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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head stud torqe

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo Question

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP-44 cover bolts

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In a stock situation you would go by the book but making your own changes you give priority to the fasteners 1st then the gasket , you should get some info from the manufactures of both .
Did you prep your bolts holes ? - Run a tap through , stud lube , also lube under the washers & bolt heads ?
Sorry that its not a procedure that just answers your ? , but that is what moding/hotroding/custom is about , being that you using the Cometic gasket your on relatively new ground [ our truck & this gasket ] .
How about some details on your truck & what are your plans ?
Why did you not use fire rings ?
 
My truck is a 2000 24v 6sp mach3 injectors comp box twin lift pump system south bend DD3600 plans include maybe a smarty planning on twin turbos later I don't plan on running much over 70psi boost the reason I'm not using fire rings I don't like the dezine I've heard of people blowing out freeze plugs I know say its the water pump but I don't buy it I think the fire rings are leaking and blowing compression in the water jackets The guy who did my machine work has used both he has built two common rail trucks with the MLS gaket with twins and thy're still goin strong I really did'nt want to take a chance on fire rings this is just a street driven trailer puller and maybe a pull here and their O ya I'm rebuilding this engine from top to bottom so its all fresh new valves head and deck with fresh surface
 
If you limit your maximum boost to the mid to low 50's I believe you could get away with studs alone. As long as you don't get to frisky with the engine cold. There are many that would always recommend ringed gaskets for any twins application and probably just as many that will give condtions like those above. I have been running twins for about a year, so far so good. But if your head sees 70 psi then I would guess that you will roll the dice even with a ringed gasket.



I used ARP studs lubed and torqued them to 122 ft-lbm. I did two re-torques / torque checks since they were installed. I did not bottom tap my block threads and I did make sure that none of the studs were bottomed in the block. No problems yet, but typically I keep my boost under 50 psi with the mid 40's being the pressure I try to control to on hard pulls.



Of course, YMMV... ... :eek:



Jim
 
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Thanks for the info guys ya I really don't plan on running much over 50-55psi the first twin setup I'm going to try is small stock HX35 on top and HT3E on bottom I don't plan on running 70psi but the guy that did my machine work said the common rail trucks with this gasket and twins saw 70psi don't think I'll try it I don't need it just makes me feel safe at 55psi I probably won't put on the twins untill I get it good and broke in it would be to hard to keep my foot out of it
 
If you limit your maximum boost to the mid to low 50's I believe you could get away with studs alone. As long as you don't get to frisky with the engine cold. There are many that would always recommend ringed gaskets for any twins application and probably just as many that will give condtions like those above. I have been running twins for about a year, so far so good. But if your head sees 70 psi then I would guess that you will roll the dice even with a ringed gasket.



I used ARP studs lubed and torqued them to 122 ft-lbm. I did two re-torques / torque checks since they were installed. I did not bottom tap my block threads and I did make sure that none of the studs were bottomed in the block. No problems yet, but typically I keep my boost under 50 psi with the mid 40's being the pressure I try to control to on hard pulls.



Of course, YMMV... ... :eek:



Jim

How long did you run your truck before you retorqued and what type of twin setup are you running
 
If you are still looking for some information, you might want to email or call Dusty Hawk @ htstransmissions.com/index.html He as a 24V with twins studded with a cometic. Overhearing some talk at the HTS dyno event, he's running over 70psi. I cant say for sure that he has the 14mm studs though. Good luck.
 
How long did you run your truck before you retorqued and what type of twin setup are you running



The first re-torque I did after just one heat / cool cycle. Basically, after installing the studs I drove home gingerly and grabbed a sandwich. Then I drove back to the shop. After waiting for the block to cool enough that I could comfortably lay my hand on it I re-torqued. For this first re-torqued I backed off each stud one at a time, checked the lube / re-lubed and then re-torqued to 122. Again, IMO it is extremely critical that the stud is not bottomed in the block. I tried to use about a 1/2 a turn of clearance making sure there was no binding of the stud threads.



For the second torque check I did not back off the nut, but I simply checked torques individually. I did that one about 1 - 1 1/2 weeks after the first re-torque.



Pretty sure my valves are in proper adjustment after all that... . :rolleyes:



FWIW I know of one fellow, after installing O-rings / new gasket, had done over 10 re-torques when I last talked to him face to face. If not more by now. Proper re-torques are much more critical when that work is done. Make sure you look into that fully if you decide to go that route.



I am running a DodgeZilla 14cm WG (8 blade compressor) over an S400. I am not sure which S400 it is, but it is whatever Rip sells in his kits. Currently my pop offs are set for about 55 psi, but if you wastegate the bottom turbo that might be better to control maximum boost. Make sure you adequately support the bottom turbo, vice just hanging it on the hot pipe. My set-up works good for me, but I am more EGT minded than all out performance minded.



Not that the all out performance is all that shabby or completely forgotten by me as I still have some flexability in tuning... . Oo.



Jim
 
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Just finished a port/polish/O ring'd head install using 12mm ARP head studs on a 24v. I also installed a cam so after the 10 minute cam break in I did the first re-torque. After 6 or 7 heat cycles I did another one and then again after the same amount of heat cycles. The last re-torque I didnt gain anything... The truck has a few more items that the owner wants me to do so... once that is done and before it goes home... it will get one more. Does it need that many... dont know. . but I dont want him to blow a gasket either.



Rick
 
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