Hard Wired Battery Cable Jumper

[Deleted member 995608]

I had this installed on my 3rd gen, and completely forgot that I had it in a box for this last year after I bought my 2016.

For whatever reason, my guests have a lot of battery issues with their vehicles. Seems like 2-4 times a month, I'm using my truck to jump start some sort of vehicle to get it running, so I thought this would be a simple way to do that. Plus, it's super easy for my wife to use. Attach the alligator clips to the dead battery first, connect the Anderson plugs and it's ready to roll. Just makes jumping a dead battery slightly more easy.

In my 3rd gen, I mounted the Anderson plug inside the engine compartment, so I had to raise the hood each time to plug in. This time, I wanted it on the outside somewhere, but couldn't figure out where. So I used the front passenger tow hook mounting. I made a bracket to hold the Anderson plug using 2" x 1/8" angle and cut it to fit around the tow hook and its mounting bolts. Turned out pretty good and is tucked inside the bumper just enough to keep it from getting damaged. Hard to see in the last pic, but there is a rubber cap that covers up the exposed contacts on the plug.

I keep thinking I need to add a breaker between the battery and plug mounted in the bumper, but I'm thinking it's okay the way it is because when using regular jumper cables, it's a straight battery to battery connection. If any of you know otherwise, feel free to chime in.

 

[seafish]

Looking good... Love the DIY!!!

I'll be doing the same thing with cables and a bracket from these guys--

http://store.polarwire.com/browse.cfm/jumper-2ga-16-4harness/4,2727.html

 

[GCroyle]

Ever consider putting a locking cover over the truck plug? Keep anybody from even having a chance to stick something in there?

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I don't know that I've seen a locking cap for Anderson power poll connectors. Would be pretty cool though. Although I'm in California, we're pretty rural where most don't mess around with other people stuff, but there's always that one person.......

Seafish- thanks for the link. They don't have a breaker or fuse in their pre-made system, so I'm thinking it's not needed.

 

[GCroyle]

OK, maybe a locking cap doesn't exist but a quick search gets hits on a locking battery disconnect. Still a handy system.

 

[seafish]

I don't know that I've seen a locking cap for Anderson power poll connectors. Would be pretty cool though. Although I'm in California, we're pretty rural where most don't mess around with other people stuff, but there's always that one person.......

Seafish- thanks for the link. They don't have a breaker or fuse in their pre-made system, so I'm thinking it's not needed.

I am very conservative about my truck wiring and do incorporate fuses and breakers everytime I add a circuit. That being said, there really is no reason for a fuse or breaker on the battery side of the extension as long as YOU know what you are doing and you are the ONLY person using your truck to jump other vehicles. If not, it wouldn't be a bad idea to incorporate one to protect your trucks battery and wiring from a dead short (i.e. reversed cables). I did talk with Rhonda at Polar Wire and they do not really see anyone using a breaker with their cables, so take that for what it's worth.

More importantly, I will suggest using wire loom around the wires of the extension, at least at any place where the wire(s) might be contacting the truck body.

Also, they DO carry both rubber and nylon covers for the Anderson connectors, though you will have to know the amp rating/size of your connector. Here is link to the rubber cover that fits OVER the end of the connector, as opposed to a nylon insert cover. Neither of the types are locking, but I think that is unnecessary, partuculalry if you choose the almost invisible black one--

http://store.polarwire.com/browse.cfm/175-amp-rubber-dust-coverblack/4,8930.html

http://store.polarwire.com/browse.cfm/175-amp-rubber-dust-coverred/4,8931.html

Again, NOT sure if the link is for size that YOU need, but they have others...just give 'em a call and they can prolly help you get the right one for your connector.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

+1 on wrapping the cables. I didn't have plastic loom large enough to cover the cables, so I wrapped them in heavy cloth tape from 3M from behind the Anderson plug almost all the way to the battery. I actually pulled the air box out so that I had a better view when I was fishing the cable through.

I still think i'm going to add a fuse block of some sort. The thought damaging the electrical of a 4th gen and being responsible to repair it doesn't sound cheap. Just not sure how to size the breaker or fuse for my intended purposes. Any ideas?

 

[Bob4x4]

The fuse would have to of the highest amp you would expect to encounter while cranking.A breaker of 500 amps would be very expensive.Tow trucks do not use any and they are used every day without issue.As long as the wiring is installed properly between your batt and the conector your truck will be as safe as possible with the inherent risk of jump starting

 

[jhenderson]

You are a brave man. I bought a 600 amp JNC jumper box. I keep it in my tool box. I consider it cheap insurance against complex and expensive electrical failure due to the dead vehicles problems or high system draw.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I don't have any issues with using my truck and its' battery's for jump starting dead or low battery's. The only concern I have is the accidental oops where the alligator clip end of the business gets crossed -/+, and that's one reason why I like the quick connect plugs over traditional cables as it eliminates the possibility to accidentally cross the polarities on one end.

The dudes that are big into high output stereo's that draw 100's of amps protect their stuff with ANL type fuses and blocks. They are relatively economical, and are available up to 750 amps if I remember correctly.

 

[CMB]

Hi All,

Here is a reasonable source for wire/cable loom (and other stuff). 17 bucks for 100 feet.


https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/wireloom.php

Cheers,
CMB