Having some issues with rebuilt NV5600

[TX Gooseneck]

I had my trans rebuilt approx. 18k ago. Very little hauling throughout that period. Was running fine until I took two trailers up to Nebraska yesterday. After I was unloaded it seemed harder to get into 2nd gear from a stop so I'd have to go to 1st roll out then grab 2nd.



All other gears seem ok. Tonight as I'm rolling to a stop in Neutral the truck shutters a bit and acts like it's trying to pull a bit. Engine is idling fine, the truck just starts moving a little bit on it's own I didn't know if it had something to do with bearings, input shaft, flywheel or all the above.





Any thoughts?

 

[DPKetchum]

If its still trying to move its CLUTCH OR CLUTCH HYDS>RELEATED not trans. Trans can be trashed internal but if clutch dosen't release all the way the internals of trans still spining and engauged. The resason to hit 2nd before 1st is you stop the gear from moving. I bet when it does this 1st and reverse are both hard. Try going from neutral to reverse real slow and see if it dosen't grind reverse gear and you ought to be able to hear gear turning slowly. Clutch/pilot bearing or master/slave problem.

 

[rbattelle]

I agree with DP... check the clutch system first. Had a Ranger that was the same way (almost impossible to get into gear at a stop). I was told by a few people that it was a bad pressure plate. Had the clutch/pressure plate replaced problem was not cured. The real problem was air kept getting entrained in the clutch fluid. My solution was to bleed the system every few months rather than install a new slave cylinder (it's a concentric cylinder in Rangers).



Fortunately, on the NV5600 the slave is not concentric and the entire clutch hydraulic system can be replaced with the transmission in-place. Unfortunately, the clutch hydraulic system is replaced as a unit (master and slave), which makes it a little more expensive. And it CANNOT be bled.



2003 service manual says to check fluid level first. If that's good, there's not really any way to tell whether the slave is moving the fork enough (I don't think). I think you'd just have to replace the clutch hydraulic system and hope for the best.



-Ryan

 

[GRudy]

A shot in the dark but I had simular symptoms with my 99, NV4500 about a year ago. What I found was that the nuts that hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing had come loose. Only about 1/8" but enough to keep the clutch from disengageing. Since your trany was recently rebuilt they may not have tightened them correctly. ?????

 

[mberry]

Mine did the same thing when I was in Nebraska a couple months ago. Must be a Nebraska thing? Give it some time. Mine went away in a couple of weeks. Shifts fine now.

 

[jwilliams3]

You might try running the 12 valve hydraulic system for your clutch.

 

[TX Gooseneck]

As of now, the problem seems to not be present, but I'll keep an eye on it.





Even had a dream last night that if I went to grab first or reverse they were spinning so fast you could hear the gear teeth flying off

 

[DPKetchum]

Teeth won't fly off.

 

[TX Gooseneck]

Teeth won't fly off.

I know that, that's why I prefaced it by saying it was a dream - REM

 

[btanner]

"Fortunately, on the NV5600 the slave is not concentric and the entire clutch hydraulic system can be replaced with the transmission in-place. Unfortunately, the clutch hydraulic system is replaced as a unit (master and slave), which makes it a little more expensive. And it CANNOT be bled.



2003 service manual says to check fluid level first. If that's good, there's not really any way to tell whether the slave is moving the fork enough (I don't think). I think you'd just have to replace the clutch hydraulic system and hope for the best. "



That's not entirely true. First you can bleed the slave and master on the nv5600 it's just not very easy. First you take the slave unhook it from everything and then pull it out. Place it at a 45 and unhook the two plastic retainer tabs. The rod should come all the way out. Take off the fittings by punching out the retainers and then pull out the fitting be sure to keep trac of the little o-ring that comes out with the fitting. Then fill the slave with fluid until it starts overflowing. Then put a nail or something small into the end to break the surface area and re-fill. This should now have your slave bled. Forgot to mention that you'll want to take the clutch line (from the master to the slave) and place it up higher than the master resivior, so it won't leak. Next put fluid in the resivior and pump the clutch a couple of times until it is just fluid and no air. Next attach the slave to the clutch line. This is the most crucial part make sure that you keep the slave at a 45 so the fluid doesn't leak out and air get in. Then push the rod back into the slave and you should have some air bubbles come out the resivior and you are completely bled. Reconnect the retainer tabs and you should be done. It takes a lot longer than you would think but once you do it once it becomes a lot easier and it's a lot faster with someone helping. Getting that bugger back in is also not fun. But it's a lot cheaper than buying a whole new assembly.



