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Heading off rust along door and body seams...

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Here's a convenient and easy method of applying rust preventing solutions to inner panels and seams to control or avoid rust to various body seams. The nicest feature, is that you don't have to remove interior panels to apply, just insert the feed hose into where you want to apply your rustproofing.



The specific solutions used are optional with the owner, and I merely show here the stuff I happen to use as an example - it's a waxy motorcycle chain oil that wicks into tight areas, and leaves a thin waxy coating on surfaces. Obviously, heavy and thick materials will not be effective with this method, and it's primary benefit is down in tight body seams rather than broad and verticle panels - but materials like the stuff I used here, or thinner oily stuff will work well



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The shown small diameter tubing is common drip system stuff - a bit stiffer than needed, there are more flexible ones available, but this is what I had, and it does work fine.



Just attach the tubing to whatever lube or rustproofing stuff you prefer, insert the tubing as deeply as needed for desired coverage, and start the flow of rustproofing as you slowly withdraw the tubing.



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It only takes a few moments, and you're done! Now that we are nearing Fall weather and have warm weather still available, it's a good time to apply this stuff for best penetration...
 
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Great idea Gary, Does this lube dry to a film or remain solvent? We could probably use it in rockers and other areas with access plugs.
 
A good idea. Only problem I see is there's not really any way to evaluate the coverage you're getting.



-Ryan
 
rbattelle said:
A good idea. Only problem I see is there's not really any way to evaluate the coverage you're getting.



-Ryan



Dunno - somehow, that steady trickle of injected liquid out all the drain holes sorta convinces ME! ;) :-laf



Actually, as pointed out in the lead post, this approach is of primary benefit in bottom door and body seams - broader verticle expanses need more labor intensive action - but this method is probably very adequate for most situations.
 
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Gary - K7GLD said:
Dunno - somehow, that steady trickle of injected liquid out all the drain holes sorta convinces ME! ;) :-laf

But that's just an OPINION. Can't we get some DATA. :-laf
 
msperos said:
Great idea Gary, Does this lube dry to a film or remain solvent? We could probably use it in rockers and other areas with access plugs.



It leaves a thin oily/waxy film - looks to do a good and lasting rust prevention job - but here where we live and back in central California where we moved from, rust is really not an issue - I just did mine as a preventive measure, and as a suggestion for members who DO live in rust areas...



One of the side benefits of retirement and lots of extra time... ;) :D
 
nps said:
But that's just an OPINION. Can't we get some DATA. :-laf



Dunno - every time I *provide* data, I get some wiseguy who insists my info goes against all known assumptions, and accuses me of preconceived notions and slanted or poorly derived facts... :rolleyes::-laf:-laf



Gets sorta discouraging sometimes, especially when your primary enjoyment and goal is to HELP others! :rolleyes:
 
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Gary - K7GLD said:
Dunno - every time I *provide* data, I get some wiseguy who insists my info goes against all known assumptions, and accuses me of preconceived notions and slanted or poorly derived facts...



Gets sorta discouraging sometimes, especially when your primary enjoyment and goal is to HELP others! :rolleyes:



Well, If you didn't tell us to clean our engine oil with toilet paper. :-laf



Just kidding. Thanks for the tip, think I will try it myself even though rust isn't too much of a problem out here in terminator territory.



Don't let the wise guys slow you down. For every dork there is a whole bunch more of us who really appreciate your insight and suggestions.



Greg
 
That or something like it might work, however I am skeptical. The reason for my skepticism is I bought a brand new Jeep and had it rust proofed by a major player in the rust proofing market. They sprayed their stuff on all the underside, wheel wells and in the hidden channels. It rusted out 6 years later. :mad:



Supposedly the trick to getting this to work is to start with clean, dry, rust free metal. It's really hard to tell what D/C painted over without stripping it. Welding on sheet metal seems to make it more susceptible to rust. Covering the rust will not stop it; if you are lucky you might slow it down. In the case of my Jeep, the metal may not have been so rust free to begin with.



So, for all my subsequent vehicles all I do is keep them clean. Using this approach even my Scout lasted more than ten years without rusting.



I'm not saying your method is a waste of time, but you gotta get the dirt off, not seal it in. Rather than just spraying blindly around the inside of the door panel; pop the panel off. Clean out the years & miles of silt, mud, and organic debris. Then inspect for signs of corrosion. Remove all signs of any rust or corrosion found. Then spray it with something. Some of the hidden body cavities, like the rocker panels & inside of the tailgate, are hard to inspect.



Just my $. 02,



Peter
 
I have had Rust Check brand applied to my Jeep. It seems to be pretty nice stuff. Its not black tarry stuff like some of the major brands. Its oily and a little residue shows up here and there after each wash.



My Jeep has had a little rust inside the doors since I bought it. Since its my primary snow and salt driver, I wanted to head off any further rusting and this stuff has worked for me. The existing rust turned dark and has completely stopped progressing.
 
i had my doors redone on my 99 and had the body shop put spray on bedliner on them, and all the way around the truck on the bottom of the body panels, and believe it or not it really actually looks pretty good,ive got alot of compliments on how good it looks,and the best part is i dont think i'll ever have to worry about rust again :)
 
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Rust

I live in N. Y State where we use a lot of road salt in winter.

I spray everthing with LPS #3 Heavy Duty rust inhibitor.

It is thin enough to penetrate but leaves a film that wont

wash off. Kodak buys it by the truck load for the tool room.

www.lpslabs.com
 
AHolt said:
I live in N. Y State where we use a lot of road salt in winter.

I spray everthing with LPS #3 Heavy Duty rust inhibitor.

It is thin enough to penetrate but leaves a film that wont

wash off. Kodak buys it by the truck load for the tool room.

www.lpslabs.com

I've just recently begun using LPS 3 in my shop. Good stuff. I may apply it to my truck before winter. The link I posted earlier is a much more robust product by LPS.



Ryan
 
Lps

rbattelle

When you do your truck, do it on a cool day when you wont need to

drive it untill the next day. It will set up quick on a cool day.
 
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