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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head bolt torque

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission changing to a Dana 80 single

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By Torqure Turn do you mean "Torque to XXXft pounds then turn an additional 45*"

Reardless, no. I always do critical fasteners to manufacturer specs and procedures for torqueing. Technically every fastener has a torque spec and should be tightened to such, but my rule is if it's a sealing point, enclosed inside the engine somehow, or moving part, it goes by the book, otherwise I go by experience for how tight it should be.
 
I have always used 30-60-90-115-115 or 120 if they continue coming up in torque easily. I have found that the short and long ones on the 12 valve easily go up to 120 ft-lb, and some of the medium ones just seem to start stretching after 115. I am using a beam style torque wrench that stays in calibration, not a clicker (they need re-calibration periodically).
 
Th angle method may be good for new bolts, but I have found if I took used bolts to the initial torque and then used the torque wrench to go further, some bolts reached full torque with noticeably less angle than others.
 
Thanks for the replies I got new bolts new pretty much everything I'm going to basically do a complete reseal of the top end
 
With your head gasket, there should be a stretch gauge made of plastic to measure the old head bolts. If they aren't stretched too much (and I have never seen any that were), it is fine to re-use the old bolts. Oil the shoulders and threads, let them drain, use 100 q-tips to clean out all the threwaded holes in the block, make sure the surfaces are super clean with a razor blade scraper and lacquer thinner.
 
I ordered new bolts with the head gasket also doing new exhaust manifold gaskets valve cover gasket valve cover isolators sealing rings on all the banjo bolts intake gaskets and new cross over tube o rings injector o rings and any other seal I disturb when it comes apart I do not wanna go back into this again .
 
You'd have probably been good to go on the Valve cover gaskets. Odds are good you would have been OK on the crossover tubes, but good call on the O-rings. I hope you got new injector crush gaskets (copper washers).

Everything else, exact same I do anytime I get that deep into an engine.
 
Yes I got the copper washers to the only reason I decided to do the vlave cover and isolators is I thought cheap insurance against any possible leaks . I purdy much went on Cummins quick serve and ordered every seal and o ring it looked like I would disturb I've done jobs and got away with less I've also done jobs and been bit in the a** from trying to get buy
 
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