You can tell if the slave is engaging by having someone push on the clutch while you are under the truck you can hear it going back and forth if it's working properly. You also can sort of see the assembly through the access hole on the bottom of the transmission and you can see the arm moving not a real accurate way of tell if it's working properly but better than nothing.



Hope that's the problem because it's a cheap fix just takes time. The bolts being loose would be nice because that's even easier and I could see it happenning if it's not tightened initially. Well best of luck on that.



-ben

 

[rbattelle]

That's not entirely true. First you can bleed the slave and master on the nv5600 it's just not very easy. First you take the slave unhook it from everything and then pull it out. Place it at a 45 and unhook the two plastic retainer tabs. The rod should come all the way out. Take off the fittings by punching out the retainers and then pull out the fitting be sure to keep trac of the little o-ring that comes out with the fitting. Then fill the slave with fluid until it starts overflowing. Then put a nail or something small into the end to break the surface area and re-fill. This should now have your slave bled. Forgot to mention that you'll want to take the clutch line (from the master to the slave) and place it up higher than the master resivior, so it won't leak. Next put fluid in the resivior and pump the clutch a couple of times until it is just fluid and no air. Next attach the slave to the clutch line. This is the most crucial part make sure that you keep the slave at a 45 so the fluid doesn't leak out and air get in. Then push the rod back into the slave and you should have some air bubbles come out the resivior and you are completely bled. Reconnect the retainer tabs and you should be done. It takes a lot longer than you would think but once you do it once it becomes a lot easier and it's a lot faster with someone helping. Getting that bugger back in is also not fun. But it's a lot cheaper than buying a whole new assembly.

Wow!



Sounds like a real PITA. How much is a new assembly?



-Ryan

 

[btanner]

Wow!



Sounds like a real PITA. How much is a new assembly?



-Ryan

Not sure what it is now but when I priced it out about two years ago it was around 450-500 if I remember right. You are getting everything in the clutch system though. Master, slave, resivour, lines connecting everything and I think maybe even the clutch pedal assembly I can't remember how I priced it out. But I do remember that it was enough that I decided not to go that route on my conversion.



Don't know if it helps at all but you can use a gm master cylinder from the 80s have a custom line made and use your slave and have the complete deal for about 150 bucks. Which includes a 75-80 dollar slave cylinder. But yeah it's a pain but it is possible.



-ben

 

[TX Gooseneck]

Not a clutch afterall. They think it is a synchro but not sure, full teardown on Monday

I had this thing rebuilt Feb. 15th.

 

[DPKetchum]

Might be and hope their right. Seen that dragon chased before and ended up being clutch or hyds.

 

[BRayls]

Might be and hope their right. Seen that dragon chased before and ended up being clutch or hyds.

waiting on my slave cyl now. lists for $144. 10. sometimes its ok others she will creep while stopped.

 

[jwilliams3]

Dont buy another 3rd gen slave.

Get the 12 valve version.

 

[BRayls]

how much do you have in the conversion?

 

[btanner]

guess I never saw you ask that question. I have about 10 grand in my conversion, but there are some caveets that need to be mentioned. First i have a brand new transmission clutch and everything between the engine and transmission. That was a little over 3 a think. Then I spent about 1500 on the engine after selling the transmission. I also have about 2-3 grand in a custom air ride setup and I have about 1000 in engine mods and 800 in engine brake so whatever that leaves is the misc. stuff. I might be off by a couple of hundred one way or another but that's about what I remember putting in it.



-ben