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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard Start after sitting for a week

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Why-why-why?????

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I know that this has been discussed alot on the Forums but none of the ones that I read had the same symptons:



The truck did great pulling a 30 foot trailer for 3000 miles and then I parked it in the driveway for about two weeks. Since then, I might drive it 3 times a month.



It takes about 20 seconds or so of cranking before it fires up, then it runs fine. After I drive it somewhere and shut it off, it might only take 10 seconds to start but that is still quite a bit longer than normal.



On the initial crank, it pulls a pretty good on the batteries and then it cranks at a decent speed.



I have a FASS, AFE, 4", and some 275's but that's about it.

Fuel pressure idles at about 13 and drives at 12

about 138,000 miles
 
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Weak batteries will make it slower to start. I would start there.



Make sure the lift pump starts running immediately when you turn the key on.
 
Sure sounds like you are sucking air in some where with in the fuel system. I see you have replaced the Lift pump with a FASS. Have you replaced any other of the original fuel lines or connectors? If not I would replace the factory plastic fuel lines and connectors with good quality components.



Buy the way how many miles on it now.
 
I have to agree with RAJohnson. I had the same problem with my 95. Turned out to be a small length of fuel line. After sitting over night, look for spots of diesel on the floor.
 
New batteries.



I looked for leaks or wet spots the first time it didn't want to start - I'll check again.



I have the full FASS system and have the hose replaced all the way to the injection pump.



Have about 138,000 on it.
 
You might also look for weeping at fittings. They will not necessarily weep enough to drip, but I think there is still air getting in.



I have basically the same thing. If she sits for more than about 4 days without a start, the next start takes a little longer. Generally fine after the first start though.



As an aside: I opened up my fuel system to reroute a fuel cooler about 2 weeks ago. I ran an air purge (VP fitting back to the tank) several times and thought I had it all. The last 2 weeks the hobbs switch will turn on the lp while driving because an air bubble has gotten to the RASP pump. The RASP pump processes the air bubbles and then brings up the psi to normal, but for a few seconds the psi drops to the lp psi. You may think you have all the air out, BUT...
 
rweis has a good point. A fitting may be leaking. It may not be obvious because it may not leave a puddle.

I have a weeping injector fitting (or two). It's not an obvious leak. It only occurs when I'm driving. I have replacement lines sitting in a box, but I've been putting off replacing them.

I always park facing downhill. The truck will start fine. If I park uphill, then it will have to crank for a little while. No biggie, but people look at you like you're driving a Furd. :-laf



P. S. Tightening them up to stop the leak is usually the wrong thing to do. They usually start leaking because they were over-tightened in the first place. Don't ask me how I know. :(



Stock torque at the fittings is 28 Ft. -Lbs.
 
You can change your starter brushes for dirt cheap. I believe I bought my rebuild kit on Ebay.



P. S. Don't forget to clean the "gaps" in the armature.
 
I looked for leaks and found nothing. I checked while it was running and while it was shut down for anyplace that might have a wet spot but couldn't find anything.



I think is is turning over slower than it should. I checked the battery connections and I think that I am going to change the brushes on the starter now. Where is the best place to get the brushes? Ebay?
 
I think there is someone here on TDR that does starter brushes and contacts. I would trust them a whole bunch more than EBay.



Bob Weis
 
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