Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head Gasket Repair

[Hazeltine]

I am looking for information on replacing the head gasket on my 2002 dodge 24 valve HO without pulling the motor



i have the new head gasket and a set of ARP Studs



any advice will help:-laf

 

[ThrottleJockey]

No O-ring or Fire rings? Make sure and check your deck and head for flatness. Go ahead and take your head in and have them mill off a tad. It won't change your CR any.



Might as well O ring while it's off and at the machine shop. Oh yeah, use the Search feature, tons of good high performance info.

 

[rkressg]

Changing a head gasket is not all that difficult, it is just time intensive. The only major tools you will need beyond wrenches and patience is a good torque wrench and a engine hoist (to pull off head). You will also need a good air grinder with sanding/polishing pads.



It is not a problem, it just takes time. Make certain your head is flat, I. E. take it to a good machine shop that can work on a head that large. You might want to consider Valve Guides, and possibly valves if the truck has been run hard. You can also get a set of high-rev valve springs if you plan on pushing more than 3500 RPM out of it (or you aggressively run an exhaust brake). If you have it decked at a machine shop, have them put in 41 or 60 thousands Stainless Steel O-Rings.



The pushrods for #s 5 and 6 will come out with out engine removal. Just above the pushrods is a rubber gasket in the cowling that can be removed. The rods will slide up in there to come out.



Pull off the fuel lines from the head. Unbolt the Exhaust Manifold. Remove the fuel return line from the back of the head (it is way back there). Reinstall the rear engine lifting point after removing the injector line to #6.



Remove Valve Cover, and begin to break down the valve train. Pull out injector fuel tubes from side of head (behind where the fuel lines connected to the head). Remove the Injectors (you will want to replace the copper washers at the injector seat). The valve cover is a good place to put all the parts. Keep the rockers, seats and push rods seperated for each cylinder.



Loosen and remove all the head bolts. Once everything is clear, you can pull off the head with an Engine Hoist. Be careful, the head is heavy and awkward to move around. Do not drop it, as they are very expensive.



Depending on how long it has been on there, it might need a little prying while pulling up to get the head loose. Do not let it go flying when you pull it up, as it can swing around and damage itself or the truck.



Clean everything very well, almost to a clean polish especially around the centering rings on the top of the block, using a scotchbrite pad on an air grinder. I would run a tap down in the holes where the stock bolts were. Use Q-Tips to clean out the bottom of the bolt holes to remove any oil in there.



Set on the head gasket on the top of the block (with the correct side facing up) and the machined head on top.



The longer studs go on the side with the exhaust manifold.



Install the new studs until they bottom out, then back-off 1/2 turn, then install the washers and nuts. If the stud is not backed off a little, when it heats up, it can break/snap as it will not have anywhere to expand in the block.



Apply a liberal amount of the Moly Lube that comes with the studs to the washers and nuts before you install them.



Torque the studs to 100 ft/lbs, starting at 20 ft/lbs and working your way up incrementally in 10 ft/lb increments to 80 ft/lbs, then go in 5 ft/lb increments. Loosen the nuts 1/2 turn before each re-torque cycle. Start torquing from the center of the head, working in a clockwise (or counter-clockwise) pattern from the center to the outside ends of the head.



Put the rest of the engine back together, start the motor and let it come up to temperature, shut it off (do not drive it at this point).



Let the motor cool completely off. Disassemble everything, then re-torque the studs, this time up to 105 ft/lbs (slightly loosen the nuts before re-torquing).



You should not be OK to drive it very easily. After about 30 miles of driving, you will need to re-torque again. This time, loosen 1 stud at a time, and torque to 110 ft/lbs.



Drive it for 1 week, then re-torque again, this time to 115 ft/lbs.



Drive it for 2 weeks, then re-torque again, this time to 120 ft/lbs.



Check the studs again a few times over the next few months, and you will not have any issues if the head is properly torqued. You will re-blow the gasket if the studs are not properly torqued.



This is a time intensive process, if it is done correctly, it will not have any issues. If the head is just thrown on, the gasket will blow out if you push the engine. Most people will not put this much effort into torquing the head, but it is worth it if you want it to last.