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Harsh Shifts with shift kit?

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What actually causes the harsh shift with shift kits?
Do harsh shifts stress shafts/gears in any way?

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1995 4X4 std cab 12 valve, original owner, 100k miles, 14cm turbo, 4" exhaust, EGT and Boost guage, #5 torque, 215 injectors, (370's and delivery valves on the way) AFC spring kit, Pscotty airfilter, Dunrite TC and Red Butt Engineering Torqueflite TransButtyy shift kit, 3. 54 rear, 17. 5" American Racing aluminum wheels, Mickey Thompson MTX's, Rancho's 9000S, Helwig anti-sway, Starcraft camper and assundry dodad's. Only thing faster than a 12 valve is my Ducati 4 valve
 
<font color=blue>The reason your shifts are more "firmer" is due to the increased line pressure in the transmission. No it will not harm the transmission until you get to a certain point. I think its aroun 135psi or so I can't remember, I am sure someone will have the number handy.

You "up" the line pressure in order to hold the lock up clutch when you "upgrade" the power output of the engine.
 
firmer shifts can be the result of higher line pressure.

I do not like firm shifts, the faster you stop a rotating part the more stress there is on the part

make a 700 trans in a gm shift too firm from 1st to 2nd and you will break the splines on the sun shell.

you can have smooth shifts with high enough line pressure to eliminate slippage as long as the accumulators are working properly.
when the pressure gets too high you break things like the servo apply strap, the pump has to work harder, it is hard on the seals ect.

the problem with these transmissions is not that the clutches inside the trans burn from too low a pressure, most of the time they burn because of leaks, low fluid levels, pressure does not rise properly in relation to throttle opening (the tv is set wrong).
amoung other things.

the big reason i see that the pressure is turned up is to hold the converter clutch from slipping----we get a lot of these units that the only problem is the converter clutch, the inside of the trans if fine, cut open the converter and the only thing wrong with the converter is the lining is bad and the cover is burned black, the rest of the converter is ok----just because the cover is burned from heat does not mean the rest of the converter is bad, seldom is it the case where the entire converter is bad.

get the pressure too high and you will break things, we fix the problem at the problem, we put in a big enough converter clutch to handle the load with reasonable pressures.

you can also get a firm shift with low pressure, if the accumulator piston strokes against its spring and bottoms in the bore b4 the shift is complete it will be a bump and the end of the shift

if you have bind up you will get a firm shift
a bind up is when there is more elements on than need be example----in 2nd gear on a 727 trans the front band is the holding member and the rear clutch is the driving member-----the band is holding the drum stationary----when it shifts to 3rd the band is released by the same oil that applies the front clutch, (front clutch is inside the drum that the band is holding).
if the band holds the drum stationary too long and the clutch is coming on trying to turn the drum the band and clutch are fighting each other, one trying to hold and the other trying to spin the drum. can't have it both ways someone has to give,SLIP.
this bind up feels like a good solid shift because when the band finally does release the drum the clutch is already trying to spin the drum and you get a very fast bang shift----not good for anything.

if you change the 3. 8 ratio apply lever to a higher ratio, especially the 5. 0 it will give bind up unless properly set up, which involves more that just the band adjustment.


so there are several things that can cause a firm/harsh shift, not all are related to high line pressure, there has to be a balance between firm and soft, to soft you can burn clutches but factory calibration seldom burns clutches unless something else is wrong also, too firm a shift is not only hard on shafts and splines it is hard on the clutch lining itself.

a proper shift will be completed in . 3 to . 5 seconds and you can have a nice feeling shift that takes . 3 second

a shift that takes longer than . 75 second is way too long, check it with a stop watch. if we sent a trans out with a 1 second long shift we would get it back before the customer got out of town, our town has only one stop sign.

on a chrysler 604/606 computer controlled trans the computer times the shifts and if a shift takes longer than . 75 second the computer will set a slip code. these transmissions are found in mini vans and intrepid cars among others.

dave
 
one more thing about firm shifts

i can give a firm shift the proper way with no bind up but i still don't like a firm shift

ambulance transmissions are some of the most extreme duty transmissions built and they take a punishment, they also have a smooooth shift. they also take the abuse.

patients and EMT's appreciate the smoth shift.
 
