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Hard start issues

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Pacbrake installation on 05 auto

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Ok, I’m needing a little help. I have a 04’ that has a FASS that is hard starting. I have changed the rail pressure sensor, fuel pressure relief valve and fuel control actuator along with filters and still hard starting. Rail pressure is at 6000 idling and ramps up to 15-24000 under load. I just had my batteries load tested and they are good. What next? I have 320k on the truck at this time. Looking what I need to do next.
 
I appreciate it, I believe that may be the option that is on the table. Especially at 320k I just wished I knew for certain before I pulled the trigger. But it is pointing that way eventually!
 
I appreciate it, I believe that may be the option that is on the table. Especially at 320k I just wished I knew for certain before I pulled the trigger. But it is pointing that way eventually!

Take it in to a diesel mechanic, they can test all of them, without taking them out. They tested mine, and they were shot.
 
What is the rail pressure when cranking? It needs at least 3,000 to start, probably closer to 3,500. If the rail pressure cranking is low it is most likely connector tubes or injectors. Stop throwing parts at it and diagnose logically. The proper way to diagnose is testing injector return flow.
Torquing connectors tubes is free if you do it yourself, and is not a terrible job. Done in conjunction with the return flow will get you much closer to a proper fix.
 
So I have an electric rail pressure I just put on and doesn’t show at start but is immediately at 6000 psi. As far as the torquing goes I didn’t think about that, and off hand do you know the torque specs? No smoke or fumbles after starting just started having a hard start. Like Rowdy suggested I am going to take it to a reputable diesel mechanic but being the 4th everyone decided to close on Friday also so Monday it is if they have a slot.

Had been looking at injector direct since I seem to be on borrowed time with mileage. Can’t decide other than new stock Bosch or the + 50 new Bosch.

thanks for the reply!
 
Had been looking at injector direct since

You feel like paying twice to do the job if you have a warranty problem? IF and only IF it needs them get them from the shop doing the work that will warranty the work OR look hard at BBi injectors. Lots of cheap garbage for injectors out there and you roll the dice a failure doesn't burn the engine down. Yes a very expensive set of parts where Cheap that can burn you bad is very tempting Vs. Frugal.
 
^^^what Tuedak said… go with BBi for reliability and confidence that the “new” injectors won’t ruin your engine. Even BBi remans meet critical specs that are higher than any other injection builders.
Just saying.
 
You feel like paying twice to do the job if you have a warranty problem? IF and only IF it needs them get them from the shop doing the work that will warranty the work OR look hard at BBi injectors. Lots of cheap garbage for injectors out there and you roll the dice a failure doesn't burn the engine down. Yes a very expensive set of parts where Cheap that can burn you bad is very tempting Vs. Frugal.


So injector that are new Bosch for this place are not good? I just assumed new is new and has the tolerances with a reputable set and brand. I have looked at BBI but saw the name Bosch which has been used is ok. Can anyone explain? I have definitely read about the quality and I had planned on getting it diagnosed and doing the work myself to save money and learn.
 
So I have an electric rail pressure I just put on and doesn’t show at start but is immediately at 6000 psi. As far as the torquing goes I didn’t think about that, and off hand do you know the torque specs? No smoke or fumbles after starting just started having a hard start. Like Rowdy suggested I am going to take it to a reputable diesel mechanic but being the 4th everyone decided to close on Friday also so Monday it is if they have a slot.

Had been looking at injector direct since I seem to be on borrowed time with mileage. Can’t decide other than new stock Bosch or the + 50 new Bosch.

thanks for the reply!

Rewire that gauge so that it shows at "Start" also, not only RUN and ACC.
Many circuits are shut down during start, so is the one you used for the gauge.
The FSM tells you where to find a hot one during start.
 
So injector that are new Bosch for this place are not good? I just assumed new is new and has the tolerances with a reputable set and brand. I have looked at BBI but saw the name Bosch which has been used is ok. Can anyone explain? I have definitely read about the quality and I had planned on getting it diagnosed and doing the work myself to save money and learn.

Problem is that you aren't always getting NEW-NEW - instead you get Old Stock, an outdated design, the wrong ones for your engine or just plain fake ones.
It is hard nowadays to avoid all these obstacles and like mentioned above - these are crucial parts, do not cheap out here.
 
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Gotcha, thank y’all! So that made up my mind, I agree I just thought new was new but the more I read and the some things I’m seeing BBI is sounding like a better choice. So big question is where would be the best place to buy from? I’ve looked at DDI and Diesel Power Products.
 
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new Bosch

"New" is a new Bosch marketing term for "Reman/Rebuilt" where they can re-use the injector body that's prone to cracking, but new guts. "Virgin New" is what to look for and a mess. This mess is why I went to BBi's for my 2003.

Ask your shop if they can get them for you for warranty purposes as it's expensive in paid labor to change them.

Again make sure this is the problem first.
 
FYI, my "New" BBI injectors, from Diesel Power Products, were "New". No doubt about it looking at them.

Of course they are, BBi is always honest about their products.
By the way, their own BBi remans are the only one I would buy without thinking twice about it if money is small. They are quality and they back it up too.

Above we talked about generic Bosch rebuilds that are all over the place.
 
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