Archived Headlight Switch Failing

[surfbeetle]

We are traveling with our 1995 Ram 2500 and fifth wheel. The headlight switch has started to fail. The dash lights and the headlights are intermittent. If I wiggle the push/pull switch, the lights change. Currently we have stopped and camped for the night in Albuquerque, New Mexico. I need to get a new switch before we head away from here. In addition to night driving, there are several "safety corridors" that I will need to have lights on during the daytime or possibly get a ticket.

Is this a dealer only item? If so, anyone have a part number? I'm going to look at Napa, O'Reilly's, etc and see if I can find one. Also, I have never replaced the switch, the shop manual shows how to remove the switch housing and also the push/pull handle. Am I correct to assume that I have to reuse the push/pull handle on the new switch? Is there anything else that I should now regarding this process? Also, my truck has the Britebox from Geno's along with the newer style headlamp assemblies which means that I have already taken the draw of the headlamps away from the headlamp switch.
Thanks in advance.

 

[seafish]

Common problem … I remember buying a headlight switch from Napa for my 1993 years ago. Problem was, that one was bad right out of the box also, but they replaced it and the second one was good to go. IIRC, you do use the pull handle from the old one.

 

[surfbeetle]

Okay, I did a search on oreillyauto.com and found this page. There are four results, two in the $20 range from two different vendors and two more in the $70 range. The more expensive ones look like they have the wiring pigtail included. I don't think I need the wiring, correct?

 

[surfbeetle]

Thanks seafish for the info. I'm going to search tomorrow to see who has it in stock and see what I can do. You're help is very appreciated.

 

[seafish]

Can't imagine how you would need the pigtail, but can't really know for sure until you pull yours (in their parking lot, right??)

 

[Bill Stockard]

IIRC, there was a recall on the light switch covering early 2nd gen dual rear wheel trucks which involved replacing the light switch and the wiring harness pigtails and may have included relays. The relay part, I'm not clear on... lots of water under the bridge since then. The recall was done on my formerly owned '97CTD 3500 DRW. If you could find the old recall, you could possibly still purchase the replacement parts that were in that recall.

Bill

 

[BigPapa]

I've run a switch from O'Reilly in both my trucks and had to replace the connector on the '95. You'll have no problems telling if you need to replace the connector or not. If you can remove the dash bezel you'll have no problem replacing it.

 

[mwilson]

I have changed three of these 2nd Gen switches over the years. Each one had a couple of burnt wires and melted spots on the connector.

I would recommend that you purchase two switches, one with pigtail and one without. Then you are ready to do battle no matter what happens. Return the unused switch when you are finished.

I wised up the last time and did the following...

Two of the wire ends were badly melted. I made note of each wire position in the existing plug and then released all of the terminals from both the new and old plug. Repaired / spliced the two damaged wires with the matching wires from the new pigtail and then inserted all terminals into the new plug.
If you splice every wire then you have a larger gob of wire to deal with when you put the switch back in the dash.

 

[GAmes]

While you are in there. If you have access to a drill put 5 or 6 holes in the top of the duct that is below the switch while the bezel is removed. There isn't any air circulating up there, so the switches overheat and fail. especially if you drive with the dash lights dimmed. The switch I have has been in there for at least 500k miles.

 

[seafish]

While you are in there. If you have access to a drill put 5 or 6 holes in the top of the duct that is below the switch while the bezel is removed. There isn't any air circulating up there, so the switches overheat and fail. especially if you drive with the dash lights dimmed. The switch I have has been in there for at least 500k miles.

That's definitely a good idea…I believe that the heat buildup is from the variable resistors used in the dimming circuit…the more you dim, the more heat is generated by the resistors.

 

[GAmes]

I believe that the heat buildup is from the variable resistors used in the dimming circuit…the more you dim, the more heat is generated by the resistors.

I found that to be true. The proof is touching the top of the dash after driving at night for awhile. Another thing that decreased the heat was switching to led tail lights and all led marker lights, including the license plate lights (no more melted covers too). The headlights are on relays, one each for high & low beams.

 

[surfbeetle]

thanks everyone I stopped at O'Reillys bought a new switch installed it looks like we're going to be good to go as far as the mods off to do that when I get home