Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Head gasket questions... studs?

[MistaMike]

Well, time to fix the coolant leak in the right front corner of the head. At the same time KDP, hoses, radiator, gauges, etc. In the future looking towards #11 plate, gsk. . ? I do tow a 14K trailer loaded to 10K or so in the hills.



I am a flat rate auto tech but never touched a diesel engine before... any tips on a head gasket job? Mitchells on demand does not say replace head bolts. True? Is it worthwhile to change to studs?



Is it normal to NOT cut the head? If in specs and not cut what is the correct surface prep? (I have all gassers cut. )



Thanks.

 

[MistaMike]

And my truck signature didn't work. . help?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Use the replacement Cummins 3283335, also available . 010” thicker as 3283337, or . 020” as 3283339. For high power, most people go to the . 020” gasket. The sealing beads are better on these three “marine” gaskets than on your original gasket. It is possible the block has a “dip” in the area near the thermostat. Usually just the upgraded gasket fixes the problem. Super clean the head and block with a razor blade scraper, then do it again to be sure. Lacquer thinner helps remove all residue, and mop out all the head bolt holes with about 100 Q-tips. Torque the head bolts with oil on threads to 30-60-90-115-115 to 120. Often some medium length bolts don't “want” to go over 115. That is OK if they come up to 115 reasonably fast. If you need to resurface the head (unlikely) be sure it gets a super smooth finish, and very few shops can do this. They use what gassers think of as smooth. You should look carefully at the stock finish and how you cannot catch a fingernail in the super fine scratches on it.