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Headlight switch and relay

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Does anyone have the part numbers for the correct replacement head light switch and the relay that needs to be added to save the switch ? I want to fix my 93 once and for all if I can.

TIA
 
switch and relay

The package I have from Dodge has the following numbers:



1- CAJM8190



234890A

The date on the plastic envelope is 07/21/03

There is a bar code and the letters CAJM8190 are repeated beneath that.



This is a switch kit with relay that Dodge sells for these trucks. I think it is the same as the later model trucks. There is a new switch, a set of replacement wire ends, the plastic block that the wires terminate in, some shrink sleeves and the relay. Somewhere I have a set of instructions to install all this but there are no instructions in the package. Can't say if they willl help as I have not installed the kit. In the life of the truck, the switch has been changed about four times due to D350 lighting and pulling a trailer most of the time. I pulled a seperate (fused) wire to run the trailer lights and have not had trouble since.



James
 
My headlight switch has been replaced several times. I now have individual switches for the headlights and running lights. My switch for the running lights quick a couple of days ago when I was pulling a trailer.
 
Also

None of the components of the kit look particularly substantial. Since you already have the wireing, go to a bigger switch and relay (heavier amperage) and if needed, split the load further. The system is designed for a D100 pickup and really isn't substantial enough for running lights and trailer load that we (some of us) impose on the system. Don't forget the fuse. You can burn your truck. I have seen it done.



James
 
That kit is designed for 2nd gen duallys. It works fine and I have never seen a repeat failure after the kit is installed properly. :)



Bob
 
take heed from 1st gen

they will burn up hate to be a vulture but I have recieved some real hard to find parts thanks to people being careless with electric as a matter of fact the only dodge diesels Ive ever seen in a wrecking yard are burnt ones they always yank the cummins right out for quick big cash then the transmission goes or it might have been weak already as 2 I have found over the years should have been rebuilt before they burnt duh no really they were electrical fires take it from me Ive worked maint. at nukes for years and part of my job was to find exactly what went wrong so they could point a finger at somebody usually it turned out to be at themselves proceedure violations that they let be detoured by band aid type fixes to get her up and running were losing a millon dollars a day was there motivational ploy. In short dont take short cuts wire it like you would wire your own house where you and your children sleep . If you dont know how dont do it ask . I read an article in TDR recentlyon the proper way to make joints with heat shrink over them,all I can say Im glad they never worked at the nuke where I was an instructor/qualifier. No knock on them as they were trying to get the basics across. Its the minor details that people do with auto electric and then leave it that way until it doesnt work anymore then they do it again the same way,I really am amazed that more vehec. dont burn.
 
And coincidently

Just tonight I was driving my low miles 93 back home from the next town over and I thought the thing would surely catch fire. The stench of plastic was heavy. I turned off the dash lights and only used low beam on the headlights and the intensity of stench dropped off. Got home and felt around the light switch and burned the end of a finger. I think I will just run a seperate wire for the entire light system. Split the load about three ways and see if that works.



There was a post not too long ago about how much the dash light load was. I don't know what to 'point a finger at' but I do know that the switch is a cronic problem.



I HAVE seen the retro kit burn a wire on a buddys truck.



Anyone have a better idea, lets hear it.



James
 
Thanks you all ! I might check into the kit or I may stay with individual switches and relays. I've got to look into what kind of a mess is in the dash from the dealer and the previous owner.
 
James look at the attached picture; are the burnt terminals on your headlamp connector B2 & R? If so, the kit listed above will cure your problems. B2/R feed the marker lights on the D350 trucks, this kit moves them off the switch to a relay.



The other thing to help the light switch is to use one of the headlight relay kits from any good auto electric supply. This moves the headlight load to relays, similar to the marker light relay kit.



http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3698&prmenbr=361



http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=PRF-30815
 
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