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Head Studs

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Could someone who has placed ARP (or equivalent) head studs give me some feedback on the difficulty of the job and what exactly I have to do to perform it. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I was hoping to do this one myself.



I've read a few post after searching the topic, and it sounds like some grinding of a rocker box (?) needs to be done on a rear stud? How do I do this?



Further, do I need to use anti-seize, or loctite, or grease on the studs?



How do I get / tighten the studs in place (it looks like there is an allen key opening on the top of the stud)



Can I leave the head in place and put in one stud at a time?



What is the sequence of tightening (front to back/side to side), and should I torque in stages (say 60,90 then 120 ft/lbs)?



Sorry for all the questions - I was hoping for a step by step somewhere, but I can't find one. (maybe I shouldn't even attempt this job on my own).



Thanks in advance,



- Jason
 
They are very easy to install. It took me about 1-1/2 - 2 hours to do mine.



yes the rocker box will need to be clearance for the rear stud. after all the studs are in place, if you try to replace the rocker box, you will see where the box "rocks" back and forth from side to side. Where the last stud goes in, there is a tab molded into the rocker box, I filed mine off and test fit the part as I went. It isn't bad to do at all.



as for installing the studs, yes, there is an allen head broached into the top so you can use an allen wrench to run them in. I personally never bottom a stud out. I run them in and back them off 1/6-1/4 of a turn.



For the tightening, do one stud at a time lubing with the ARP lube and tightening the nut to 125 ft lb. s. This way the gasket never looses it's clamp load. Also, the sequence is not that important since technically the head as already been "set. " If the head was off and replaced, that would be a different story.
 
Thanks lmills - sounds like a do-able job.



What exactly do I have to remove before placing the studs?

(valve cover, rocker arms - hopefully not injectors or lines)



Do I lube both sides of the stud?



Thanks for your time,



- Jason
 
only other thing you have to remove is the exhaust rockers. They are in the way of some of the studs. As for the studs, I usually put a very small amount of oil on them, but not too much. Otherwise, the oil can be compressed in the bottom and make it harder to run the stud in.
 
Put them in dry 1 at a time run them down with allen wrench put a washer and nut on to check. You want a few thread left out of the nut, the 6 long ones go down exhaust side of motor.
 
shouldn't you put lock tite on the stud threads? Also dont forget to oil under the head of the nut and washer to achieve proper torque? I cant remember exactly what good race engine builder are putting on the main cap bolts on the crank but I would certainly do the same on the headstuds on my cummins
 
LOL, locktight, hope the gasket never blows. Maybe u should put JB weld on the head gasket too. No lock tight! Just never seize the threads and under the washer and nut, this helps prevent bind up. I used to use a moly lube, but the nickel anti seize works better. Also the long ones go outside on the passenger side and don't forget to cut the recess out of the alluminum lover valve cover because it will hit the top of the stud. Its in the rear. Also on the studs under the rocker arms you need to suck the oil out or just go slow and let the oil escape around the threads when putting the studs in.
 
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