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Have question for ATS Pulse Manifold users

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HEMI®Dart

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The ends of my manifold won't go in very far to the center section. Maybe 1/2" then they stop. Airborne coated the male ends, but I just took some emery cloth and cleaned them up. They didn't want to go in before I had it coated.

Do I need to press them in or a hit them in with a rubber mallet? I have Anti-size on the male ends already. The ends of the manifold are in the freezer now.

No directions came with the Manifold.

Installing tomorrow.

Anyone have any tips?



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 04-27-2001). ]
 
Bill,

The Installation Instructions I have say to use a rubber hammer to pound the ends together. Be careful not to remove too much from the male ends. I found that the further in the male ends were, the easier they went. If you have a fax # I could fax you the directions (2 pages).

Dave

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT,Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, ATS 3-piece Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Valve Covers, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
 
I use a brass hammer on the very end flange to press the outer parts into the center (put Never Seez or equiv. on the male and female joints). I use an old head for fitup as doing it on the engine would really be a pain. I imagine equalizing the bolt hole spacings per the directions would work fine, just take longer (that is, if you have a spare head available).
 
In a press fit situation the small thickness of the coating you had done could make a sizeable difference. Just a thought #ad

Clark
 
Say guys, as long as we have you cornered, are these ATS manifolds a step in the "bombing" process or the answer to a cracked stock manifold? (The "lust-for-list" is getting pretty long now, and selectivity is the new word!)

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'96 2500 Black SLT 4x4 Standard Cab 5sp 3. 54, GearVendors OD, Wood dash, Sport headlights,Stull boards holding up 28" Hadley Diplomats, Pre-Luber, BFG 285 ATs on 5 spoke mags.
 
Thanks alot for the tips you guys. Without directions , I didn't know how to go about assembling the parts. I put the center section in the oven @ 300º and the ends in the freezer overnight. They still were tight. Used a rubber mallet to hit them in. I was sweating bullets for a while thinking what if I push to ends in too much. I'd never be able to pull them out a again. I didn't care for the 2 top bolts on the center section. Can't tighten them with an Allen socket. 3/8" or 1/4" drive, swivel or no swivel. I had to cut and gring an allen wrench to get to them. No idea how much torque they have. No leaks anywhere... ... yet. #ad


Double clutch, I am happy with mine so far. Boost comes on very quickly with less backpressure. I went from 5 psi to 45psi boost in about a second with 3/4 throttle.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

Coming Spring of '01: DD III's, Majestic prepped HX-40, ATS Pulse Exhaust Manifold, High flow delivery valves, Gov spring kit.

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 04-28-2001). ]
 
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