Hard starts

[Archive]

Have a 94 auto that is hard to start. I replaced the return lines. Is there some kind valve or lift pump that can cause this?

 

[Archive]

There is a check valve that can cause this symptom. It's located on the engine side of the injector pump even with the forward delivery valve (front injector line). The check valve is inside the banjo fitting that fastens the return line to the side of the pump. If you remove this it's a good idea to cram some rags below the valve so that the washers don't fall and disappear in the machinery.

The lift pump can also cause this problem. It if runs ok after it's started it probably isn't the lift pump. This pump is located below and a little bit to the rear of the fuel filter. It has a rubber covered manual pump button on the side.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

CC I saw you only have 8 posts, so I'll assume you didnt own this too long.
If your idle is set on the low side, it helps if you step on the accelerator slightly before you crank the engine. As mine came from the factory, it started fine w/o using this method. I didnt like idling that high, so I had them turn it down a bit. Now if I dont step on it slightly, it will crank a looooooooong time before starting, if at all.
HTH


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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.