Head stud installation instructions?

[GOT-Torque]

I'm installing some head studs today on my 04 engine without removing the head. Anyone have some instructions, torque values for the various parts that need to be removed? I don't have a manual yet. I assume both pieces of the valve cover need removed? as well as the wires to the injectors?



Has everyone been using around 122 ft lbs as they did with the 2nd gen studs?



Thanks!

 

[jwilliams3]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153762&highlight=arp+stud+install



There is a thread on install linked above.



I wouldnt install without bottom tapping (but thats me).

 

[Bodie]

Dont forget to dremel the valve cover, or you will have a big oil leak.

 

[jwilliams3]

If you bottom tap the block holes theres no need to dremel the valve cover.

 

[GOT-Torque]

I've got a bottoming tap, trying to figure out how to do it with the head still on, the tap is pretty short. I may be able to use a small metric socket to turn it in and out and then use a magnet to retrieve the tap once it is backed out all the way? Then shop vac out the hole.



What do you think?

 

[WCounts]

Don't bottom tap. The threads in your cast iron block can be easily damaged. The studs will screw in deeper than the bolts you take out. Some folks after bottom tapping have pulled the stud out of the block while touquing.

 

[lmills]

Don't bottom tap. The threads in your cast iron block can be easily damaged. The studs will screw in deeper than the bolts you take out. Some folks after bottom tapping have pulled the stud out of the block while touquing.

How in the world is that even possible? You are using the same threads, not making new ones. You are merely going deeper and cutting extra ones which in return gives you more thread contact area and a stronger clamping force. Not to mention the force is now being applied over a larger area on the block.



I have heard of pulling the threads once in a while on 14 MM set ups from too much material being removed. I have also heard of this happening once in a while on 12MM's studs from over-torquing

 

[jwilliams3]

Don't bottom tap. The threads in your cast iron block can be easily damaged

Yeah if you dont know what your doing. If you know how to tap anything its a breeze.



The block bolt hole bosses are plenty deep for more threads and integrity is not an issue.

 

[WCounts]

Yeah if you dont know what your doing. If you know how to tap anything its a breeze.



The block bolt hole bosses are plenty deep for more threads and integrity is not an issue.

With the head on and some one not used to tapping cast iron can be risky. I like to do my own work on my truck like you folks and take pride in doing it right. The threads in the block are deep enough that the studs are only 1/8" above the nuts except for the exhaust side studs that are 1/4" longer for some reason I can't figure out.

Bottom tapping is ok for those who want to do it but if some one is not comfortable with bottom tapping I don't think 1/8-1/4" deeper will make much differance.

 

[GOT-Torque]

I just confirmed on the first three studs I've done so far, that the factory threads are within 1/8" or less of the bottom of the hole, tapping was not necessary. With the stud installed, only a few threads are exposed above the nut. I'll post some pics later...



Here's the pic

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I think this is the one that may require some grinding...

#ad

 

[DerekW]

are you guys simply just installing headstuds and no wire o-rings or fire rings? It sounds like it to me when your talking about just replacing studs one at a time. I thought the factory head gasket was just as much junk as the factory heads studs with 45-48 psi of boost.

 

[Reb.B]

factory gasket is perfect on 03 and above. its multi layered and is good at or slightly above 60 psi with studs

 

[GOT-Torque]

Factory uses bolts not studs. Just replacing the factory bolts with studs allows you to place more clamping force on the factory head gasket.

 

[WCounts]

Clean!!! I guess I'm just used to working with black oil.

Glad to see every thing is going ok for you and you can see where the lower rocker box needs to be notched.

At this point it only takes about 30 mins to adjust your rockers.

 

[GOT-Torque]

It better be clean, the engine is brand new I'm just like you, used to working on things covered with black oil. It was reassuring to find the factory actually used some assembly grease on the necessary spots.



Bottom tapping was not required on any of the holes. The lower valve cover had to be clearanced at the rear a little. I might grind alittle off of each bridge as well. When I bolted it down, it did work but it is hitting the corners of the hex nuts under each bridge.



Now I'm waiting for the SPS62 and exhaust manifold to show up so I can get this thing back together