Has anyone installed a BD twin kit?

[Bartlett]

Ok now that the #*#! one piece turbo drain is out and the #&*! steel coolant line is removed I am ready to start installing new parts. I have a few questions and was hoping that someone who has installed one of these (this is the r700) could pm me or even one of you guys that has done similiar setups? Any info would be great. Instructions for manifold tell you to torque allen head capscrews and has a pic of them but kit doesnt come with them. Am I supposed to reuse factory bolts/studs and reinstall heat shield?The manifold is not drilled on the topside for pyro port. So I will need to drill and tap. I dont know what size the fitting that goes into the manifold that the pyro probe screws to is. Anyone know what size this is as I dont know if the old one will come out of the stock manifold. This is a second gen manifold mounted upside down. Also, do I have to install o rings on either of 2 turbo drains that go into block? Dont see them in kit but looks like the tubes have grooves for them. The instructions arent bad but look a little out of date in some of the pics. Any help would be truly appreciated. Thanks

Mike

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Re-use the stock exhaust manifold bolts and spacers, except for the two center bolts underneath (when the manifold is installed with the outlet pointing up). The shape of the two center exhaust ports gets in the way of the stock bolts and spacers, and the BD kit comes with two Allen head bolts for those two places. Don't use the heat shield; there will be no air inlet pipe nearby with the twin turbo setup. I drilled and tapped my manifold on the “new” topside for the pyrometer probe. Mock up the secondary turbo on the manifold to see where you can put it and have good clearance to the turbo, and be centered in a port area where several exhaust ports from the engine are merged. Most pyro probe fittings are 1/8 NPT; use an 11/32” drill. A few are ¼ NPT and take a 7/16” drill. Soak the old fitting in your original exhaust manifold with rust penetrant and remove it before drilling and tapping the new manifold. I scraped all clear coat off the block holes, greased, and pressed in the turbo oil drain fittings with o-rings on them. If they are very tight, you could get away without o-rings, and maybe just use a bit of silicone RTV sealer.

 

[Bartlett]

Joe,I was hoping you would chime in! I pulled out that article on your install for the umteenth time and studied the pics carefully. I was going to go to Cummins and buy some additional manifold bolts so not to have to use any of the studs. I like things to look "clean":-laf. Even though you used the two allen head capscrews in the manifold kit you still must have utilized some of the studs on the manifold? None visible in your pics. You must have at least used the one to hold the coolant tube bracket to the manifold where originaly equipped?I have the 1/4 fitting in my oem manifold ,want to use 1/8 one though but cant remember where I put it and dont have any type of part # for it. Would be less drilling with the 1/8 one. As far as O rings, did you put one on each drain line that goes into block? The short straight one (rear) doesnt have a recess to accomadate an o ring while the long curved one (front) does have a recess. I will be working on these two tomorrow and see how they fit up first hand. This setup I am hoping will put a big grin on my face:-laf

 

[CMChristensen]

did you get them installed? im thinking of ordering the same kit... . pm me an let me know what you think if you dont mind... . thanks... . are you doing any cp3 or arp at the same time an what about injectors?

 

[Bartlett]

pm sent... ...

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I replaced the bolts with studs on them with regular bolts, because I had spares. I did not clamp the heater pipe to the manifold, as I cut off that tab years ago. It is the biggest pain in replacing the exhaust manifold. You can drill the remainder of the tab, and use a strong piece of wire to help keep the heater water tube from vibrating. I prefer the 1/8 NPT over the ¼ NPT as you don't have to cut out so much of the manifold. Since my Tubo Diesel is an early 2004, I didn't have to replace the rear oil drain fitting in the block. In 2004. 5, Cummins went to the accordion style drain pipe and you have to install a drain stub in place of it. The OEM stub is . 846” diameter below the o-ring groove, and . 876” diameter above the groove, toward the retaining shoulder. The BD machined steel stub is . 876” diameter, so it is a press fit and you will be fine with just a thin film of RTV sealer on it when you press it into the hole in the block.

 

[Bartlett]

I have been working on this off and on all weekend. Not real happy with the install. Instructions are probably better than most but I would have been better off using them to light the wood stove. One of the hardware kits sent in the kit is wrong so I dont have all that I need to complete the install plus I snapped the pyro fitting while trying to remove. My enthusiasm is starting to run on empty.

 

[JJPage]

My manifold came drilled for the pyro, it is on the bottom of the upside down 2nd gen manifold, and did take some finesse to get it in, but that was one of the easier tasks.



I just had the front oil drain tube to deal with also(03), I used the smaller of the two o-rings provided, a block of wood and a mallet. Be sure to connect the provided drain tubes to the turbos while they are off the truck.



I removed the right front wheel, and the inner fender first off. I placed all the new parts out on a clean tarp and proceeded to dismantle. I have run a couple of different single chargers, so learning a few tricks/shortcuts help.



I agree about the extra/spare... hex head bolts, o-rings, several v-band clamps, I guess I was lucky in that respect, having spares, instead of not enough, but it was still a "guess" and a "trial and error", to get the install completed.



It took me the better part of two days, start to finish, but I am very pleased with their performance.