Hard Starting and block heater?

[BGDUMMY]

Yesterday morning I liked to have never gotten the truck to start (Temp at night in the mid 40s), even after priming for about 30 pushes & giving a little pedal, and then I remembered that maybe if downhill slightly (was on level ground), that it may help. I rolled the truck down a little 10" or so drop in the driveway and turned over the truck, with slight pressure on pedal and it fired right up.

When I left work the same day, it did it again. I was able to roll it nose down some also. I let it sit for a minute and it then fired up. At this time I thought, well it is time to change the "dreaded" return line, but last night I tried plugging in the block heater to see if it would make a difference and it did fire right up this morning, so is there any relationship between the two?

I thought for sure I needed to change the return hose, but after last night, I am confused.

SORRY for the long post and any help would be appreciated.

 

[illflem]

Just a guess. I'm wondering if your fuel shutdown solenoid or relay is sticking closed in the colder weather. Removing and cleaning the solenoid is easier than replacing the fuel line, relays are cheap. Turn on the key to start and see if the solenoid is pulling up. I know from playing around with my infrared temperature gun that the underhood temp will be in the 70s when it's below zero if the block heater is plugged in. It just doesn't seem to me that the fuel line leaking will cause problems only when colder. If you haven't replaced the lines you should plan on it anyway, it's just a matter of time, better to do it now than this winter when your batteries have to work harder, you won't have as much reserve for the extra cranking and may end up stuck. Plus replacing the lines is much easier when your hands aren't numb.

 

[HerbW]

Leaky Fuel Lines,Relay or BOTH?

I just replaced my two fuel lines and it fixed my starting problems quick! The return line was totally trashed with holes all threw it. I could see fuel dripping below onto the metal fuel line by crawling underneath. The in line looked new. I replaced it anyway. If you feel on the transmission, the fuel lines were in a holding strap and after I got them out of that, I could see all of the hose clamps to replace the lines. They are 3/8s and 5/16th sizes. I've started my truck at 28 degrees without the heaters easily to see if I could. Alot of smoke but no problems. Illflem could be onto your problem with the relay fouling up. I'd also look for fuel underneath and change out the lines for good measure so you don't have two problems working against you. Let us know. Herb

 

[BGDUMMY]

Is the solenoid under a thin rubber boot?

I found what looks like what you are talking

about and there is a rubber boot around

something (which the boot has quite a few rips in it).

Do I take that boot off?

 

[illflem]

If your boot is ripped it may be that crud has collected in the solenoid and is binding it up causing your starting problem. Remove the entire unit from the engine to clean it, it is a simple device. Problem here is that the boot should be replaced if torn but isn't available separately. I have never tried to fabricate a boot but sure as hell would try before paying $200+ for a solenoid. I've thought that a short section of bicycle inner-tube and some tie wire might do it.

 

[BGDUMMY]

I guess I'll take it off Sat. and have a look.

So, what you are saying is once the boot is off

it is pretty simple as to how it removes.

I'm just being cautious, because I don't

like surprises, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for the input.

 

[GSchlegel]

3 Months ago I had the boot replaced at a Bosch shop in Beemer, NE. I had them advance the timing and we noticed a ripe in the solenoid boot. They had it on hand. If we have it in the middle of Nebraska, it must be available elsewere.

Gene