Goer'
Thanks for the lengthy response. I have the transbutty shift kit on my desk and I am waiting for my Maghytech transmission pan and torque converter before I start work. I am not sure If I am going to use the Transbutty kit. I am going to contact James, the transmission guy that installed Dowg's to see what he thinks.

Laser,

I got the wheels and tires at Performance Tire and wheel in Denver 303. 934. 2929

The wheels are 5 spoke 17. 5" solid spun aluminum. The Micky Thompson MTX's seem to be a good combination, as they are very smooth (no vibrations) on the road, quite, and provide adequate traction when camping/4wheeling on national forest service roads.

[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 11-02-2000). ]
 
I talked to James (innnerrush76) this morning. He said he did the install for Dowg.

James said he theought the Transbutty kit was more difficult to install than the transgo, but it solved other problems not solved by the transgo (like higher flow to TC) and it provides excellent transmission performance. However he said he has been installing Transgo kits for several years and did not have an opinion on which was better, or will give longer service.

He said he road tested the Trasnbutty on Dowg's truck and got the following readings
idle - 90-95 psi
hwy - 130-135 psi
WOT - 160-165 psi
He said the high presures should not hurt anything as long as the vavle body is laped and total end clearances in the transmission kept to about . 006 to . 009" He also said the firm shifting will not hurt anything, but to lower the line pressure in the valve body, not the TV cable, to affect how fast it shifts- if the shifts feel too firm.

James also reccomended removing the anti drain valve in cooler line to assure adequate lubrication. He reccomenede leting the truck warm up 25 seconds to fill the TC befor driving.

James is a 25 year transmission tech and was pretty knowledgable on the rebuild with the Transbutty.

Any feedback from any one?
 
i would not worry about tonys kit, he is one of the few that know how do do a valve body
correctly, if the pressure is too high you can always turn it down. if the shifts are too firm you can always soften them.
tony makes a good product, install it and don't worry about it.
if you need help let me know.
 
the trans go kit also furnishes higher flo to the converter, tonys kit just does it in a different manner. to increase flo more yet leave the washer out behind the spring, on a trans go drill the full feed hole larger but if larger than . 078 you will lower line at idle slightly,, no big deal.
if you want more flow in park (can't imagine why you would need excess flo in park, i never had anyone burn up the trans pulling in park) just machine the area behine the thin land to a smaller diameter---not really worth the effort.

i agree 100% never lower pressure by adjusting the tv setting lower to soften shifts---always in the valve body

i also agree that the drain back check valve would get pitched if it were me, i would rather wait a few seconds than risk a stuck drain back check valve and overheat the trans and starve the geartrain for lube.

it obvious that james knows what he is talking about by his comment on the drain back valve---he will know if it is to firm and will adjust it accordingly.
 
Rule of thumb - When you go to the transmission Dr. , show him that dozen eggs in their container on the floor & tell him when it shifts you want it to break at least 1 egg out of 12. #ad
#ad


A hard shifting transmission is NOT a slipping transmission. The softer the shift, the more the slip. #ad


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When my trans "EXPLODED"it was rebuild an a durite convertor installed. Had a transgo kit but my trans guy said not to use it. He just drilled out holes in the valvebody an said that would boost line pressure. He's a DC trans tech and all he does is cummins. The trans shifts just a little firmer than stock. The only time it acts funny is under hard driving. It"s like it does not shift until the motor redlines or fuel is cut back.

[This message has been edited by cherokee chief (edited 11-02-2000). ]
 
A Bomb
Pressure seems a bit excessive to me what alot of people leave out is the fact that lots of your shift concearns can be taken care of in the transmission rather than just the valve body. More work but nicer results,Holding power alot greater at less psi with a crisper, not harsher shift. As everyone will appreciate, easier on seals and hard parts,incuding all other drivetrain componets.

Keep havin fun!!!
STEVE T
BD R&D
 
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