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Has anyone put a Reese 5er in an 04 ?

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lorirobert

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Just sold my 99 ram , would like to use my old 15K reese 5er hitch if i can on new truck, but there isn"t alot of info on the web site about this set-up. I see reese sells the brackets to do this,but it looks like welding and drilling are involved. I thought the new trucks were supposed to be no drill only . ant thoughts?
 
The 3rd gen frames can be drilled per DC to install a 5th wheel hitch within certain limits. If bolts go all the way through the frame, you must install a sleeve to keep from crushing the frame. Holes must not be near the edge of the frame, etc.



I was going to move my Reese hitch from my 01 to my 04. 5, but decided to get a PullRite no-drill hitch. See link below for details. Scroll to the bottom of the page for links to installation comments and slide show.



http://www.klenger.net/dodge/pullrite/index.html



Good luck in whatever decision you make.
 
I did the same thing. I had an '01, and pulled the hitch and rails out. I saved the bolts, but some were a little rusted, so am getting some new ones. Yes there is some drilling involved. And no, there is no welding. I have a 20k Reese hitch, so your situation may be a little different. I did note that there were some differences, but didn't pay attention to the specifics of the other hitches that I don't have--only the info for the 20k. But, most of what I'll tell ya will be close. :)



When lorirobert mentioned "crushing" the frame, he is referring to the runners of the bed, not the actual truck frame. In the rear rails, you put bolts through the bed frame runners, and if you just put your bolts through them and tighten them, the runner will get crushed. Spacers fix that problem.



You will need a bracket kit. This replaces the rear "L" brackets, and gives you two new ones that are shaped to fit under and behind the rear bed-frame runner. You can get it for ~$60. If you get it online, you'll have to pay ~$5-$6 for the spacers. If you go to someone local shop who installs these, they should have the spacers. Ask them to throw them in. What happens is these spacers are ONLY used on the '03-'04 Dodge. Other trucks don't need them. And these spacers are ONLY sold with the rail kit. So, when your local shop installs these rails on, say, a Ford, the spacers ARE NOT used. Therefore, you should be able to talk the shop dude into throwing them in when you buy the bracket kit from him.



PS) there are two different kits, I believe. One is for trucks with overload springs, and one kit is for those trucks without.



If you need a part number, let me know and I'll get it for you. Too lazy to go outside right now:D



Hope this helps. ;)



SOLER
 
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Check my readers rigs pics at left. I re-used my L brackets for my '03 2500 with new hardware. I used an old guitar string to pull the rib neck bolts into the holes in the frame. I had to grind down one back side of an exhaust hanger on the right side to avoid having to put the right rear bracked on the inside of the frame. The hitch was actually easier to install in the '03 than in the previous two trucks.
 
I recently had a Reese 15k 5er hitch installed in my 04. 5. It only took the guy 2 hours to do the installation. I had to purchase a new set of Dodge brackets for the rear, he used my old L brackets on the front. The new brackets were $60 plus tax. Installation, brackets, tax and all was only $132.
 
Has anyone used the rear Reese Brackets (Part # 58186) for the Ram 3500s?



They are suppose to be on the inside of the frame and require a 1" hole w/spacer and some cutting on the beds "ribs" under the truck.



Any one tackle this themselves? Dale, where did they install it for that price? In this area (NY) I was quoted prices ranging from $250-600 just to install it... and I had all the parts!



I got the front in and everyting in the back except cutting the bed ribs and ran out of day light. Wanted to get advice from someone who has done it.



Thanks
 
I dit it

I installed my hitch on Monday. It took about 4 hours, only because I kept getting nervous about drilling holes. This same hitch was installed in my 2000 Dodge 2500, and I had the guy from whom I purchased the hitch do the install. He did a good job. But, when I purchased my '01 a year later, I took the hitch and installed it myself. The easy part was that it was essentially going in an identical truck. The only difference in my new truck was the HO 6sp vs the SO/Auto in my Y2k. It was pretty easy, but I was still nervous.



This time, I couldn't just copy what I did in the other truck. So, I had to take my time and make sure I did it right. I measured about 16 times, and cut once for each hole. :D



If I were to do it again, I'd say I could do it in about an hour and a half. Less time if I had help. Yes, I did this completely solo.



The one thing I really didlike is the fact that the hitch is centered right above the axle. I had the Hitch installed 2" forward of the rear axle in the other truck. This put a little weight on the front wheels, and the truck was really stable. I've noticed in the new one that the truck tends to buck a little. I'm currently trying to figure a way to fab some brackets to move the rails forward an inch or two. After getting the brackets on, I think Reese could have designed brackets to do just this. But, now that I've drilled holes in the bed and frame, I don't think I'll be moving them jsut to drill a bunck of more wholes. Aye corrumba!



I had my instructions from the hitch rails from the last time. The first three pages cover the general stuff, and then there are a page each covering all the specifics of the "Big Three" for years '73 to current. Of course these were 4 years old. But, the new bracket kit came with a sheet covering the applications for which the backets are used (3rd Gen 2500/3500 w/overloads). You can also call Reese and ask for instructions. They'll email 'em to ya.



FYI, Reese and Draw Tite, from what I've seen, are exactly the same thing. They just use different stickers and part numbers.



Oh, and it would have been nice to know the trick with the hole saw and plywood:mad: :D



Not a difficult install. Instructions are good. It's just scary drilling holes in your new truck!



Now, I'm also trying to figure out where to put the pigtail. In my 2nd Gen, the plug was on the hitch. I put a plug in the side of the bed behind the wheel well, and ran the pigtail from it to the plug on the hitch. Now, with the factory plug up by the license plate, the pigtail comes out under the bumper. What are you fellas doing?



SOLER
 
7 pin trailer connector

I took delivery of the new truck and looked at the trailer wiring. There are not any in-line plugs near the 7 pin bumper plug, but there is a 4 pin trailer plug that hangs under the bumper. I was thinking it would be really cool if someone made a 7 pin harness that would mate to the 4 pin connector, and then splice in the remaining three wires. I figured "not a chance" but maybe I can make one myself. While cruising around Aurora CO yesterday, I stopped at Rocky Mtn RV to see what they might have available. Within about 30 seconds of walking into the store, there it was, exactly what I was looking for. Cost was less than $20. The harness I bought is a no-name brand (at least to me), when I asked how someone else could ask for one, they gave me a 3/4" store catalog. I broused thru it and noticed that Reese offers the same product. I searched the Reese website and found it. See below.



#ad




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Here's a link to the Reese website. P/N is 74184 (plastic) or 74185 (metal).
 
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7 pin trailer connector

I took delivery of the new truck and looked at the trailer wiring. There are not any in-line plugs near the 7 pin bumper plug, but there is a 4 pin trailer plug that hangs under the bumper. I was thinking it would be really cool if someone made a 7 pin harness that would mate to the 4 pin connector, and then splice in the remaining three wires. I figured "not a chance" but maybe I can make one myself. While cruising around Aurora CO, I stopped at Rocky Mtn RV to see what they might have available. Within about 30 seconds of walking into the store, there it was, exactly what I was looking for. Cost was less than $20. The harness I bought is a no-name brand (at least to me), when I asked how someone else could ask for one, they gave me a 3/4" store catalog. I broused thru it and noticed that Reese offers the same product. I searched the Reese website and found it. See below.



#ad




Here's a link to the Reese website. P/N is 74184 (plastic) or 74185 (metal).



Installation picture
 
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