maybe the guys that put on for you had gurbby handing methods? Don't know. My point is, clean up and inspect it very close for further leakage or damage. In my mind the individual that put this on for you, did not do you any favors.

 

[jwilliams3]

There shouldnt be any oil coming out of the bolt holes since they are blind.

If there are cracks or damage, I guess it could be possible. But still highly unlikely.



My questions:

Is your crank shaft face true?



Is the dampers inner face still true and not bent?



What are the condition of the bolts?



Did it deform the crank nipple which extends into the damper and tone ring?



If that pin hole isnt wallered out too much you can tap that pin back in with a hammer if you are going to re-use.

You might check for play in the hole while the pin is in place.



The seal dust cover is what you are seeing and can be removed and re-used easily. So you can just pry it off gently with a screwdriver or the like and check the seal which is pressed inside of the gear case cover. If it is ok then you can just re-install the dust cover by pushing it back on with your fingers. Your oil seal should be ok though unless your crankshaft is warped or damaged in a bad way.



From the way it looks just by the pictures, I think you are going to be alright if you just put everything back together lined up as best as possible and torque correctly. Its your call though, you might want to use new bolts and a new pin though.



The torque spec on those bolts is 165 Newton Meters if using a torque wrench (thats what I torqued mine to also).

I also overchecked them twice, all were good and tight.



You are probably going to need a barring tool to get the engine to stay still for you while torquing the damper bolts.



In the situation your in I would be ready to put that fluid damper through someones face!! :-laf



Please keep us posted.

 

[JCleary]

Thanks for the advice. I answered below in blue.

There shouldnt be any oil coming out of the bolt holes since they are blind.

If there are cracks or damage, I guess it could be possible. But still highly unlikely.



I'm not sure where it's coming from. On two of the bolts the bottom of the bolt was wet, and the part near the head was dry.



My questions:

Is your crank shaft face true?



I believe it is.



Is the dampers inner face still true and not bent?



The face is slightly raised at the dowel pin hole, as well as on the two holes where the bolts created threads. I plan on using a dremel to make it flat again.



What are the condition of the bolts?



They look ok, but I ordered new ones today, along with a tone ring and dowel pin.



Did it deform the crank nipple which extends into the damper and tone ring?



Yup, it's bent. I'll be replacing it if I can get it out. It's jammed in there pretty securely.



If that pin hole isnt wallered out too much you can tap that pin back in with a hammer if you are going to re-use.

You might check for play in the hole while the pin is in place.



The seal dust cover is what you are seeing and can be removed and re-used easily. So you can just pry it off gently with a screwdriver or the like and check the seal which is pressed inside of the gear case cover. If it is ok then you can just re-install the dust cover by pushing it back on with your fingers. Your oil seal should be ok though unless your crankshaft is warped or damaged in a bad way.



From the way it looks just by the pictures, I think you are going to be alright if you just put everything back together lined up as best as possible and torque correctly. Its your call though, you might want to use new bolts and a new pin though.



The torque spec on those bolts is 165 Newton Meters if using a torque wrench (thats what I torqued mine to also).

I also overchecked them twice, all were good and tight.



You are probably going to need a barring tool to get the engine to stay still for you while torquing the damper bolts.



In the situation your in I would be ready to put that fluid damper through someones face!! :-laf



Please keep us posted.

My parts are arriving on Tuesday. I'll give it a go then. I'll hopefully have an update. Thanks.