Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Head Gasket Leak?!?

[biggy238]

O. K. I popped the hood today and found a 1. 5-2 inch wide streak of evaporated coolant down the side on my block...



It orgininates somewhere behind the exhaust manifold between the #5 and #6 ports.



I haven't overheated this truck and it's not running high power (200 MAYBE)



Right now I have no oil to coolant contamination and no loss of coolant.



I can't believe a headgasket would just spontaneousley go down.....



Is there something I could look for? A plug or something of the sort... I'm going to do a thorough inspection tomorrow.



THis kills me. I finally get a good paying summer Job and THIS comes up. .



Money Come, Money Go...

 

[CumminsPower98]

Sounds like probably a HG leak. Check to make sure it's not coming from one of the little freeze plugs on top of the head inline with the injectors.

 

[biggy238]

now thats the kind of hopeful tidbit I needed... I'm going to check it out more throroughly today.

 

[biggy238]

Definately the head gasket.....





Never seen 205* blow a head gasket before... . 202,000 miles.



Water is low today... . I'm trying to deside whether it is safe to drive it in this condition or no... . No fluid contamination still.

 

[CumminsPower98]

As long as it's just a slight external leak you are fine unless it gets so bad it really blasts it out. The only way it could get into the oil from that side would be if you also had a compression leak and it got into the cylinder. If you really need to drive it you could always try some stop leak for a while. When my gasket let go it was a compression leak from too much boost so I had no choice. I doubt the temp had anything to do with it. I have been well over 205 and no problems. It was probably just tired. The new gaskets have better sealing around the water/oil ports too. They started with the better gaskets in '98.



Here is a side by side of a '97 and current gasket.

 

[biggy238]

Thanks for the advice/info.



I'm going to drive it limitedly this week... Head studs and MArine gasket are the plan.

I would do the job myself but with my new employment, I can afford to not get it back together in short order. I have a guy who knows the job well and can get it done in short order without a hitch.



I'm going to start checking the fluids once a day to keep an eye on it. Maybe I will make it... maybe not.





Another thing... Can you elaborate more on the freeze plug? I looked and couldn't see one. . I don't think this is the source of the water as it's too widespread but I would like to know what you wanted me to look for.



All I could find in the general area was a recess in the head between the exhaust manifolds. It is approx below an injector.

 

[CumminsPower98]

It's probably the gasket but here is a picture of my head. I circled one of the freeze plugs.

 

[biggy238]

Heres the Pic. That is residue on the block underneath the manifold.

 

[biggy238]

What are the chances I could torque a little higher and get a seal? I know it's doubtful but i feel like it's worth asking.





And yeah... that gasket has alot more sealant... . Cursed 96 model gasket... So much for my indestructable Cummins... .







How long would this job take me? Any special considerations I should have?

Also, I've been thinking... Do I need any other gaskets for this job? I've got exhaust gaskets on my mind right now...





Thank You. TDR is the only thing keeping together on this...

 

[CumminsPower98]

You wouldn't gain anything by re-torquing because these head bolts are "torque to yield" from what I understand so they stretch quite a bit more then say studs. Besides that the threads are going to be real dirty and there is no way you would ever get an accurate torque even if you loosened each one and started over. Also the final torque is a 90 deg. turn with no actual torque number so you would have too loosen each one one at a time to even attempt it. Even bolts/studs with clean well lubed threads need to be loosened first before re-torquing because of the standing friction.



As far as time goes I have done mine in two part days. I didn't keep track of the exact hours. I have done 4 of these so far. I did one for pay but don't have the bill in front of me and I don't know what flat rate time is for the job.



As far as gaskets go I got the whole head set the first time I did mine so I would get everything needed since I had a valve job done also which meant taking more stuff off the head and new valve seals. You will probably want to do the same and have the head surfaced and a light valve job done. These heads are prone to warping plus you get a lot of gasket to head wear and rust that needs to be cleaned up especially on older high mileage engines.



If you don't have an engine hoist you will want to rent one because these heads are very heavy. There is no way one guy can set the head back on carefully without messing the gasket up (unless you are a muscle man maybe). I'm not sure what to add as I have no idea how much you know about this sort of thing. Feel free to ask any questions.

 

[WDixon27]

i just did the gasket on my 96 due to it peeing slowly down the block infront of the thermostat (lost maybe a quart a week), the gasket was crumbling on that corner when i got it out, marine gasket and studs and now it's ready for another 300k (hopefully) i am not sure 2 guys could place that heavy @#$%er of a head back under the cowl without screwing up the gasket, definetly have a hoist on hand, i wasn't trying it and i ain't small at 6'3" 295#

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Biggy sorry to hear of your problem. I have been told this is pretty typical in 12-valves where the water jacket portion of the HG gives out somewhere in the 200k mile range. Had the same problem on my '96. The marine HG is much better and worth your while to install.

 

[Dakotahaulers]

The newer headgaskets? If I order a 24 valve gasket is it the same fit? I know it is the same block.